Protect your fingers: oil the joints daily.

jc57 said:
What I used was "Mineral Oil USP", the kind you are supposed to actually drink to help out with certain digestive tract problems. It was unscented and clear. Seemed a bit thick for knife purposes. I bet it would help with the other intended use of getting things moving, though.
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For some reason, all the pharmacists here have stopped selling it John. It's still sold for mixing into the feed of animals, but I've not yet managed to find a pet shop that has any. I'll order online if I get desperate, but it only seems to be sold in large amounts - and I really don't oil my knives that often! ;)

I bought some supposedly unscented baby oil a while back, but it was definitely perfumed, and I like my knives to smell like knives rather than baby's backsides! :D
 
I don't do it daily, but definitely every week or two when I rotate the knife -- the one going back in is cleaned, sharpened (if necessary) and oiled, so next time when it comes up its ready for the job. I don't like patina develop on me blades because of lack of cleaning. :D
 
A drop of 3-in-1 oil in the joints every month or so for the ones I carry regularly; do it too often, and it seems to attract more debris to the oiled areas. Also, a drop in the joints every 2 or 3 months for those that don't get carried/used that often.

Wood & bone scales get oiled with mineral oil occasionally.

That's about it.

~Chris
 
I flush the joint(s) when I first get them and when they need it thereafter. I've received a few knives that need a thorough de-gunking but are fine after that's taken care of.
 
I only oil the joints when I get some lint or fuzz in there, otherwise I leave them alone. New to me vintage knives get some oil/ Usually Militec. I make sure I clean it out good, only a little bit of it, a tiny drop in the joints.
 
Jack Black said:
Unscented food-grade mineral oil is curiously hard to obtain here these days (used to be that every pharmacy stocked it). I've been giving camellia oil a try over the past year or so (recommended by BRL no less), but I've been disappointed. It streaks patina and dries sticky on the blades/joints of stored knives :(
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If you can get it, Norton's honing oil is pure USP-grade mineral oil (& says so on the can), and is of a much lighter viscosity than the 'laxative' stuff found in the pharmacy. Very 'clean' oil, in terms of feel and scent (completely odorless). It'll work as well as anything; I've occasionally 'oiled the joints' on my knives with it. In the States anyway, it's available at Home Depot, alongside the Norton Economy SiC stone.

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David
 
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I've had a hard time finding unscented Mineral Oil, so I've been trying to accept that my knives will smell like my 9 month old son (on his best day/hour). That Norton honing oil suggestion is much appreciated.
 
State Side, head over to Home Depot (or the equivalent). In the 'paint' section they sell 12oz bottles of FDA approved food-grade mineral oil (unscented and tasteless) for treating cutting boards and butcher blocks. It costs about $10 U.S. for the bottle and should last you years. The brand I have is 'Howard's Cutting Board Oil'.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
If you can get it, Norton's honing oil is pure USP-grade mineral oil (& says so on the can), and is of a much lighter viscosity than the 'laxative' stuff found in the pharmacy. Very 'clean' oil, in terms of feel and scent (completely odorless). It'll work as well as anything; I've occasionally 'oiled the joints' on my knives with it. In the States anyway, it's available at Home Depot, alongside the Norton Economy SiC stone.

David
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Thanks, David! This is in stock at my local Home Depot. I'll be swinging by to get my lifetime supply tomorrow.
 
RDaneel said:
Thanks, David! This is in stock at my local Home Depot. I'll be swinging by to get my lifetime supply tomorrow.
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Sounds like a good plan. I can just start drinking that other stuff I bought at the pharmacy. Supposed to be safe, right? :D
 
jc57 said:
Sounds like a good plan. I can just start drinking that other stuff I bought at the pharmacy. Supposed to be safe, right? :D
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Yuck. Sounds like some of the "medicine" my mother made me drink when I was a kid!
 
O.C.D. oily compulsivity defence. you can get off in some states if you can prove this.

buzz
 
I bought some "reel butter" it's intended use is for oiling fishing rod reels but it works great for pocket knife pivots. I'm not sure if its food safe or not. But really guys,who is eating this stuff?
 
l use a small bottle of sewing machine oil to oil the joints of my old slip-joints once a year.
some of these old knives are stored in a roll some in a drawer. i figure it ain't gonna hurt 'em and it makes me feel good to do it to them.
if i use the knife much i oil the joints when they need it.

buzz
 
l use a small bottle of sewing machine oil to oil the joints of my old slip-joints once a year.
some of these old knives are stored in a roll some in a drawer. i figure it ain't gonna hurt 'em and it makes me feel good to do it to them.
if i use the knife much i oil the joints when they need it.
metal to metal needs a little tlc. an old friend told me years back that too much oil could cause hydraulic pressure in the joint? not really sure if this can actually happen.

buzz
 
marcus52AR said:
I bought some "reel butter" it's intended use is for oiling fishing rod reels but it works great for pocket knife pivots. I'm not sure if its food safe or not. But really guys,who is eating this stuff?
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It's more about eating the food one cuts with a knife that's coated in the stuff.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
If you can get it, Norton's honing oil is pure USP-grade mineral oil (& says so on the can), and is of a much lighter viscosity than the 'laxative' stuff found in the pharmacy. Very 'clean' oil, in terms of feel and scent (completely odorless). It'll work as well as anything; I've occasionally 'oiled the joints' on my knives with it. In the States anyway, it's available at Home Depot, alongside the Norton Economy SiC stone.

David
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Norton honing oil is what I use for lubricating the joints. I also put a dab on the blades of my non-stainless blades. As you say, it is USP-grade and has a bit lower viscosity. If the knife is one of my current users, it gets a treatment about once a week.

edited to add:
I also like that it has nice applicator cap that makes it easier to apply just a drop.
 
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