Question on Bluing Processes

Oxpho as a liquid may be a violent poison (?), but that says nothing about the (probably?) inert surface of the metal after treatment. Folks have been using carbon steel blades for food prep for a few hundred years now, wiping the blood and fat off on their pants/tunic/shirt/dead leaves,etc.
 
After several hours of chemistry today, I suppose the title of this should be "Passivation Processes you like or recommend"
All the bits and pieces are out there, finding them is the trick.

On food prep, I can be fairly certain this won't be a concern for me. I'm kind of funny about that kind of thing so it's SS or if I pull a Busse out to show off cause the wife is shopping, it'll be a satin or CF Infi blade and not something that's been chopping on stuff outside.

So basically what I've learned, we want to create a barrier for corrosion resistance which also aids in other properties of wear resistance, durability. I'm going to guess these are properties exhibited when applied in the proper application on a scale within their capabilities. Not so much on a knife.

I want the corrosion properties and I want aesthetics. I've got the first part figured out somewhat but still working on the other~I'm getting warmer I think.
 
I have a crazy thought I'm looking for inspiration on how to solve- I'm going to try this hot vinegar method as a first step on some sr101 - I'm of the belief I want to hang this blade in the solution which creates a problem- Do you realize how hard it is to find something tall enough, in the right materials, able to withstand the temperature to hang even a 6" bladed knife? Since it needs to be a foot tall?

I'm explaining to the Mrs what I want to do, stinking the kitchen up with hot vinegar and she goes "Oh, I know what will work and out comes a Pyrex casserole dish "lay it on it's side" but I'm afraid of having marks or something from whatever it's rested on. So first she takes 2 dixie cup and cuts them up with scissors and goes "2 little pedestals for you knife thingy" thinking she's all over it I said "No, don't think so, they are coated in wax, the hot Vin will dissolves the wax and I'm afraid that will cause a problem" Then I hear "Hey I figured it out" here's 2 plastic measuring cups upside down with the blade resting on the handles. I said "yeah, I don't know, I'm afraid it might leave marks or something: ... tip guys, this was the wrong approach, I wasn't creative enough in my dealing with this situation because this was followed up with "Well I don't know what to tell you. You've spent thousands on these knives and you have to do this so they don't rust? I can't believe you have to go through all of this .censored..censored....censored/// more censoring........" and I hang my head and say "no honey, this wasn't an expensive knife and I'm just trying to make it different than the other one I have" ..... with which she replies "the other one? you really think I'm that stupid? There's more than one" .... she just walked by smiling and smacked my backside and said "you know what's next month right? don't forget" ..... *birthday and I never forget*

So I'm in a spot - maybe a trip to the Dollar store to look for plastic containers is all I got left so if there's a bright idea out there I'm all ears!
 
Leo - needing some results here bub! go buy a bubba keg!!!

Just messing, mostly...
 
PVC pipe, one end capped. Will the PVC adhesive, once cured/set, stand up to the heat of the vinegar?

If not, do you really need to do both ends at the same time? That could shorten your requirement by 6”.
 
PVC Pipe is my go to container for all etching chemicals....Tip: Buy 2 and fill one with Windex used to neutralize the acid.

2" PVC with one end capped and one with a collar for a screw on top you can etch and empty or just keep it capped until the next use.;);):thumbsup:
 
Busto said:
PVC Pipe is my go to container for all etching chemicals....Tip: Buy 2 and fill one with Windex used to neutralize the acid.

2" PVC with one end capped and one with a collar for a screw on top you can etch and empty or just keep it capped until the next use.;);):thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Great stuff...
 
OK, thought about the PVC option and sounds like the way to go- Scales are off fwiw` and I was able to make them look pretty cool, well, as good as you can with paper bag brown micarta- I'll put them back on Busse style, you'll never know I took them off.
 
Leonardo63 said:
OK, thought about the PVC option and sounds like the way to go- Scales are off fwiw` and I was able to make them look pretty cool, well, as good as you can with paper bag brown micarta- I'll put them back on Busse style, you'll never know I took them off.
Click to expand...

