In a survival situation, I'd rather have a chopper. Either my Junglas or a 12-16 inch full tang hawk.
Sure, its all fine and dandy having a ESEE5 or some Woodlore derivative, but in a "survival situation", my worry would be more for the gross tasks and less for the fine (hopefully I still retained my pocket knife...). I always make sure I have my winkler or junglas on my hip on in my daypack.
It has been my experience that most "survival situations" don't depend on any particular knife to solve them. "Survival knife", IMHO, is a marketing term. And it is generally used on a wide variety of knife sizes and designs.
(B)ut if you're looking for a belt knife, anything in the 4-6 inch range will do you well. You'll start seeing what people generally like/want in a blade.
I agree. Once you go beyond those sizes, generally, the (sheathed) knife is an impediment to movement in both length and weight. The smaller knives are not so prone to catch on things, pull your pants down or make sitting difficult.
Me?
NO SERRATIONS
Serrations have their place, as do most knife features. I generally don't care for a serrated blade EXCEPT... when cutting steak or on the river where rope entanglement is a possibility. I carry a small, lightweight single blade linerlock serrated knife in my PFD pocket for this.
4-5 inch CUTTING edge
3/32-6/36in thick
Nice to have a 90deg spine but no big deal if it doesn't.
Simple steel: 1095/5160/52100/O1 etc
As a matter of personal preference I agree with all of this. However I understand that many people do not. FOr reasons of personal prejudices of from their own experiences.
Scandi grind (ease of field maintenance), but others prefer saber
full tang (granted moras seem to have quite the devoted following)
IMHO, a full plain grind isn't any harder to maintain in the field than any other. It just so happens that my favorite has a sabre grind. I own flat grind variants of the same pattern but keep gravitating back to the sabre. The same with full tang. My favorite pattern has full tang construction and I have not broken one in many years of use.
Contoured handle. I prefer canvas micarta and stabilized wood.
I agree in part. A contoured (ergonomic) handle shape from a material which is durable and temperature/moisture stable is a good thing. It just so happens that my favorite has a serpentine handle which indexes the blade perfectly for me and the texture provides a sure grip in all conditions.
It was a fairly expensive journey to get to my"perfect" knife and ultimately ended up with the woodlore variants. Ultimately, its preference and nothing can change that. Those that ask usually aren't looking to spend a whole lot of money which is why I recommend Moras and the Condor Bushlore. Little more with the ESEE 4, TOPS BOB, and some nicer ones like LT Wright and Battle Horse
Expensive? I have a few hundred fixed blade outdoors knives, the earliest dating to around 1911. In all my research of what was popular last century and this, I've not found a blade I prefer over my favorite circa 1966. But I have tried most of the others and they would do.
Heck, look at what a lot of the popular TV stars liked. Les is usually seen with a walmart special (though he has his Helle), Lundin loves Moras. Mors loves moras and his Skookum. Ray has his Woodlore. Dave Canterbury has his BHK trade knives. Then theres Bear...with that ugly Bayley blade (though I'm not entirely sure he even cares that much)
I personally make it a point to ignore the opinions of celebrities. Often as not their touted preferences are based upon sponsorships by manufacturers.
Me? I dislike the sharpened prybar like the ESEE 5 (overweight and lack finesse) and the blades that are 6-9inches never endeared themselves to me (too big for fine tasks and too small for chopping). That said, there are always those THAT NEED TO QUIT LIKING THINGS THAT I DON'T LIKE!!!!.