Power hammers

Thank you. So I was thinking today about HP efficiency. Would you say a press or hammer is more efficient in moving metal per HP. I think that came out wrong. I think what I'm asking is this. Does a 5HP press move metal 5 times faster then say a 1HP hammer. It seams like the big difference between the two is the press sucks heat out and the hammers actually put heat back into the work. Looking around on YouTube there are a bunch of Home build hammers and some seam to have a hard time doing much work and others seam to really move steel but both are simaler weight hammers. I love the idea of build a hammer but feal overwhelmed with the design. I see how thy work but don't understand them enough to just design one and hope it works good. It seams like there is much more to it then moving a weight up and down fast. The only reason I was thinking clay tire hammer was becaus it seams like a proven design that preforms well. But I don't know how it stacks up agents other home designes out there.

I highly recommend, even if you're a competent machine builder or fabricator, to everyone; buy your first hammer, and buy one that's "factory" made.

Every type of hammer, be it mechanical, pneumatic utility, or pneumatic self contained, have design aspects, that while not complicated, are difficult to wrap your head around, typically, for a while, until you've used them enough for your subconscious brain to compute their relation to the actual relationships of the running of the machine, and it's output.

In the case of pneumatic hammer controls, they can seem much simpler than they are, and the finite range of proper function, requires understanding it's nuance. Even having half an inch of extra movement in one item, can cause it to simply not reciprocate.



Also, when considering the "work" of each type of machine, it's not a simple relationship. All presses and hammers aren't created equal, and one can do significantly more work in a certain range of thickness, than another. A 75lb hammer may only be able to barely move a piece of 4" thick square stock, and take half a dozen heats to reduce the thickness to the point of starting to be efficient, where as a 25ton press can reduce it to half it's thickness in a heat. However, below a certain point, the press hardly moves it, and the hammer does significantly faster, the press may have also deformed the work significantly worse in the center of the billet while reducing that much thickness that quickly.

On the other hand, a very fast single stage press will be much more efficient, and capable of going to significantly better thinness, however, requires lots of HP, 10hp being roughly the minimum for efficient work.



The clay spencer hammer IMO is a great design for general small forging. it'll forge any size knife or blade (sword whatever) that could ever reasonably be wielded by a human, and great for doing general small damascus billets, big enough to make those blades. They won't however stand up to serious damascus work, but would be a fine complement to a dual stage press, for doing medium sized billets, and compensating for the way the press moves metal, once you get down to 1" or below thickness.

It's a great hammer to use for most of your work, while you decide if you need another bigger hammer for pounding billets.

Thing is, most standard patterns, especially the ones oriented, on the outsides of the bar, don't have much benefit from making massive billets, as the loss is somewhat minimal and standard. i.e. grind the outside to get past the scale, cut the ends off, and restack. On mosaic and bar end patterns however, the losses depending on the number of restacks can be up to 70%+ on complicated patterns, where the larger the billet is, the more you can mitigate loss, because a certain percentage of each restack is going to be lost. It's the same components as standard patterns, but exacerbated by having to grind deeper, restack more often, and in more complicated ways, plus the movement of the hammer vs press of the core and outside of the billet, becomes more critical, if you're attempting to control the pattern manipulation/distortion.


So it ultimately depends on what you end up doing, and needing to accomplish that. In a perfect world, we'd all have 2 of everything for ultimately utility, but I'd encourage everyone to just get started where they can, and learn the limitations of that equipment and process, then move on. Unfortunately, what typically happens is; someone gets something, feels obligated to "own it", and goes around telling everyone whatever they have is what everyone else needs, because they have it, and it's great. Or the opposite.

Regardless, building a press, and a tire hammer, or acquiring one or both, will get you a good serious start with damascus. On the other hand, having just a press, wont help you much forging blades, unless all you make are monster sized sharpened crowbars. You can however, forge to your heart's content, and make all sorts of nice patterns in the sizes needed for blade work, and bigger, with just a tire hammer.
 
The reason that I mentioned a wide flat bottom and slightly beveled top die was that looks like what guys like Murray Carter are using on their Japanese mechanical hammers to spread that steel out very quickly. Ideal for kitchen knives that need to get wide and thin. I e-mailed Ken Zitur and asked about dies and they nice lady said that they currently ship the hammers with flat dies, but they could customize.

One radiused and one flat won't actually move metal faster than two radiused dies, it will manipulate the pattern in a certain way, and offer some screwy methodology of semi-planishing or drawing.

My buddy Jason Knight used to (maybe still does) have a little giant with mis-matched top and bottom dies similar to this, not sure if by design or not, and I always attributed that, along with the questionable tightness of that hammer, with the wonderful chatoyance he'd always get with his randoms. It introduces a lot of micro-chaos (activity) into the layers, which is what shows all that shimmer typically.

