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One of the reasons why I don't like bead blast finish....
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Question for the Kershaw Mafia
- Thread starter dougo83
- Start date
My Vapor did that on the blade but not the handle. Many stainless alloys will do this in my pocket, satin type finishes more so. I buffed mine old school, abrasive paper and steel wool. Then I wax it with Chap Stick once in a blue moon. Why Chap Stick? It was handy.
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Have you tried it? Pencil eraser doesn't work in all cases.
It's never harmed any of my blades. I'm talking the powder stuff.
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Ok...I just took some WD-40 and a dish sponge to it and removed to bead blast. Looks much better, so thanks.
Second, I picked up a Leek from the Pay it Forward thread in W&SS. The safety lock is broken. Kershaw is sending a replacement. However, I cannot get the screw out. I thought it was an Allen head, but upon closer inspection, I believe it is a Torx. Any info? Or will Kershaw send me the tool as well?
Thanks again
Dougo83
Second, I picked up a Leek from the Pay it Forward thread in W&SS. The safety lock is broken. Kershaw is sending a replacement. However, I cannot get the screw out. I thought it was an Allen head, but upon closer inspection, I believe it is a Torx. Any info? Or will Kershaw send me the tool as well?
Thanks again
Dougo83
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Yes, it is normal on many bead blasted Kershaws I've owned (and a couple from other manufacturers). The most ardent members of the "mafia" may question the use to which you put the blade and the climate in which you live. They may state that it never happens and even question your veracity. Then they may suggest that you apply oil or a protectant to the blade.
For me the bottom line is that bead blast/satin finished Kershaw blades rust -- particularly the Sandvik steels. I have seen the same issues with the same type of finish on Cold Steel AUS 6 steel and Lone Wolf S30V steel. The good news is that the rust polishes off pretty easily.
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Here's another interesting thread on the topic (specific to Kershaw's bead blast on the Sandvik blades):
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=732848
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If my brand new knife looked like that after 11 days I'd return it to the manufacturer for refund or another model with better corrosion resistance.
I sure wouldn't keep it, and I certainly wouldn't be asking for advice on how to get rid of rust on a product that crappy.
I sure wouldn't keep it, and I certainly wouldn't be asking for advice on how to get rid of rust on a product that crappy.
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The safety uses a torx #6 to tighten and loosen the safety on the Leek. Sometimes the safety gets a little loose and a slight turn will fix that no problem. I been known to tighten it down out of the way completely too, where I didn't want the safety used.
Strangely enough I lost a Leek out in the snow for 3 weeks before being revealed by the rain in a puddle where it been run over a few times by trucks. It didn't really have any rust on the thing at all and worked fine after a good cleaning.
Strangely enough I lost a Leek out in the snow for 3 weeks before being revealed by the rain in a puddle where it been run over a few times by trucks. It didn't really have any rust on the thing at all and worked fine after a good cleaning.
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I have a ton of Torx bits, I just couldn't tell if it was or not. It almost looked like a stripped Allen, honestly. I guess when the new piece arrives I will look into it closer.
Thanks!
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I do what he said but if you want it fixed for good use that green side. It will give you a nice satin finish and no more rust spots. It will change the look of the blade but on a user who really cares. I do this to all of my users that are bead blasted. 1000 grit sand paper will also help with rust spots but it will give you a almost polished look.
Its' not the product guy , it's the method if finishing. Beadblasting tends to rust if not cared for constantly.
The idea is to polish off the beadblast which is what was discussed.
dougo83 go to Home Depot and buy the torx set by Husky. It is 6 bucks or less and has 8 sizes of the most common torx and will last you a long time if you take care of it. I have had my older one for 5-6 years now. forget Wiha and their overpriced nonsense.
Tostig
You make a distinction between the "product" and the method the manufacturer used to finish it?
Send it back -- a knife that rusts in 11 days is a turkey.
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Surface rust doesn't hurt the functionality of the blade at all. Just clean it up. (Which takes all of a couple minutes).
You're basically saying that a semi-dull blade makes the blade scrap.
Tostig had it right, a beadblast finish is one that you have to look after.
It is simply amazing how defensive some people are in regard to a manufacturer making a product that rusts so easily.
Would you accept "surface rust" on an 11 day old car? Or any other product?
No customer should have to put up with that -- particularly when the maker has a reputation for QC and taking care of the consumer.
Would you accept "surface rust" on an 11 day old car? Or any other product?
No customer should have to put up with that -- particularly when the maker has a reputation for QC and taking care of the consumer.
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A car is entirely different than a knife. The cost range is completely different than that of a knife. The functionality of the car is completely different than that of a knife. The treatment process (paint type) given to the car is completely different than that of a knife.
Yes they have a reputation for QC and taking care of the customer. They don't leave the factory with rust. Just because the customer takes his knife to a place with high humidity or sweats on the blade since his pockets are moist doesn't mean that QC was up to snuff in the first place. That's the nature of a beadblast finish.
Some have issues with rust, some don't. One simply disregarding the steel because he is unwilling to take proper care / understand how to properly maintain his blade is just ridiculous. Kershaw upgraded their Sandvik steel do help with corrosion resistance as well as edge retention and didn't raise the MSRP. THAT'S taking care of the customer.
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That's why they call it the mafia.
Seriously, the link to Thomas W.'s post above clarified it for me. If you want a non-rusting Kershaw, buy one a coated one or one of the "boutique" runs in an upgraded steel non bead blast finish -- unless you live in Arizona (or Michigan, apparently) where the humidity is low enough to avoid rust.
Blaming the customer for his knife rusting within 11 days and then telling him it's his job to fix it, well, let's all hope that the manufacturer has a better response than that.
And if rusting within days is the very nature of beadblast finish, maybe those products should come with a warning. Or maybe they shouldn't be made at all.