Preventing Rust on Carbon Backsprings: Recommendations?

AFAustin

AFAustin

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What is the best way to prevent rust deep inside a carbon folder on the backsprings? I am thinking a dry lube, applied with a spray can and straw, would do the trick, and being dry it wouldn't be such a lint magnet.

Am I thinking right? If so, can anyone recommend a good product (hopefully one that is safe for food prep)? If not, what is a better solution?

Thanks,

Andrew
 
I wouldn't worry about it too much. Although a few of mine have developed patina and the occassional spots on the springs, they don't seem any the worse for wear. Just place a few drops of oil on the springs once in a while and you should be good to go.

- Christian
 
kamagong said:
I wouldn't worry about it too much. Although a few of mine have developed patina and the occassional spots on the springs, they don't seem any the worse for wear. Just place a few drops of oil on the springs once in a while and you should be good to go.

- Christian
Click to expand...

I concur. ;) There are more important things to worry about.
 
Well, sorry if this is a trivial subject, but let me explain where I'm coming from. Before recently getting interested in traditionals, my knife experience had been mainly with fixed blades and stainless folders. I try to take good care of my knives, and neither of those groups was hard to keep rust free.

Now that I have acquired, sharpened, and used a few traditionals with carbon steel, I can see why "good ole 1095" has so many fans. I really have enjoyed the great cutting edge of the blades, and how easy they are to touch up. At the same time, I see carbon traditionals pictured here, whether for sale or otherwise, and the owners point out the rust spots, minor pitting, etc. Usually these seem to be very knowledgeable traditional guys, which leads me to believe that avoiding rust on carbon folders must be a real trick.

So, I 'd like to keep my carbon knives in excellent shape and avoid all that. The tricky part seems to me to be the inside backspring, and that's where I'd like some help. A while back, ranchmanben brought up this subject from a different angle, and mentioned that a little oil on the backspring attracted a bunch of lint. I said it wasn't a problem for me, but I think I just hadn't given that lint enough time to build up. :D

I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's found a good, cheap, and easy solution. I read somewhere that Remington Dri-Lube works pretty well, so if anyone knows, please chime in.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
Andrew, the best tip I got was to get a book of matches, tear a match out and use the non business end to clean out the lint. I do the every so often now and it works great. I use wd40 because it's always handy and has helped with the rust issue.
 
Sometimes, when changing to something very different than what you are used to, it takes a while to develop a mentality for it. Traditional pocket knives are a different place in your head.

I just let the knife age. You can go nuts trying to keep it new looking, but it's not worth it. The thing about old carbon knives, is that they age. They develop a patina, and the back springs may get some spots. It won't hurt anything, the knife is not going away. I'll wipe the blades off daily, and that will keep it from rusting under most conditions. If the back springs age a little, I just look at it like the knife is aging along with me. I've got some rust spots myself, so I don't hold it against the knife. Pitting is easy to keep from happening, but you can't stop it from getting a patina, and you shouldn't. A patina will help keep rust away if you let it happen. Same for springs. JUst wipe it out now and then, maybe once a day of carried regularly, and that's it. I'll fold up an edge of my bandana and wipe out the inside with all the blades open. A tiny bit of oil on the pivot points now and then.

Carl.
 
AFAustin said:
So, I 'd like to keep my carbon knives in excellent shape and avoid all that. The tricky part seems to me to be the inside backspring, and that's where I'd like some help.
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No one said that this is a trivial subject, but it is nothing to worry about, at least when it comes to users. If you use a carbon steel knife it'll get a patina, period. Nothing you can do about it. Keep it oiled and dry it as soon as you can if you get it wet. On the other hand, if you have a bunch of safe queens, apply a light coat of oil and store in a dry place. Check up on it occassionally and reapply the oil when it dries out.

When people point out rust on "For Sale" folders, they do so in the interest of full disclosure. It's dishonest to represent a knife's condition as being better than it actually is.

Lint isn't a problem either. A minor annoyance at most. Blow it out if it bothers you, but it doesn't damage a knife one bit.

- Christian
 
Gentlemen, thank you for your comments, which I have read and which are helpful, both in substance and in perspective.

I guess I was just hoping that there is some great dry lube I could spray inside on the backspring and be innoculated. If not, as you suggest, I can live with it, and I imagine the world will keep turning. ;)

Thanks again.

Andrew
 
Like the others have said: just keep 'em dry, somewhat clean & oiled and enjoy using 'em. Besides, who looks at the insides of their knives anyway?:p:D;)

Much like with carbon blades, there's just something pleasing about that warm grey patina that develops and changes over time and a few specks here and there (inside or out) are nothing to really worry about and just come with the territory.

IMG_1965-2-1.jpg
 
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As the fellas have said, use oil, not dry lube in order to prevent rust.
Iron requires moisture and oxygen in order for the chemical reaction that we call rust to occur. So one of the best ways to keep iron from rusting is a layer of oil. It is hydrophobic (repels water) and forms a barrier to air. Dry lubes lubricate, but do not necessarily form a barrier to water and air.
 
A Q-Tip with a very small amount of mineral oil cleans the lint and leaves some oil, all in one fell swoop
 
Get a pipe-cleaner in there, fetches out most of the stuff very efficiently.

Then try a product called Rust Free from A.G.Russell, apply it sparingly with that pipe-cleaner or whatever, you should not get it on bone or stag too much but if you are careful it is an excellent protection.

When I get a new Traditional, I wash them through with warm water then dry it and a blast of WD-40 keeps the insides wholesome.....
 
ranchmanben said:
Andrew, the best tip I got was to get a book of matches, tear a match out and use the non business end to clean out the lint. I do the every so often now and it works great. I use wd40 because it's always handy and has helped with the rust issue.
Click to expand...

You can also use that non business end to apply a bit of mineral oil to the inside of the backspring. A "popsicle" or "kraft" stick works well too for various knife cleaning operations.

Ed J
 
Renaissance Wax.

My KHnutbuster came with a D2 backspring and developed several rust spots on the inside of backspring in about a month. I think the backsprings are not hardned has hard as the blade, and will rust more easy than the blade. I'll stick with SS backsprings in the future.

Kerry told me to use leather with red jewelers rouge to remove the rust, and then apply Renaissance wax.
I still haven't done it yet, but will sooner or later.
 
Mineral oil works well. It's simple, cheap and readily available. Just a light touch of it, applied with a Q-tip or something similar that'll get down into the blade well. Make sure the springs are clean & dry before applying it.
 
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