Quality knife, easier to damage?

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MY opinion comes from experience using those crappy "sharpeners" on my knives before I actually knew what I was doing. they have a notch that you drag along the edge, stripping off entirely too much metal, and instead of honing the edge- it just cuts the edge into a v shape. It doesnt do a good job, and it screws up the edge.

That is why it doesnt work on your CRKT any more. after repeated sharpenings you have worn the edge back far enough that the notch isnt even contacting the edge anymore, but is being hung up on the shoulder.

Get a Sharpmaker- it has a video, and if you are capable of holding the blade straight up and down, you can become the master of your own destiny(sharpeningwise, anyway)
If you do, you will find a new definition of "scary sharp" because I guarantee you that level is unattainable with the notch style sharpeners.
 
Sure-Fire said:
For the third time, the handle is anodized which is a coating (apparently a better coating than my benchmade).

You car analogies really suck, BTW.
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Has the handle of the Benchmade scratched? Or is the BT2 coating on the blade? The BT2 coating and anodizing are different processes as far as I know. Perhaps someone here could explain anodizing. From what I know when you anodize something you are actually coloring the metal by changing it's properties, and not actually coating it with another material. With the BM, the BT2 is actually a coating applied to the blade. Your CRKT doesn't have any coating on the blade, it is bead blasted. Also if your BM is all black it will be more likely to show scratches than a grey knife.

If you don't like the black coating coming off the blade I'd suggest not buying knives with coated blades. Your M16 does not have a coated blade.
 
WadeF said:
Has the handle of the Benchmade scratched? Or is the BT2 coating on the blade? The BT2 coating and anodizing are different processes as far as I know. Perhaps someone here could explain anodizing. From what I know when you anodize something you are actually coloring the metal by changing it's properties, and not actually coating it with another material. With the BM, the BT2 is actually a coating applied to the blade. Your CRKT doesn't have any coating on the blade, it is bead blasted. Also if your BM is all black it will be more likely to show scratches than a grey knife.

If you don't like the black coating coming off the blade I'd suggest not buying knives with coated blades. Your M16 does not have a coated blade.
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You asked this same question before, I answered it:

Sure-Fire said:
All of the discussion of wear has been about the handle. The handle of my CRKT is hard anodized.
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One more time, I am talking about the handle, NOT THE BLADE.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
MY opinion comes from experience using those crappy "sharpeners" on my knives before I actually knew what I was doing. they have a notch that you drag along the edge, stripping off entirely too much metal, and instead of honing the edge- it just cuts the edge into a v shape. It doesnt do a good job, and it screws up the edge.

That is why it doesnt work on your CRKT any more. after repeated sharpenings you have worn the edge back far enough that the notch isnt even contacting the edge anymore, but is being hung up on the shoulder.

Get a Sharpmaker- it has a video, and if you are capable of holding the blade straight up and down, you can become the master of your own destiny(sharpeningwise, anyway)
If you do, you will find a new definition of "scary sharp" because I guarantee you that level is unattainable with the notch style sharpeners.
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I find it easier to just use the Klein and buy a new work knife ever 3+ years ;)
 
hardheart said:
then stick with cheap knives and garbage sharpeners.
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Well that's the point!

The 3 year old cheap knife is in better condition than the brand new (well, 2 day old) expensive knife. And the "garbage" sharpener kept the "Cheap knife's" blade just as sharp as the expensive knife for 95% of the knife's life (towards the end it stopped working as well).

I am glad one person understands, thanks hardheart.
 
not a problem

But you'll not find a member here who'll find that sharpener to be acceptable. Put the benchmade up for trade for a sharpener-the sharpmaker has an instructional video, and there are several faqs on the task (check the toolshed forum as well). You will need some stones much, much coarser than those that come with the sharpmaker because of the abuse your work knife suffers. I used a cold steel voyager for nearly 3 years working in the oilfield, I usually took it to a shaving edge with a medium grit Lansky stone, and could get it to shaving again after damage with the diamond file on my leatherman.
 
Sure-Fire said:
Well that's the point!

The 3 year old cheap knife is in better condition than the brand new (well, 2 day old) expensive knife. And the "garbage" sharpener kept the "Cheap knife's" blade just as sharp as the expensive knife for 95% of the knife's life (towards the end it stopped working as well).