Keep us posted! Very excited to see how this goes...I would love to do this on one particular piece of satin and already patina'ed SR101 I have...
 
Yeah I'm looking forward to it too- The older I get the more interesting the unknowns become LOL! Making a Lowe's run at lunchtime~
I've read till my brain hurts and watched so much video I can't learn anymore, it's time to do.
 
Leonardo63 said:
OK, thought about the PVC option and sounds like the way to go- Scales are off fwiw` and I was able to make them look pretty cool, well, as good as you can with paper bag brown micarta- I'll put them back on Busse style, you'll never know I took them off.
Click to expand...
Oh, man. That is going to be worthy of its own post. Always wanted to see how guys go about putting the scales back on with tube fasteners.
 
clampdaddy said:
Oh, man. That is going to be worthy of its own post. Always wanted to see how guys go about putting the scales back on with tube fasteners.
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That's easy stuff. I've already done a few, not that hard with the right tools. I bought the proper anvils and arbor press and the rest is trial and error on how long to make the tubes. I have an assortment of tube material, I use precision tolerance seamless SS in a few different grades~ a lot easier than you think and boy do they really hold. I don't know exactly what Busse uses but from drilling them out, what I'm using is a lot harder. Wall thickness makes a bit of difference too, I have tried 4 different thicknesses but I've found middle of the pack works best.

I got a piece of 3" pvc and a fitting that takes a threaded plug so when it's glued up will stand flat. All the caps I came across were domed which won't work.
 
Leonardo63 said:
That's easy stuff. I've already done a few, not that hard with the right tools. I bought the proper anvils and arbor press and the rest is trial and error on how long to make the tubes. I have an assortment of tube material, I use precision tolerance seamless SS in a few different grades~ a lot easier than you think and boy do they really hold. I don't know exactly what Busse uses but from drilling them out, what I'm using is a lot harder. Wall thickness makes a bit of difference too, I have tried 4 different thicknesses but I've found middle of the pack works best.

I got a piece of 3" pvc and a fitting that takes a threaded plug so when it's glued up will stand flat. All the caps I came across were domed which won't work.
Click to expand...
I've always wondered how someone would go about getting the length of the tubes right the first time.
 
clampdaddy said:
I've always wondered how someone would go about getting the length of the tubes right the first time.
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trial and error :D ~ I won't lie, I've drilled out more than not. But lay out a pile of knifes and look at them all real close- it's not rocket science. The first mistake most anyone will do is cutting too short, they look much better when they are almost too long and you think "no way in hell this will work" and it turns out perfect, that's been my experience.
Here's a set I did after I dyed my canvas
https://www.bladeforums.com/attachments/tgmdyedndone-jpg.851575/
 
One trick on setting the tubes is not to apply pressure to one side ONLY....Set the first side with light pressure then flip the knife over and set second side which should give you equal flares in the flared holes. I have found that the Seamless Stainless Tubing in .028 wall thickness gives the best flare without deformation.
 
Just messing around here at work I used the center pilots from a couple gear pullers in our arbor press and then in a vice to try to flare some pieces of quarter inch stainless brake line. I couldn't get it to work. When I would apply pressure they would start to flare and then kick out sideways.
 
I use a top and bottom anvil and do it in one stroke. The tricky part is keeping everything centered - with 3 hands piece of cake LOL! Oh, and got to tilt your head jst right and twist your tongue to the left.

Busto said:
I have found that the Seamless Stainless Tubing in .028 wall thickness gives the best flare without deformation.
Click to expand...
That's what I like too. I'm able to get a nice flare and lay the edge down nice. I've got 2 thicker and one size thinner, it's really amazing how much more force that thick walled stuff takes. I'm going to try thicker stuff on one project and then counterbore it for a nice CS look. My experiments so far impressed me how they turned out. Then I took some polish on a felt cone on the Dremel and make em shine. I'm happy with my testing results.
 
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I put the calipers to that brake line I was trying to do. I wonder if the .0385 wall thickness is why I couldn' get it done. I tried annealing the end of one and it helped a little but still a no go.
 
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