Recommendation? Question about Northwoods Micartas

They're there when you get the knife but can also develop, though I highly doubt all of yours developed.

I think it's due to how Northwoods' source for micarta makes their products. It doesn't seem like the same kind of epoxy or suspending solution as other micarta, and they certainly don't layer the suspended material (burlap, denim, etc) as tightly as other manufacturers.

I'm not really a fan of their micarta, but it fits the purposefully rustic aesthetic they usually go for recently.
 
Par for course and I have a lot of Northwoods. Lots of great advice and well thought out reasons above.
 
This is why I never bought another Northwoods after my Esky Zulu in denim micarta. The quality of the custom micarta was very sketchy. It wasn't even burlap, closer to canvas, and it still had lots of small voids. It just wasn't good quality micarta. More like something I'd cook up in my basement.

If you zoom in on this picture, you can see them.

wY2uoYn.jpg
 
Buzzbait said:
This is why I never bought another Northwoods after my Esky Zulu in denim micarta. The quality of the custom micarta was very sketchy. It wasn't even burlap, closer to canvas, and it still had lots of small voids. It just wasn't good quality micarta. More like something I'd cook up in my basement.

If you zoom in on this picture, you can see them.

wY2uoYn.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow, that's pretty pronounced wear. I guess some sealant or wax would reduce that sort of wear. I really wonder if that is something they are going for? It seems kinda odd, if so.
 
I like they way the denim micarta wears. The wear evens out and is like a pair of jeans from use.

I used the Northwoods Demin Micarta Zulu for 5 months straight. The more I used it the better it became.
 
JTB_5 said:
Wow, that's pretty pronounced wear. I guess some sealant or wax would reduce that sort of wear. I really wonder if that is something they are going for? It seems kinda odd, if so.
Click to expand...

That was taken when brand new. I really liked the rough worn denim look. It's why I bought it. What I didn't expect was the voids and the large amount of resin showing. So much resin in fact, that it kind of overwhelms the denim after a bit of use.

Here's a shot from months later, after a lot of use. All of the rough denim fibers wore off, leaving mostly resin and voids. I find it to be quite ugly now. It's too bad. It's one of the handiest blades I've ever used.

uP7rXKy.jpg
 
Buzzbait said:
That was taken when brand new. I really liked the rough worn denim look. It's why I bought it. What I didn't expect was the voids and the large amount of resin showing. So much resin in fact, that it kind of overwhelms the denim after a bit of use.

Here's a shot from months later, after a lot of use. All of the rough denim fibers wore off, leaving mostly resin and voids. I find it to be quite ugly now. It's too bad. It's one of the handiest blades I've ever used.

uP7rXKy.jpg
Click to expand...

I see what you mean. I do like the Zulu pattern. The custom slip joint I have from Roland Lannier has a zulu-like profile.
 
Will Power said:
I have to say I don't like the look of these holes or perforations...these are not exactly cheap knives either! OK they can be fixed with filler etc, I wonder if other Burlap displays this tendency? Fiddleback Forge knives use a great deal of Burlap and it can look fantastic, but does it too get the Swiss Cheese effect?;)
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Yeah I have agree with you there. They are at a premium and Many can take it as a fit and finish issue.
 
Ramrodmb said:
I know nothing about making Micarta, BUT, I do know something about gluing wood (boards). The thinner the layer of adhesive is, the better the bond is. Period. Just wanted to throw that out there.
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Sorry, off topic but @HEMI 49 is generally correct when it comes to wood joinery. It is possible to produce a "starved" glue joint with excessive clamping pressure. Especially with thin viscosity glues.
https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fpltn/fpltn-193-1952.pdf
Also with modern glues like aliphatic resins (i.e. Titebond) it is absolutely critical to apply enough glue to wet the wood with glue. So it is entirely possible to apply a layer of glue that is too thin to produce an acceptable bond.
 
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