I am glad one person understands, thanks hardheart.
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So what is your point? If you have no intention to learn anything, and you dont want informed opinions from knowledgeable individuals- you just want to complain and whine?:yawn:

why are you here?
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
So what is your point? If you have no intention to learn anything, and you dont want informed opinions from knowledgeable individuals- you just want to complain and whine?:yawn:

why are you here?
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I am here to annoy you, that is why I joined, that is why I post.
 
that kind of comment will certainly get you banned, you might want to edit, if you care to stick around
 
hardheart said:
not a problem

But you'll not find a member here who'll find that sharpener to be acceptable. Put the benchmade up for trade for a sharpener-the sharpmaker has an instructional video, and there are several faqs on the task (check the toolshed forum as well). You will need some stones much, much coarser than those that come with the sharpmaker because of the abuse your work knife suffers. I used a cold steel voyager for nearly 3 years working in the oilfield, I usually took it to a shaving edge with a medium grit Lansky stone, and could get it to shaving again after damage with the diamond file on my leatherman.
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As I mentioned before, I just don't have the skill (and a DVD doesn't hand out skill) to sharpen well. I could practice and practice and one day I would be able to make a good blade, but I will have spent a lot of money on sharpeners, stones, and knives with blades that I have dulled/damaged along the way.
 
Sure-Fire said:
I am here to annoy you, that is why I joined, that is why I post.
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It takes more than an ignorant individual proudly displaying his lack of knowledge and refusing to learn to annoy me. I almost pity you, but I'm not quite there yet.
 
hardheart said:
that kind of comment will certainly get you banned, you might want to edit, if you care to stick around
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If a comment like that will get me banned, I most certainly wouldn't want to be a member in the first place.

Rat Finkenstein has been rude and a wiseass the entire time, if a response in kind gets me banned, I will be happy that they did me the favor.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
It takes more than an ignorant individual proudly displaying his lack of knowledge and refusing to learn to annoy me. I almost pity you, but I'm not quite there yet.
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When the day comes that a simpleton like you has the ability to teach me something, I will be happy to learn it.
 
you don't need to buy a lot of stuff, and you can practice on a really cheap knife, and just one. An opinel might be a good start, they're so thin to begin with and have carbon steel blades. Easy to sharpen. Victorinox is also good, nice and thin and the stainless they use isn't a hard to sharpen super steel. Or just practice with your CRKT, you already have the Spyderco to work with. (I recommend HIGHLY that you don't use that carbide scraper on the spyder, they come from the factory with an excellent edge, and you'd only being taken a step backwards by ripping it away)
 
hardheart said:
you don't need to buy a lot of stuff, and you can practice on a really cheap knife, and just one. An opinel might be a good start, they're so thin to begin with and have carbon steel blades. Easy to sharpen. Victorinox is also good, nice and thin and the stainless they use isn't a hard to sharpen super steel. Or just practice with your CRKT, you already have the Spyderco to work with. (I recommend HIGHLY that you don't use that carbide scraper on the spyder, they come from the factory with an excellent edge, and you'd only being taken a step backwards by ripping it away)
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Maybe one day when I have more spare time on my hands I could fool around with them. I made plans to have my CRKT sharpened by a very nice and helpful individual here at the forums so that will be taken care of.

What you mentioned about taking a step backwards, that's ALL I've ever taken when sharpening myself, until I got the Klein.
 
I think it's pretty clear that this thread is over. The guy doesn't want any help, he just wanted to complain, and now he wants to argue and insult people. It's time to move on.
 
Sure-Fire said:
When the day comes that a simpleton like you has the ability to teach me something, I will be happy to learn it.
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LOL! This coming from someone who appears hopelessly ignorant. . . but more likely is just a simple troll.:yawn:
 
your post count is too low for the mods to have much pity, and that statement wasn't just flaming/arguing, it was a declaration that you intend to be a troll on the forums. Bladeforums has had several individuals who registered multiple accounts just for that, it's a touchy subject.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
LOL! This coming from someone who appears hopelessly ignorant. . . but more likely is just a simple troll.:yawn:
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Yet you continue to come back to start more trouble...
 
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