Prevention of Rust Under Handle Slabs on 3V

jdk1

jdk1

Joined
Apr 21, 2010
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I saw this question on a review thread, but I never saw any opinions on it, so I’ll bring it up here for the brain trust to comment on.

Does anyone treat/coat the tang under the scales? I have a 4.1 in 3V coming. I know it’s not 1095, but can rust. I also understand Guy has received one or two back with rust around the cutouts. I’d rather not remove the scales on a regular basis as it increases the chance of stripping a thread or accidentally leaving a screw loose. So, what does everyone do if anything?

Oil seems a poor choice, but I wondered about something which would coat and dry. In the old days, boiled linseed oil was used like this on farm tools. In more recent times, I know guys who used car wax on Beretta magazines to stop rust, but avoid making them oily dust magnets. So, options like car polish, Flitz, etc. sound pretty good to me. Maybe even Militec? What do y’all think? Thanks.
 
I had a bit of surface rust under the scales of my 3.5 the other day. I rubbed the rust off with my finger and then threw a very light coat of 3-in-1 on before replacing the slabs.

Should be all I need. :)
 
I have found small rust specs under the micarta slabs, mostly close to the edges, on some second hand GSO's I've bought. Some warm soapy water and a tooth brush took them right off. After a washing and thorough drying I wiped the handle down with Tuff-cloth, let it dry completely, and then put the handles back on. This is the method I use with all my 3V GSO's and I've never had a problem with rust yet. I like Tuff-cloth because unlike oil it goes on wet but then dries completely. It doesn't stay "wet".
 
I haven't used Tuf cloth or Tuf glide, but I hear that name come up often and is specifically recommended by ESEE for their knives.

I've used Vaseline on exposed blades and this lasts months and months. Ethan Becker told me this is what Camillus used when shipping blades back in the day. I'll try this myself someday and try to remember to report back.
 
I just put a thick coat of mineral oil on the tang and then reattach the handles. Capillary action seems to keep it there. I have removed the scales months later and there was still oil jnder the scales. Mineral oil is food safe too.
 
Riz2530 said:
I just put a thick coat of mineral oil on the tang and then reattach the handles. Capillary action seems to keep it there. I have removed the scales months later and there was still oil jnder the scales. Mineral oil is food safe too.
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+1 exactly what he said.
I use a medium coat, wipe off any excess.
I coat most of the knives I used for food/fruit etc. with light food grade Mineral oil.
 
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Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not really concerned about it being a problem, but it's good to hear about what everyone is doing for prevention just the same.
 
Militec 1 on folders (pivot pins)
Mineral Oil on any blades being used for food.
Tuff Cloth on all others (Tactical folders and big fixed blade camp and wood processing knives).
 
Very cool, knife chop, thanks for putting the pics up.

Have you put a patina on 1095? Is 3v any more difficult?
 
Silver Needle said:
Very cool, knife chop, thanks for putting the pics up.

Have you put a patina on 1095? Is 3v any more difficult?
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I forgot to mention that the knife isn't mine. I took it straight from this thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1212683-Does-3V-patina

I'd say 3v will patina but it will take longer than 1095. Guy or Ellie can correct me if I'm wrong but I've read somewhere that their HT protocol for 3V is similar to Dan Keffler's which increases corrosion resistance without sacrificing toughness and edge holding.
 
I tried everything to get a patina on a 3V blade and it was never visible. A2 and 1095 patina quite easily.
 
I've had 3v change color slightly in some spots after cutting up a bunch of onions. When I cleaned the blade, there wasn't much of it left, and it was barely noticeable.
Was also very easy to polish out. I don't really consider putting a patina on 3v because I don't really think one will take.
 
I read on another knife forum in Oz that the 'passivating' occurs, even if it doesn't discolour the steel. So you still get the protection, you just can't see it. And that this applies to carbon and stainless. Can anyone confirm if this is true?
 
I had the same concern with a non survive knife in PD #1. When I took the slabs off I indeed found some rust spots. I sent it to be cerakoted. Cost 20 bux and looks damn cool. I recommend you do the same if concerned.
 
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