Question for Cliff Stamp re: Ed Fowler's knives...

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Cliff, have you ever had the chance to test one of Mr. Fowler's knives? I have been reading his book "Knife Talk" lately, and am impressed with his knowledge and personal testing of his own blades. I guess I'll throw in Bill Burke's knives too, as he is a protege of Ed.
Just curious,
Mongo
 
Mongo,

I can't write a report like Cliff does but I do own a 3 1/2" yearling model made by Ed. I don't have a full understanding of the process they've devoloped for the steel they are using, but based on the way this knife has performed for me, I have full confidence in his methods. Besides being very thoughtfully and comfortably designed, the steel itself is quite strong and can take a sharp edge.

Open carry is illegal here so I had a custom sheath made for this knife. Unfortunately, I left the knife in it for a few days and the dye from the sheath had a caustic effect on the steel. As a result, I've probably abused this knife more than most owners would, including cutting flattened soda cans in half and I also had to cut some heavy staples once. BTW, I fixed this problem by coating the inside of the sheath with White Lightning lubricant, in case this info helps anyone. Wood has proven to be no match...:D The blade will also bend before it breaks. No, I haven't tried this myself, but I've seen a few test blades. I don't have any numbers for you, but compared to the other custom blades that I've owned, it performs on the highest end of the spectrum.

A couple of the design features I enjoy most are the comfortable handle and the edge geometry of the blade. I've used the tip of the blade to easily pry open oysters and I've been able to thrust the blade into a palm tree without any discomfort. If you're thinking of buying one of Ed or Bill's knives, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

-Jose
 
It is one of my knife dreams to own an Ed Fowler blade one day. I think his knives have a strong visual appeal, and am definately intrigued about the high performance aspect. I hope you have his book, it is a great read. There is also a half dozen or so color pics in the book that is some of the best knife porn I have ever seen! I have researched both Ed's and Bill's prices and wait times, and I can see that it is but a dream for now. Someday.
Mongo
 
Mongo,

Great thread, I contacted Mr. Fowler last week for his book. Sounds like it will be an education in itself.


Thanks
 
Mongo,

Yes, his book was the impetus for my purchase. His knives are on the expensive side but if you can make it to a show you can get around the wait, assuming he brings something that suits your tastes. His knives really are pieces of art, so I don't imagine that most collectors would subject their knives to any abusive tests. I was quite satisfied with the performance of my knife just by comparing it's efficiency to the other blades I had purchased in the meantime, but when the finish was damaged, I decided to push it a little further. Jerry Shipman recounted an accident he was in, a few months ago in Blade, where he was forced to cut his way out of a semi cab using his Burke pronghorn. My tests pale in comparison.

-Jose
 
No I have not used one. There is too much of a difference in performance between us. For example the spine is left very soft and the tapers extreme. This isn't a matter of right or wrong simply a difference in where the performance should be focused. Ed places a large importance on the flexibility of his blades, and has achieved the ability to flex them to extreme degrees even by ABS standards*. I would much rather the blade be stiffer and resist bending instead of being able to take a larger bend.

Similar differences exist for example in regards to durability. In his knifemaking video Ed mentions how his knives are not meant to cut hard materials like bone. Well if you restrict the materials being cut in that manner, I would chose other steels which are not as tough as 52100, but which can be made harder and more wear resistant. Now of course these steels would not be as flexible, and would not be practical to forge (probably). I have also cut lots of kinds of bone using lots of knives, even with small knives and mallets, ref :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=243045

One thing I do remain curious about however would be a comparion of a 52100 blade forged and heat treated in the manner in which Ed does, compared to a stock removal blade heat treated using modern oven and full cryogenic abilities done by someone who is as experienced in this method as Ed is with his way. Of course the fully hard blade would not have the flexibility of the other due to its soft spine, however I would be curious as to the difference in edge retention, durability, sharpening etc. .


*I should note here however that in his video, Ed clearly states he bends his knives around a wooden block not against the jaws of the vice because they can break that way. This somewhat complicates comparisons to those bending without blocks.


