Pros and cons of poured epoxy handles

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Jun 2, 2026
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I started handling knives with poured epoxy scales that I have made. Most, if not all have turned out really good looking. Seeing's I've only been doing this about 6months. I am just curious what pros and cons there are with using poured epoxy as handles. long term durability? Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Just a few of the knives i've done.

 
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Those look great! I asked a similar question a couple of weeks ago in this thread

It seems that epoxy handles are not all that popular. I've been carrying one in a pocket sheath for a couple of months now and have not had any issues. I expected it to get scratched up easily but it has not. I love the look and everyone I've given one to has, also. I'll keep making them just because I make stuff I like. If someone else likes it too, great! If not, I'll keep it.

I use Alumilite casting epoxy that's a 1:1 mix of resin and hardener. It is pretty durable stuff and is relatively easy to grind/sand/shape. Getting a good, scratch-free final polish takes some time but I really like the result.
 
Those look great! I asked a similar question a couple of weeks ago in this thread

It seems that epoxy handles are not all that popular. I've been carrying one in a pocket sheath for a couple of months now and have not had any issues. I expected it to get scratched up easily but it has not. I love the look and everyone I've given one to has, also. I'll keep making them just because I make stuff I like. If someone else likes it too, great! If not, I'll keep it.

I use Alumilite casting epoxy that's a 1:1 mix of resin and hardener. It is pretty durable stuff and is relatively easy to grind/sand/shape. Getting a good, scratch-free final polish takes some time but I really like the result.

I saw your post, but I must not have read it very well. I didn't see that you asked about the pros and cons already. I would agree that it definitely takes a good amount of time to wet sand and polish to a scratch free finish! May I ask how long it normally takes you to wet sand and polish? how high of grit do you go up to before polishing? 3000? I'm currently at around 2-4 hours of wet sanding and polishing after shaping the handle depending how many contours are in the handle. I'm trying to figure out a way to cut down the time without sacrificing the quality of the final shine.
 
I saw your post, but I must not have read it very well. I didn't see that you asked about the pros and cons already. I would agree that it definitely takes a good amount of time to wet sand and polish to a scratch free finish! May I ask how long it normally takes you to wet sand and polish? how high of grit do you go up to before polishing? 3000? I'm currently at around 2-4 hours of wet sanding and polishing after shaping the handle depending how many contours are in the handle. I'm trying to figure out a way to cut down the time without sacrificing the quality of the final shine.
Yeah - I didn't really ask for pros/cons. I was more curious about whether others like epoxy as much as I do. Given the responses, I'm thinking not really.

I haven't kept track of my time that closely but I'd say 2 or 3 hours per handle is a good estimate. I have found that changing the direction I'm sanding with each grit makes it much easier to know when to move on. I use a lighted magnifying glass to determine whether the previous scratches are gone. So far I have done all my sanding dry and have not seen much benefit from going higher than 2000. If I start polishing there or keep going to 3000 grit, the result seems to be about the same. And the 2000 and higher grit sandpaper loads up with dust really quickly. I'll try wet sanding one of these days but at the moment I'm using mostly micarta or wood.
 
Yeah - I didn't really ask for pros/cons. I was more curious about whether others like epoxy as much as I do. Given the responses, I'm thinking not really.

I haven't kept track of my time that closely but I'd say 2 or 3 hours per handle is a good estimate. I have found that changing the direction I'm sanding with each grit makes it much easier to know when to move on. I use a lighted magnifying glass to determine whether the previous scratches are gone. So far I have done all my sanding dry and have not seen much benefit from going higher than 2000. If I start polishing there or keep going to 3000 grit, the result seems to be about the same. And the 2000 and higher grit sandpaper loads up with dust really quickly. I'll try wet sanding one of these days but at the moment I'm using mostly micarta or wood.
yeah, I use the cross-hatch method when I sand. I found out that really helps to know when to move on to the next grit. wet sanding definitely helps with your sandpaper loading up. seeing's the water tends to pull the particles away. it still will build up but not as much in my opinion.
 
I think Andreas Kalani has done some interesting things with cast resin handles, but it's not something I'm personally interested in making. Mostly due to aesthetics, since they often look a little gawdy to my eye, but also because of the physical properties of the material being substantially inferior to fabric based composites
 
Wet sanding will reduce sanding time considerably and will save a lot of sandpaper.
Epoxy handles should ideally use rear bolsters or end caps to protect the material if the knife is dropped.
 
Wet sanding will reduce sanding time considerably and will save a lot of sandpaper.
Epoxy handles should ideally use rear bolsters or end caps to protect the material if the knife is dropped.
I already wet sand. I only dry sand to 320grit and then wet sand all the way up to 3000. I do appreciate the advice on using a rear bolster or end cap.
 
I think Andreas Kalani has done some interesting things with cast resin handles, but it's not something I'm personally interested in making. Mostly due to aesthetics, since they often look a little gawdy to my eye, but also because of the physical properties of the material being substantially inferior to fabric based composites
A "little"? :D
 
I love me a pinecone handle
 
They look sharp for a decorative knife but for a pure “hunting” knife, used for gutting, skinning, etc, no. They are way too slick with blood and guts covering the handle while working on a deer, elk, etc. It could slip and cut more than just the animal.
 
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