Push cutting paper with 36 grit stone?

By switch to a microbevel you mean go up to a higher stone right? As in if im sharpening at 25 degrees with a 80 grit stone and get a burr. I then sharpen up to 1000 at the same angle. Just making sure switch to a microbevel doesnt mean changing angles or anything. Because i always use the same angle from setting the apex to sharpening it.
 
A micro bevel requires going to a slightly higher angle, 2 or 3 degrees per side or maybe a bit more.
 
By switch to a microbevel you mean go up to a higher stone right? As in if im sharpening at 25 degrees with a 80 grit stone and get a burr. I then sharpen up to 1000 at the same angle. Just making sure switch to a microbevel doesnt mean changing angles or anything. Because i always use the same angle from setting the apex to sharpening it.

In my opinion they work best at a slightly higher angle, 5 degrees or less per side (per Me2) and with a higher grit stone than the last one used to set the bevel. You can make a very large jump if desired.

I don't normally use them at the same grit as the last bevel setting stone, in that case I'll just clean it up at the same angle.
 
Coarse stone sharpening is the foundation for all sharpening, you can learn a lot about mineral glazing, unit pressure, abrasive density, stone loading etc.

Martin (HH) knows more about this than I do. But I thought I'd throw in a quick plug for my Seven Secrets of Sharpening. "The Coarse Stone" is Secret #7. The secrets are intended to be read in order, so you should start at the beginning. But The Coarse Stone is definitely worth studying.

Brian.
 
By switch to a microbevel you mean go up to a higher stone right? As in if im sharpening at 25 degrees with a 80 grit stone and get a burr. I then sharpen up to 1000 at the same angle. Just making sure switch to a microbevel doesnt mean changing angles or anything. Because i always use the same angle from setting the apex to sharpening it.

Hi,
Try not to raise a burr (esp big burr) with the 80 grit stone,
or at least not often ( more than once or twice) as its very coarse
unless you get a practice/experiment knife you don't mind seeing shrink in width like a 3-4inch long kitchen paring knife

Then switch to a higher grit, like ~200 grit one, and raise a burr with that one

Until you get the hang of what burr feels like , like first practice, make a really big burr, so you know for sure what it is, then each following practice make smaller ones , babysteps.

Now with 200 grit stone,
Try sharpen at 15 degrees per side (or 12 or 10) to raise burr, preferably a tiny one, but for first time practice make sure its big enough to shake hands with :D

If its a tiny burr then jump to 20 degrees per side (or 15 or 13) and do a 1-2 edge leading alternating passes per side for your microbevel (like 4 total).

If you still feel burr, or its a giant burr jump to 30-40 degrees per side and do 1-2 light edge leading passes per side to cut off the burr, and maybe repeat a few times if the burr is really giant.

If burr was too giant and it folded over, you gotta stand it up before you can cut it off, which is 1-2 light edge trailing (stropping) passes to unfold it, and 1-2 edge leading to make sure its standing up, maybe at +0 or +5 degrees, about the same procedure as using a "chefs steel"


Then to create the microbevel a few strokes (for example, the same number used to deburr) at 20 degrees per side (or 15 or 13) to create a microbevel, no more than 20

Then to minimize the effect of the microbevel (to make it as micro as possible) do a few passes at original 15 (or 12 or 10) angle, no more than 10 or 20
This "advanced" optimization step is called backhoning/backsharpening
Focus on getting and removing burr completely first.

Try slicing some paper after deburring, then after microbeveling, then after backsharpening
It should sound noisiest after deburring, and get quieter after microbeveliing, and quieter after or backsharpening.

You can also shine a flashlight and see reflection from the microbevel , and its gets less as you backsharpen ... but save it for like 10th sharpening practice :)


Why 15 degrees you ask?
Look at Sharpening - Gränsfors Bruk
For carving axe they suggest Angle 25º – 30º , that is inclusive angle as in ~12 - 15 degrees per side

Felling axe angle is only 15 to 18 degrees per side ( 36 degrees inclusive)



The other "advanced" technique is cutting off the apex before you start sharpening ,
but to have a chance to notice an improvement in edge retention
you have to be cutting a thousand or more slices at a time,
thats up to half an hour of cutting , with switching hands every 5 or 10 or 15 minutes as they get tired.
First practice the burr/training wheels first.

Now a regular microbevel style sharpening might take less than 10 or 5 minutes,
esp if you're using scrubbing strokes ,
less than 300 passes per side wobbly freehand (like me)

However, the first time lowering the angle might from say 20dps to 15dps might take a bit more time than that ... less if you use coarser s tones



Speaking of angles, 15dps is a "safe" angle,
consider that under 15 dps edge can chop bones And 12 dps edge can still shaves/whittles beard hair after 1000 slices of hardwood ( yes a 1000 slices of hardwood )
25dps dulls faster than 20dps even if those are microbevel angles

Also consider this mind exploding material Extreme Regrind , ~6DPS no damage in 50 slices into pine, hardwood flooring and plywood the edge eventually gets damaged while cutting metal (steel food can)
Edge Retention : Cardboard

Yeah, sorry, I did kind of get carried away and throw too much stuff at you too soon kinda jumbled,
remember, training wheels, baby steps, learn the big burr, practice small then tiny burr, double angle deburr... think about what you're doing, do more stuff with your hands before reading too much or watching too many videos ... ask questions freely... kitchen paring knives are usually dull but easy to grind and learn about burrs and bandaids and even stitches :eek:
 
I thought there was a similar video of Sharpening done with a 24 grit Nubatama water stone, but I can't seem to find it.
 
Pushcutting paper with 36grit stone.....

I keep having trouble pushcutting paper with any stone...... wether l stropped it or didnt.....[emoji85]


Sent from iPhone met Tapatalk
 
Agreed,the coarse stone is the corner stone of sharpening. You build upon that with all other sharpening. Even just a one hundred grit stone takes work and some know how to produce a clean edge. And that edge will cut for a long time. More general cutting, it's not a specific task edge. Mastering it is a proper step for any sharpener. DM
 
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