press motor went POP!

Kentucky

Kentucky

Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
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Our practically brand new press lost the motor today:mad: We bought it in Nov/Dec but it has probably has about 2 hours of actual run time on it overall because we bought it before the new shop was finished..Just had tunred it on, been running for about a minute when we heard a loud sound come from the motor area, it shut off(tripped the breaker) and the ram just dropped..Tripped the breaker back on and nothing. Checked the switch and power, everything. has to be something in the motor I guess :confused: Good electrical, run exactly as we were told By Al so I guess it was just a bad motor from the factory? Im sure Al will make it right since its pretty much brand new but damned if a piece of equipment always goes down right when you really,really need it :grumpy:
 
Man I hate when ship happens like that. By chance is it a single phase motor? IF so it probably has capacitors (can like devices) mounted on the outside of the motor. Depending on motor can have one, two or several. Some are start caps and some run caps. IF you have access to a electrician buddy he can check with any decent meter that does capacitor check ( or a meter you have may have cap check setting) . Sometimes a visual problem is obvious such as distorted can, blown off top or crowned, leaking oil etc.
 
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UPDATE: well I don't think its the motor. I tried earlier but it would not reset, now it will. I tried it and nothing turned so I got some help and took the motor loose from the pump..The motor comes on and turns fine loose from the pump..So maybe something in the pump is broke and cant turn? causing the motor to overload for a moment and pop the breaker..
What do you all think?
 
Is it a single phase motor? Again if single phase and it uses a capacitor for start it will sometimes start with no load or by helping it to start by nudging shaft or pulley carefully with your foot if the start capacitor has failed.
 
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It is single phase and has two capacitors on the side.. you may be right, it could still be the capacitor and the motor running but not able to turn the pump.
 
On a side note, I don't recommend, but a redneck dangerous way to check to see if a motor can start with a load is to put the sole of your boot, part between heal and tread, on the shaft while balancing most of your weight on the your other leg and apply power to motor. It should be able to start with this slight weight or pressure applied to it.
 
I was just setting here thinking of a way to apply pressure with the start. Its a 5 horse so your boot idea sounds better than my idea of trying to hold on to it :D (Im kidding)
 
Most start caps have a lower MFD ratings lower than run caps. They are rated in voltages and MFD microfarads any possible way you have some older motors on other equip around that has similar cap on it that you can borrow? Not every one stocks or keeps capacitors on hand but some HVAC have some but Granger can usually order. Rather cheap less than $20.
 
Boot trick is not really that dangerous just had to say that never knowing what someone will read into it. As I hit post I could see some dude saying here hold my beer as he stands on the shaft with all his weight on one leg!
 
I have some but nothing that size I can salvage off of. There happens to be a motor repair shop very close to me, I may take it there Monday and see if they can tell me if the capacitor is bad..Least then Ill know for sure.
 
A lot of electric meters now adays have capacitor check built into them. If you have a meter with UF setting or something that looks similar to a PIE sign on it your in luck. Just hook leads to capacitor and meter may start by saying DIscharge then read out MFD's of cap or say open. By now you probably think I'm a red neck ( not that there is any thing wrong with that) but another way to check is to apply 110 volts to both terminals of a cap for a few seconds. Remover 110 power. With a INSULATED handle screw driver short between terminals on cap. It should spark. Maybe I'm just showing my age as when I started in the electrical world years ago we didn't have all these fancy digital meters we have at our disposal now adays! lol
 
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That's likely a bad sign. You should be able to spin the pump fairly easy as there is very low load.
Sounds like it's time to get a bit of oil on the floor pulling the pump apart to see what failed.

Pictures might be good to see what kind of pump and press you are dealing with if you need more help.
 
I'd take the cap cover off and check each cap for any swelling or burn marks. Could be one of the two let the magic smoke out. Most DMMs, even the cheap ones now days, have a capacitor setting. Very easy to check.
 
Good question concerning the pump though. Not real familiar with hydraulic pumps but yes I'd think you should be able to turn by hand. The only reason I didn't mention is I have no experience with hydraulics. But if it's similar to a air compressor there's a unloader valve that lets pressure off the air compressor motor before the next start up. Imagine a air compressor pumping up pressure to 120 psi. It shuts off. You hear a blast of air at the compressor, that is the unloader valve taking the pressure off the air compressor so it can start the next time with no load but at the same time it KEEPS air pressure in tank and system. What doesn't sound right is OP said when popped sound occurred ram dropped. You would think there would be some kind of safety device to prevent that! Maybe same device that lets motor start with no load. Hopefully someone familiar with hydraulics will come along and help or explain.
 
If the pump won't turn when it's uncoupled from the motor then I'd say something bad happened inside the pump. I've worked on a good many oil/hydraulic systems in the power generation industry. I've seen small pieces of hydro lines stuck in a pump before. Apparently it was inside the line once it was installed and after flowing for a while destroyed the pump. Also have seen a pump impeller blow a chunk of blade off and get jammed up in it. Take a SMALL pipe wrench and see if you can get it to move with some extra leverage, but go the opposite of the motor rotation first. If something is in there this may dislodge it. Then you can tear it apart and see what actually happened.
 
yea, there is no turning it by hand. Ill try with a bit of leverage today. I know it will have to come off regardless but im hoping the manufacturer replaces it for me..
 
Using leverage might make a simple problem worse. You'll need to open it to see why it's stuck. With a bit of good fortune you might just find a broken off pipe thread holding it up or something else simple that didn't do major damage.

Even if you could free it with a wrench you'll need to open it because you need to find out what's in that line to cause this in the first place.
 
Im going to call the manufacturer tomorrow. I expect him to send me a new one and he may want the old one back for credit. Ill wait and see before I take it off. Its stuck for sure..Im not blaming them either, I can not hold them responsible to a faulty pump..
Of course this happened at the perfect time, my wife had 5 axe-head blocks heating up in the forge to work on and didn't even get started on the first..You all know how it is, customers don't understand the wait for broken machinery..
 
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