Project: First axe restoration

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May 19, 2009
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So a little bit of backstory first. My 86 year old grandfather is one of the few people I know who lives in a relatively large city and yet still gathers firewood to burn in his fireplace. He hunts around looking for pallets and other such items to dismantle with a bow saw, hammer and a hatchet. Needless to say, he jokes around about being an urban hunter/gather and about the funny looks he gets from sheeple who are (if they even engage in the practice) more used to burning duraflame logs or, at best, those overpriced bundles of quick-burning wood not fit for anything past kindling. As much as I'd like to rant about how disconnected people have gotten from essentials like food and warmth, that's the topic for another discussion...

This last christmas eve, my small family gathered at my grandparents for dinner and afterward, we sat around the fireplace chatting it up. As I was throwing a few chunks of wood onto the fire, I noticed my grandfather's hatchet leaning up near the pile of wood. It was in very dire shape: the head was dangerously loose, the handle severely cracked and held together with duct tape, the edge dull and the poll mushroomed over. I thought to myself "he could really use a new axe!". Now, I'd probably seen this axe countless times before and gave it no heed, but my recently gained interest in axes prompted me to inspect further....

Picking it up, I noticed the markings: "Sandvik, Sweden" on one side and "0.6 / 1 1/4" (the weight) on the other. Now I didn't have my laptop with me to do any searching around, but just based on it's origin, I knew this axe would probably be of higher quality than anything you could pick up at the hardware store these days...

Speaking to him about the axe, he said he hadn't replaced it since it's been serving him well and he'd become rather attached to it. He apparently has had it for quite a long time and it was originally a gift from his sister-in-law who had recently passed away. I then told him that he probably shouldn't be replacing it as it's hard to find decent quality axes for a good price these days. I then mentioned that I would be glad to fix it up for him, to which he responded with "sounds like a good christmas gift!"

So here it is, with some friends to keep it company until I find some time to work on it:
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On the to-do list is to get the old handle off, grind off the mushroomed sections of the poll, strip the remnants of paint off, sand it lightly, patina it in vinegar for some added rust resistance, resharpen the edge and then pick up a new handle to hang it. Oh, and I'll also be making a basic leather sheath. Hopefully I can find some free time to work on it soon here! :thumbup:
 
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Nice project and gesture for grand dad.

Just hand him one off them there on the rug and he will be killing skids in no time

The 0.6 is its weight in Kilo's and that weighs about a pound and a quarter = 1 1/4.
 
Nice project and gesture for grand dad.

Just hand him one off them there on the rug and he will be killing skids in no time

The 0.6 is its weight in Kilo's and that weighs about a pound and a quarter = 1 1/4.

Haha - I almost want to trade him my 10" Wetterlings for this thing truth be told. After investing a bit of work into it, I'm finding it to be a REALLY nice axe. More on that in a second here...
 
OK, so here's a progress update. I've been working pretty non-stop for about 4 or so hours now - when I get going, I really get going!

The head was hardly any trouble to remove from the incredibly damaged handle. There wasn't any sort of wedge and the thing appeared to be held in place by rubber cement or something similar applied on top of the eye. I simply sawed the handle off, drilled a few relief holes into the wood, then popped the sucker out with a hammer and chisel. About 10 minutes tops:
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The first order of business for me was to fix the badly damaged poll as best I could. It was pretty badly mushroomed over from being pounded on with a hammer - something I've already convincing my grandfather to not do after I get this back to him. As I'm without any stationary tools, I used a grinding wheel attachment on my dremel to do most of the work - it's a great, significantly cheaper alternative to a grinder or belt sander so long as you're wary of it's ability to mess with the temper if you go crazy with it. However, I wasn't anywhere near the cutting edge and even then, I only did small, quick strokes and kept feeling the metal to ensure it stayed cool. Here it is with the back end ground to shape. In the back, you can see my tools: the dremel, a nicholson file and used sandpaper from convex sharpening that I keep around for these sort of occasions:
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I then moved on to removing the paint and rust. My original plan was to strip it, but I found the pitting and grind marks underneath to be off-putting. Soooo, out came the dremel again, accompanied by a file. After I did some light grinding, I then spent A LOT of time using 100grit paper to remove the grind marks that I made. Note the insanely darkened hand:
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I then fixed up the poll some more with the sandpaper then chamfered the edges with the file:
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I then moved on to 220 grit sandpaper and after some sanding, found something QUITE peculiar: a hamon line! It's exactly where I can feel the sandpaper's "bite" deminish so it's clearly the transition area between hard and soft. Here's some pictures - it's somewhat faint on the "0.6/ 1 1/4" side, but quite visible on the "sandvik" side:
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I then took my nicholson file that I know quite well and tested the poll and edge. The file bit hard into the poll but not very aggressively into the the edge - it skidded ever so slightly unless a decent pressure was used. From my experience using this file on axes/blades with known hardness, I'd estimate that the poll is in the low-mid 40s and the edge to be about 57-58 hrc. To double check, I then tested the file on my GB Scandi (which is known to be 57-58) and the edge on this hatchet definitely feels similar (perhaps even just a wee bit harder). I'm guessing it's a single steel deferentially HT'd and not a welded bit, but I don't know my axes well enough to say for certain:
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Next on the agenda is to do the aggressive sharpening of the blade, patina the head in vinegar, and then finish sharpening. I alread know it's going to take and hold a wicked sharp edge! :thumbup:
 
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Thanks guys! Yeah - I'm really looking forward to giving my gramps his newly restored axe.