-Cliff
 
From what I know about cryogenics, it is an extension of the heat treat process used to increase performance as much as 400% in some steels(d-2 and hss which is m-2). It is not a quick fix for sloppy heat treatment practices, although there have been instances in industry where it was cheaper to cryo-treat parts that were heat treated incorrectly to bring them up to an acceptable performance level, rather than remake and reheat treat them.
In the knifeworld, there are many differing opinions on practices and things that should or should not be for any given reason. I believe that proper cryogenic cycles(tempering before the freeze, a slow decent down and up, and the appropriate tempering cycles) will almost always be worth the increase in performance. The cryogenic freezing of steel actually will increase the martensitic conversion between 4-6% in properly heat treated steel. This means there will be almost a total conversion to martensite, which is the strong and hard structure that increases wear resistance and strength. In speaking with a metallurgist, Rex Walter, several months ago, I learned that when he examined Ed's blades he found that the hardened edge part of Ed's knives had a 100% conversion to martensite. In other words, cryogenically freezing Ed's blades would accomplish nothing. Not all 52100 is the same, but Ed buys a large batch of high grade 52100 so he is working with the same stuff each time. The combination of his steel, low temperature forging (1625 F), the great lengths he goes to in order to mechanically work the steel as much as possible, leaving his blades 3/32 over sized to allow for decarb, and the mastering of using the torch to "paint" the heat on to the right temp, explains in part why his knives perform great and are worth so much.
As far as avoiding using Ed's knives for cutting bone(and I don't mean to put words in anyone's mouth) but if he recommended that his customers regularly went and beat the knife into the pelvis of an elk, he probably would have a lot more warranty claims coming in. A knife is not really meant for cutting thorugh bone, especially one designed to be a fine cutter(the pronghorn for example). It is not a matter of inferior blade ware if a fine slicer chips while cutting a bone, it is a matter of putting too much force on something that is not designed to take it.
Would I buy a cryogenically treated knife? Yeah you bet! I would love to own on of Mr. Fowlers creations someday, but for me, a high quality knife that has had cryogenic treatment done is more cost effective, and plus I wouldn't cry so much if a lost it like I would if I lost a "Pronghorn" or "yearling". I would choose the cheaper and disposible cryo-treated blade for daily use, but I know that a knife that Ed makes would not doubt out perform it by a landslide.
 
Multi-tempering and deep cryogenics can both achieve a high percentage of martensite formation and grain refinement. Based on details noted it doesn't look like the stock removal cryogenic blade could have more of a transformation, nor a much finer grain, as both are near maximum. However it obviously could be equal - and with a much simpler process. In addition, the primary advantage of deep cryogenics is that it effects the structure of the carbides formed, specifically inducing the creation of high wear eta-carbides.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

Do you have any statistics on the amount of force needed to bend or snap a 1/8" blade? I also have a 3/16" blade that I can test. I don't mean to destroy my knives, but if I can figure out a way to rig it up, I'm willing to measure the amount of force needed before they started to flex.

As far as wear resistance is concerned, I've used my blade to cleave metal with no damage, so there is at least a minimum of performance there. Edge retention was greater for me than a custom made Talonite folder, it's also much easier to sharpen.

I'll be at the Blade show this year with some of Ed's knives. If you plan on being there maybe we can set up some tests? :D

-Jose
 
Lukers,

Prompted by your post, I chopped up a piece of bone, from a ribeye steak, using my Yearling. The blade is 3 1/2" long by 1" wide by 1/8" thick at the base of the spine, it cuts about as well as a paring knife.

To start I sharpened the blade so it cleanly sliced a sheet of paper. Next I placed the blade on one side of the bone and pressed and wiggled the blade into the bone. This showed some results, but I would not have been able to generate enough force to break the bone this way, so I chopped into the bone until it broke. Afterwards the blade would still cleanly slice a sheet of paper. The edge didn't fold over, but by looking at it, you could see that some spots were dulled. About a minute of work with a sharpening steel restored the edge.

-Jose
 
I am one of the fortunates to have an Ed Fowler knife. Have had it for 8 years now. It's one of my "best" knives and I have quite a few nice ones put away.

To own a Fowler in 52100 from his forge is an honor to me. Mine looks like #26 of 33 shown on the above link.

Brownie
 
Jose Reyes, I gotta tell you that your pictures are driving me crazy. The bowie in the far right of your pictures is the nicest Fowler I have ever seen! Something about the blade shape and the shape of the handle seem to give it a more streamlined appearance. Whatever, I love it. :D
 
Danbo,

Thanks, I feel the same way. I love the belly on that blade and the angle of the handle. Even though it's designed a bit differently, it still feels great in the hand. I plan on having more pictures taken at Blade this year! :D

-Jose
 
I have a Pronghorn that I use when I can and it has done everything I've asked of it. There are some things that knives are made to do and some that shouldnt be asked of it except in the direst of situations.
Ed takes his testing very seriously and has good reasons for every feature on his knives.
Jose, that is a really impressive collection!
 
