Precautions using pre-ban ivory?

I'll discuss with the client. He was pretty particular how he wanted to use it. He may just want to roll the dice.
 
Not all is lost I think. You can use it as spacer material right? Its a ton more work but with pins like a take down bowie you could get segments in there.
 
Hre is my suggestion:
Put a front guard and a rear bolster on the tang. Put a liner of .060" G-10 on the ivory, glued on with G-flex. After curing completely, cut it to make a matching pair of scales. Fit the ivory between the guard/bolster.
 
The orig plan was to use the ivory in the first half of the scale and rosewood on the other half. Nickel silver spacer between. The rosewood would be at the tail end.
 
Here's an idea, if you're wanting the Rosewood in the aft part of handle, just reverse. I made this chef's knife for the wife using Ebony for the front part, Mammoth Ivory spacer with a spalted pecan that was cut from in front of house. The mosaic pin is homebrew and used a black pin for the other part of handle for contrast.

Inside_Handle-s_zpsnir2t8rl.jpg


I never can decide which is best for the spacer to be angled aft or toward front. Wife chose this, so that's how I made rest of her knives.

Ken H>
 
JeridJohnson said:
The orig plan was to use the ivory in the first half of the scale and rosewood on the other half. Nickel silver spacer between. The rosewood would be at the tail end.
Click to expand...

That would work fine with a liner glued to the assembly. Ken's handle will also work well with that slice. I have used cross-cut slices for scales before and had good results, but there is always a chance of it splitting over time or if heated too much in grinding. Just like mammoth tooth, an attached liner under it is almost a necessity. G-flex is a good resin for this type of task.

When sanding the handle and in finishing, pay particular attention that the direction of the abrasives goes from ivory to metal. If done the other way, the metal swarf will stain the ivory. When polishing the metal, tape off the ivory to prevent any contamination. The tough green tape is great for this.
 
out of curiosity, how does using a liner differ than simply attaching to the tang?

Thanks for all the recommendations. I appreciate it.
 
It limits warp and cracking a lot on a piece cut across the grain. Without a liner, a crack or split would be quite likely...either in assembly or later on with aging.
 
The bolster and pommel also help to prevent cracking - perhaps a few hidden pins would also help?
 
In case you were wondering how this project turned out. Went with the G-Flex epoxy and no liner.. Fingers crossed ;-)

Ground with sharp belts and did not let it get hot. Used my milling machine to mill the joint ends of the ivory where it butts up to the guard and spacer.

Note: When making the sheath and wet fitting the knife in.. TAPE UP THE IVORY!! LOL.. It took on some dye. Thank goodness I was able to sand it off with some 600 grit.

Pretty nerve racking working with something you cant replace..

Finished project pics in the gallery: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ory-and-rosewood-burl?p=15183787#post15183787
 
Jerid - I looked at the photos - you did a good job! Congrats on a job well done.

Ken H>
 
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