More on the project:

I let the head soak in a bowl of vinegar for a couple of hours and lo and hehold! Check out that hamon line:
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I've also spent an hour or so regrinding the badly worn edge. This is where you have to be really careful, especially with a dremel... the process is pretty much a very quick, light swipe with the grinding wheel followed by a quick dunk in water then rinse and repeat. After that, I filed out the grind marks which, based on my previous file-test, also showed me that the temper wasn't affected by the grinding. After that, I used 100grit sandpaper on a mousepad to do the first stage of sharpening. Here's the results thus far:
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Since the patina was messed up by the grinding and sharpening, I decided to just burnish it off and give it another soak in vinegar before doing the final sharpening. After that, it's off to home depot to pick out as decent an axe handle as I can find...
 
So despite my phoning ahead and being told that they had a selection of wooden and poly handle replacements, Home Depot actually only had two: straight helve for double bit and curved helve for single - both wooden, with the worst horizontal grain I ever saw, and in the 28-36" range.

I would have gone elsewhere, but I don't own a car and it was already 4:30 or so. I did pick up some materials to make a collapsible buck saw, but the axe project will have to wait until I can find a local place with a decent selection for axe handle replacements...
 
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Looks like a nice axe head to restore! Here is one I did that was salvaged from a thrift store.

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I look foward to seeing yours!
 
Killa-C,

Luv the hamon. Any news on the handle? By that I mean, did a search on the internet turn up anything?
 
Subscribing so I can see the end result. Do you sharpen you axe just like a convex grind knife? I just got a Wetterling small hunter and was wondering how you sharpen a good axe. All I have ever had to this point was the cheapest thing that I could find at the local Depot store and I sharpen to a sharp toothy edge with a file and that was it (it usually rolled). Anyone can jump in here and answer. The axe is not dull but it aint sharp either.
 
Killa-C,

Luv the hamon. Any news on the handle? By that I mean, did a search on the internet turn up anything?

Yeah - a member here emailed me a link to a decent place. I'd still like to do a bit of searching locally before going the online route though. Just easier to test the initial fit, see the grain, etc.

How about finding a nice piece of ash and a draw knife and making your own handle? Just a thought.

It's something I've been considering actually... I'd have to resort to a lumber store though as I'd be hard pressed to find adequately seasoned hardwood here in the wet/rainy NW during winter (especially smack dab in the middle of a city)

Subscribing so I can see the end result. Do you sharpen you axe just like a convex grind knife? I just got a Wetterling small hunter and was wondering how you sharpen a good axe. All I have ever had to this point was the cheapest thing that I could find at the local Depot store and I sharpen to a sharp toothy edge with a file and that was it (it usually rolled). Anyone can jump in here and answer. The axe is not dull but it aint sharp either.

Yeah - my sharpening method doesn't differ much from my convex blades, especially since they're not too far off from axes to begin with (1/2" thick kukris with convex grinds). Generally I first determine whether the axe's basic geometry is satisfactory. If it is (which has only ever been the case with GB), I'll simply use sandpaper (grits from 100 to 1000) on a mousepad to get rid of the grind marks and create a nice polish. Then I'll strop the edge on a piece of leather loaded with chrom oxide.

If the axe is too thick, is quite dinged up like this axe was, or otherwise just not up to snuff, I'll first re-profile it with my dremel/grinder and a file. I'll then spend a good bit of f time on the 100grit sandpaper to establish a good convex edge with a noticeable bur. Only after that will I start going up in grits (220, 400, 800, 1000) and then finish with stropping.

Since the axe project has pretty much come to a halt until I can get a handle, I decided to polish the edge up and post the results.

Polish to 1000:
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The strop I tend to use for axes as I need to be able to manipulate level of slack. I also have a simple glued down double sided strop seen above, but I reserve that for more V-type edges or more acute convex edges. In case anyone is curious, it's 8oz veg tanned leather (a belt blank cut down) loaded with .3 micron chrom oxide:
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Curling some paper:
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Taking some hair off my legs, where it's not so noticeable:
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Great job you did on that head, your Grandfather is going to be a happy man. I look forward to seeing the finished product.

Best regards

Robin
 
I'm really excited to see the end result of this axe and hear about your grandfather's reaction. I'm sure he'll be thrilled with what you've done.
 
Nice work. I'm sure your labor will be appreciated more than something store bought. You will enjoy educating him on what he has. He will enjoy listening to what you have learned. The appreciation will go both ways. A great tool rehab. Happy New Year.
 
I have picked up a couple old axes and am going to refurb like you are doing. That is what brought me to this section of the forum. I'll post photos like you are doing, and hope other guys do the same. There are a lot of axes out there worth bringing back
 
This is great. I have a hatchet I picked up that I've been meaning to fix up too. This is giving me much needed inspiration.
 
This is great. I have a hatchet I picked up that I've been meaning to fix up too. This is giving me much needed inspiration.

Yeah - it's just a shame that finding a proper handle is so difficult for this one. The eye's dimensions is more similar to a 19" axe than a hatchet... I lucked out though: the dealer I'm getting a couple handles from happened to have a 14" handle that hadn't been turned/sanded yet
 
What a GREAT IDEA Killa! I'm sure your Grandfather will be pleased. ;)
I'm contemplating getting a hatchet, and maybe fixing one up to keep as a bug out tool.
How is yours coming along? :)
-Bruce
 
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