Dave,

I own only 1 of the knives pictured in my sig line. I remember handling your pronghorn at one of the NY knife shows, it's a fine example of Ed's work, and I'm sure it'll hold up under any task you put it to.

I have to disagree with Cliff's statements so far. While it's true that some of Ed's knives are not designed to cut bone, you can use them to dig around a joint to sever a limb. Normal contact againt bone will not damage the blade, nor have I found them to be less durable. The spine does taper to point, making it a very useful tool, but it is still quite strong. The spine of the blade is softer than the edge, but the tip of the blade is not soft, it's hardened as well. Ed's blades will bend before they break, but I would be surprised to find that they did so under significantly less pressure than any other blade of the same thickness.

-Jose
 
Jose :

Do you have any statistics on the amount of force needed to bend or snap a 1/8" blade?

About 500 in.lbs for a full grind . Thus easily bent / broken mainly with your wrist, moderate effort from your shoulder as only 75 lbs or so is needed with a decent sized knife, 3-4" blade, 4" handle.

To exmaine the lateral stiffness and strength, clamp the knife in a vice and grip the handle with a large wrench. Apply a weight to the wrench, moving it out on the handle to increase the torque.

As the blade starts to bend you have to take the angle into account, so you would also want to note this as well.

Ed's blades will bend before they break, but I would be surprised to find that they did so under significantly less pressure than any other blade of the same thickness.

Strength is highly correlated to hardness. Differntially tempered blades are far easier to bend than fully hardened ones, I have used many. Spines that are not spring tempered are *far* weaker still. Tapers also make blades much easier to bend as well.

Normal contact againt bone will not damage the blade, nor have I found them to be less durable.

I never said otherwise. I simply noted that the maker has clearly stated they are not intended to cut bone or other similar hard materials, and with that restriction there are other steels I would chose.

As far as wear resistance is concerned, I've used my blade to cleave metal with no damage, so there is at least a minimum of performance there.

Yes, but relative to steels like D2, or as an extreme CPM-10V, it is very low

Edge retention was greater for me than a custom made Talonite folder, it's also much easier to sharpen.

Yes, I have used a number of 52100 blades, custom as well as production. All will stay sharper than Talonite. Talonite is simply far too soft and thus weak and rolls easily. I found that it could not even out perform producton stainless steels (similar for many other Cobalt alloys, I used several different types, and multiples of some of the blades).

Lifter4him :

I have a Pronghorn that I use when I can and it has done everything I've asked of it.

So has my Opinel - does this mean that it is in the same class as your Pronghorn. Performance is only meaningful when baselines are defined, it is a relative term.

In reference to performance, in the metal cutting thread noted in the above, Jerry Busse offered both Burke and Fowler the chance to compare their blades against the *production and stock removal* Swamp Rats (steel similar to 52100) at Blade - both makers refused. Take from this what you will.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

You're right, it took a moderate amount of strength from the shoulder, with a stiff armed grip on the handle, before I felt any flex in the blade. Are fully hardened blades in this range, or are they much more difficult to bend?

I can see the need for increased strength on a knife designed specifically to be used as a prybar, such as a diver's knife, but generally speaking, wouldn't you want the knife to be able to handle heavy chopping, rather than prying, duties? Would a fully hardened blade be much more likely to break under such use?

There are going to be trade offs in almost every aspect of design. Tapering the blade may make it less suitable to pry with, but the main function of a knife is to cut, and it's that taper that makes it an efficient tool. My yearling was not designed to cut bone, but it is capable of the job. The piece of bone I cut doesn't compare to an elk pelvis, but if you tried to break it with my yearling, in a manner best suited to it's design, I'm sure it could handle the task.

I'm aware that Talonite is not a high performance material, I used it only as a reference. I also have a Randall (o1?) that takes a sharper edge but edge retention is not as good. It is a thinner blade with a more acute angle at the edge, and based on reports I have read, much more brittle. I own other custom knives as well but I'm not sure what steel was used.

I don't usually like to talk about a maker unless it's in a positive light, but as far as the Busse/Swamp Rat challenge is concerened, I think that Busse is a good business man and he saw an opportunity for some publicity in a win-win situation. Would that same offer be open to any up-and-coming smith that thinks he's up to the challenge?