Personally, if I had to have one set of dies for doing damascus work, and it's what I used for years, is a long set of combo-dies, flat with an aggressive V. The V's draw, and put great activity into the outside bar patterns, and the flats can planish and square nicely. Although some care has to be taken to keep the guides tight and compensate for rhombus-ing (going out of square) when the stacks are larger, by evenly rotating the billet and forging equally on opposing sides.


My friend's MZ75 is coming with the aforementioned type of dies, directly from Ken.
 
Thank you, that helped a lot. I don't have the coin to buy a power hammer hence the building. Sounds like building a proven design like clays tire hammer is the way to get started if you can't buy a professionally built hammer.
 
Thank you, that helped a lot. I don't have the coin to buy a power hammer hence the building. Sounds like building a proven design like clays tire hammer is the way to get started if you can't buy a professionally built hammer.

Paid less than $1k for my first hammer, maybe 7 or 8 years ago. I got my 150lb Bradley with a litereal ton, of dies, for less than 5k, and made payments. If you're obsessed and need it, patient, but not desperate, it'll play out bruv.

The CSPH is a great option if you get impatient (justifiably) though. I don't know if they're still doing build parties, but if I heard of one pop up near me, I'd join. Hard to beat, especially when someone else is handling the logistics.
 
Around here people want so much for so little. Salem seams to find deals be every time I find one thy want wayyo much. Last one I saw was actually local here in my town. 25lb little giant for like $5k-$6k.
 
lol it's still for sale what do you know.

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That is correct. I run mild drawing dies on it- not enough power to really draw with flat dies, and strikes a good balance between drawing ability and controllable shaping.
 
Funny, because I used to read the NWBA forums and always be PISSED at some the great deals I'd see up that way.

Hell I trolling CL when I was up in Seattle the other week, trying to figure out how to drag shit home with me. :p

Usually, there's a certain time of year, in each geographic region, where great deals pop up. Also, bear in mind that asking price is never the paying price. If someone lists a "firm" price, that's not great, I ignore it. More than have of my equipment I've gotten for half the asking price. I am however, never rude about it, and usually, before showing up in person, I ask someone how much latitude they have in price, and try to give them an idea of what I'm working with.

I'd hate to piss someone off by low-balling them after wasting their time. On the other hand, I won't hesitate to tell a seller, they're crazy, on the phone, when they clearly think their scrap steel is gold.


Next time I'm up that way I'll stop in if you guys want a visitor. My best friend lives there, and I usually scoot up there for a week or two to relax, a couple times a year. I'd love to move to the area, just $$$.

Edit: I understand it's a large state, and I didn't map your towns, but I'm usually on my own time with a rental. Been meaning to stop in and see Dave L., but did hang out with Hazel last year when I was there.
 
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Every once in a while there are deals here. Hell, there was a belt-drive Nazel 3B for $8K about a year ago... but mostly it's tough here. Used machine shop equipment is often priced in a particularly hostile fashion.
Come on by any time brother, you're always welcome at my shop. Hell with advance notice we could get JT and some other dudes too and have a hammer-in!
 
Every once in a while there are deals here. Hell, there was a belt-drive Nazel 3B for $8K about a year ago... but mostly it's tough here. Used machine shop equipment is often priced in a particularly hostile fashion.
Come on by any time brother, you're always welcome at my shop. Hell with advance notice we could get JT and some other dudes too and have a hammer-in!

Cool, be back in spring for sure, and we'll plan on it.
 
Now I'm kinda thinking of going with a tire hammer with a brake. Looks like an excellent balance between capability, control, ease of building and cost.
 
Note the "if you like forge and fire" reference in the Craigslist ad. It's Seattle, so you wonder if the seller is thinking that someone will overpay and use it as douchey decor in their new blacksmith themed organic coffee/kombucha bar? :rolleyes:[/QUOTE]
 
"Ummmm my blacksmith themed kmbucha bar was cool BEFORE forged in fire so..." <adjusts saggy, skinny jeans and flips back flock of seagulls hair doo >
 
Now I'm kinda thinking of going with a tire hammer with a brake. Looks like an excellent balance between capability, control, ease of building and cost.

Want to team up on the build. I got the plans on order, he is emailing me a PDF. Plan is to re draw everything in solid works.
 
Ouch, I just call the metal suplyer and for a 6"x36" chunk of round thy wanted just under a grand, like $980. Seams a bit steep don't it? I also asked about 6"x1" bar and for 6 36" long it's just over $700. But that's more weight then a 6" round
 
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That's pretty high. If shipping wouldn't kill it I could supply you for significantly less. My 1000lb anvil will be about $100.

But I'm happy to swap ideas back and forth. I design around the capabilities I have so what's easy for me may not make sense for you but the general idea will be the same.

My biggest question is how the brake works. Its either stupidly simple, a plate on the opposite of the motor that see saws against the tire, or its something more sophisticated I can't discern from videos and pictures.
 
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