Preventing Rust on Carbon Backsprings: Recommendations?

Andrew, I agree with you that the springs can be a legitimate problem that goes beyond just aesthetics, particularly when you have a tight knife. I found for example, that on my 2011 forum knife the screw driver blade has remained very tight and vulnerable to seizing from slightest moisture despite constant use, not due to the pivot, but due to the SIDES of the spring seizing. My own solution has been to thoroughly degrease (carb cleaner and wd40) , and then apply dry lube while working the blade.
 
I tried most of the fancy products. What I have found is a drop of mineral oil will go a long way. A pipe cleaner once in a while to remove lint and gunk.

I think it is important to keep it free from lint. Lint can hold moisture. Thats the only way I have seen the inside of my backsprings rust actually.

Pipe cleaners and mineral oil is the best advice I can give. Once it has a patina it will be much easier to maintain.

Also, the advice Carl gives...about cleaning your britches with the pockets inside out :)

Don't know why I never thought of it. It works.
 
Another vote for the mineral oil.......non toxic, inexpensive and relatively tenacious(sticks on there for a while). Also works well to keep your natural handle materials from drying out and shrinking. All my knives get a regular wipe down with MO.
Darcy:)
 
Thanks for all the excellent suggestions. I like simple, and have long used mineral oil for knives.

I'm thinking a periodic wipe off of the interior and springs with rubbing alcohol, to get the lint and gunk off, followed by a light coat of m.o.---sound right?

Andrew
 
I don't even do a degreaser, but it couldn't hurt IMO. Just don't spill acetone or harsh degreasers on natural material :)
 
AFAustin said:
Thanks for all the excellent suggestions. I like simple, and have long used mineral oil for knives.

I'm thinking a periodic wipe off of the interior and springs with rubbing alcohol, to get the lint and gunk off, followed by a light coat of m.o.---sound right?

Andrew
Click to expand...

I just cleaned up a Schrade-Walden 25OT Folding Hunter a few days ago. I had literally kept the thing immersed in mineral oil for a while, in a zip-loc bag, after I'd bought it. Gave it a bath in hot water & dish soap, rinsed in hot water, then dried as much as possible by hand. Followed that with some isopropyl alcohol (91%) poured into the blade well & pivot, to flush out remaining moisture. Let everything dry again, then applied lube (mineral oil) sparingly into the pivot, and lightly wiped along the springs. That has worked well for me.

So, in a nutshell, I think your plan is good. :)
 
Or buy a new Case knife with CV steel. They all have stainless backsprings.

-- Mark
 
Sorry to repeat but either Q tips & mineral oil (older knife) or or hot, hot water/dry & tuf glide (new knife). Works for me.

Tom
 
I clean up really rusted old knives with the procedure David outlined above. Works a charm. Just checked out an old Kamp King I used that procedure on ( it was a mess and was rusted shut), and it still looks wonderful. No rust at all any more and its been a month.
 
I put a drop of Tuf-Glide on the inside of the spring and roll that drop up and down the spring until it is all covered. Wipe off what has seeped through to the outside and leave the insides to dry off on its own. This has always worked for me.
 
I really appreciate all the suggestions. The one thing that has me confused is: conventional oil (mineral, etc.) vs. dry lube (Tuf Glide, etc.). Knarfeng said early in this thread that dry lubes don't prevent rust. They claim to do so, and would seem to have the advantages of staying put longer and not attracting lint. But, if they don't prevent rust, they wouldn't serve the purpose. Maybe they also have other downsides I'm not aware of.

So, I would much appreciate thoughts on the "wet lube vs. dry lube" issue.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
I use Balistol for all carbon blades,and wood,and leather(it may darken leather and wood but i don't mind that),it is food safe, doesn't coagulate,it can be used for minor wounds desinfection...etc
 
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AFAustin said:
I really appreciate all the suggestions. The one thing that has me confused is: conventional oil (mineral, etc.) vs. dry lube (Tuf Glide, etc.). Knarfeng said early in this thread that dry lubes don't prevent rust. They claim to do so, and would seem to have the advantages of staying put longer and not attracting lint. But, if they don't prevent rust, they wouldn't serve the purpose. Maybe they also have other downsides I'm not aware of.

So, I would much appreciate thoughts on the "wet lube vs. dry lube" issue.

Thanks,

Andrew
Click to expand...

Some dry lubes may be rust preventative. You'd have to check the individual claims of the dry lube in question, but I know of at least some which are purely lubricants and make no claims for rust resistance.
 
Thanks, knarfeng, for the clarification.

I'm still wondering about the pros and cons of oil vs. dry lube, though.

That may be need to be the subject of another thread.

Andrew
 
@rinos: Ballistol is a great choice for everything that has to be oiled or whatever.

BTW: Ballistol is produced just about 60 kilometres away from where I life. Great oil...

That would also be my choice for preventing rust on everything. We also use it for our firearms, even inside the weapon. Some guys here also use it as a medicine for wounds or take a little cup for any stomache pain or whatever (never tried it out, and don´t want to do this).

Kind regards
Andi
 
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