Even if Busse's blades performed as well, it really would be an apples and oranges comparison anyway. Instead of going to Blade to find out which knife can cut more slices of rope, I'd like to see how well these blades perform in the field and how efficient they are. That includes ergonomics and weight.

-Jose
 
Cliff: You certainly have a lot of comments about something you have not personally experienced.

Cutting Bone: Yes I can make a knife that will cut bone, but what for? I nave never had a need to cut bone in the field, nature put joints in animals for a reason. Only a supreme clutz would find a need to cut bone in the field.

Bend a knife around a smooth radius rather than a sharp vice jaw: Yes and here is why, a scratched surface can produce a stress riser when flexed. I know of no sharp edges like that in practical use of a knife. When testing for flex variables need to be isolated for comprehensive understanding.
 
Jose :

Are fully hardened blades in this range, or are they much more difficult to bend?

Fully hardened blades can be twice as strong or more than those with soft spines. They are also stiffer than spring tempered spined blades (in the nature of 25%), but can break easier (under lower force) due to a lack of ductility. This is why in general there is little arguement against spring tempering spines. While they do slightly lower stiffness, they massively increase ductility and impact toughness. Of course it depends on the steel and the other aspects of blade geometry such as spine curvature and other stress concentrating elements. Some blades are very ductile and tough even at full hardness.

[chopping]

Would a fully hardened blade be much more likely to break under such use?

The edge is still full hard, and that is where the crack will start as that is the focus of the impacts. Now there is an argument that the spines left soft make the edge more durable because of the shock damping, and you can feel this if you smash the flat of a large fully hardened blade against a hard object compared to one with a soft spine, however I don't think the damping effect is the critical one in regards to the onset of damage. I have seen lots of cracks on blades with really soft spines. This is one of the things on my todo list to examine.

There are going to be trade offs in almost every aspect of design.

Yes, this is what I was trying to make very clear in the start. There is no real right or wrong in blade design, just does something do what you need it to do or not.

Tapering the blade may make it less suitable to pry with, but the main function of a knife is to cut, and it's that taper that makes it an efficient tool.

Yes, I have lots of knives like that. Distal taper to a very fine point on very thin stock with full flat grinds. My point here is not that tapers are a bad thing, but that on knives of that design I would prefer a different steel, harder and of a higher carbided alloy.

Would that same offer be open to any up-and-coming smith that thinks he's up to the challenge?

No idea, ask him

Ed :

[cut bone]

but what for?

I never argued for its necessity, simply stated that it was a restriction, and on knives so restricted (of which I have many) I would prefer other steels.
Only a supreme clutz would find a need to cut bone in the field.

Having the ability to cut bone is a side issue, however it is endorsed by many, Ron Hood for example uses it as a common test on his survival knives, one of many in fact as hardly everyone has the skill or knowledge to avoid bones completely. Of course there is also the self-defense arguement, bone cutting tests with such knives are fairly common. Then there is the whole range of accidental high impact stresses which can produce similar effects.

[vice jaws]

Bend a knife around a smooth radius rather than a sharp vice jaw: Yes and here is why, a scratched surface can produce a stress riser when flexed.

I am not sure what you mean there, the vice jaw scratching the surface of the blade, or scratches in the vice jaws influencing the bend. In any case a vice jaw will inherently be harder to bend around because it will induce a higher curvature at the contact point at a given bend angle.

I know of no sharp edges like that in practical use of a knife.

Entry tools get subjected to very similar forces (as do knives used to pry around joint bones - by the way this was one of the promoted design constraints for CPM-S30V). In any case, my point here was not to argue against such testing, as long as bends are consistent you can learn from it, but simply to point out that most people doing vice tests bend against the vice jaws which is a much more stressful test. owever since you are arguing suitability of tests, I can't recall the last time I had a use to bend a knife to 180 degrees several times.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

So a fully hardened blade would resist bending by about 25% more before it snapped? Would the soft spine on differentially hardened blades allow the edge to crack without having the blade snap in half, even if it didn't necessarily make it harder for the edge to crack in the first place? I'm interested in seeing the results of your tests.

Your ideas seem to call for more specialized materials based on design. OK, I can see your point. While my yearling was not designed to cut bone, it is capable of it if the need arose. Would the steels you had in mind, that can be made harder and more wear resistant, accomplish this as well? IMO, more important than the steel of choice, is the smith's undertanding of it's properties, and his ability to precisely control them. Do you think that the specific steel used will make a bigger difference than this, assuming everything is done properly?

-Jose
 
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