Questions about milwalkee deep cut saw and its ability to cut out blanks.

J

JZknives

Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Messages
204
I recently bought a swag offroad table and Im going to buy the saw tomorrow for it.

My questions are about the blades that i need to use for the bandsaw. Im not sure if the saw has any blades that come with it.

so here are my questions

1. What type of blades should I get if im going to cut out knife blanks out of annealed steel? Are there certain steels that like particular blades more?

2. What type of blades should i get if im going to cut out handle materials? or will it work fine with the metal blades?

3. what is the maximum thickness material this saw can cut with the appropriate blades? Can i cut out bolster and guard materials from thick barstock copper/nickelsilver/brass ect?
 
You want Bi-metal blades. Lenox makes very good ones. A tooth size of 24TPI works well. You can easily cut 1/4" steel with a portaband. Handle materials will cut with the same blade used for metal, or you can use a 14-18TPI blade for wood.
 
Lenox has blades that are made of m42. These are the best blades they make for the portaband. Look on the lenox site to read up on tooth count and material thickness recommendations. The Milwaukee does not come with blades.
 
I recently bought a Dewalt deep cut and the Swag table. Had it for a month now. You are gonna luv that outfit! The Lennox blades are the way to go. They work very well and are reasonable in price. I can buy them locally too which is a bonus. I have found myself using this setup for cutting many things way beyond my original intentions of just blade steel. Pins, bolster material, Mammoth Ivory and Tooth, spacer material and lots of things that have nothing to do with knives. I had originally planned on setting it up, using it and then putting it away until needed again to save bench space. That lasted for about a day. Its just too darn handy. Have it set up all the time now. I have a pack of 18 tpi blades and they have worked well for me on the steels I have cut (damascus, 1084, 416 stainless) as well as everything else.
 
I just set it up , i got "milwalkee" brand blades (14 tpi and 24 tpi) because thats all HD had. I dont want to turn it on because it looks so good.
 
either both my blades are dull and im not doing this right , or these milwalkee blades are garbage
 
Or to add to Stacy's Question,
Are they In side out? This makes the teeth point in the wrong direction.
Sincerely,
Dave
 
you can't find 32 teeth blades?? that would be the way to go. and that person is right you want to use it on slow speed to cut. if it is a portaband you cant put the blade on backwards. it will only go on one way.
 
Last edited:
The blades can be turned inside out and the teeth will be running backwards. Used to do it just to mess with people. The teeth should point towards the table, if not grab both ends of the loop and roll the blade inside out. You should be able to cut a bunch of annealed steel with a blade. I will second the Lennox blades.
 
The blade is pointed so that the flat part of the tooth is hitting metal first and the angled part is facing the ceiling.
 
A few photos would help us knownifthe setup is ok.get some Lennox blades. Lowes doesn't carry the m42 blades but those would likely be an upgrade.
 
JZknives said:
I recently bought a swag offroad table and Im going to buy the saw tomorrow for it.

My questions are about the blades that i need to use for the bandsaw. Im not sure if the saw has any blades that come with it.

so here are my questions

1. What type of blades should I get if im going to cut out knife blanks out of annealed steel? Are there certain steels that like particular blades more?

2. What type of blades should i get if im going to cut out handle materials? or will it work fine with the metal blades?

3. what is the maximum thickness material this saw can cut with the appropriate blades? Can i cut out bolster and guard materials from thick barstock copper/nickelsilver/brass ect?
Click to expand...

richard thurman said:
you can't find 32 teeth blades?? that would be the way to go. and that person is right you want to use it on slow speed to cut. if it is a portaband you cant put the blade on backwards. it will only go on one way.
Click to expand...

i have some of those blades I got from Home Depot here.
It's nice having some I can buy in a store and not have to mail order even if we do pay $10 each

They are good Bi metal blades

The rule of thumb is 3 teeth in the work, 3/ (1/8) = 24 for eigth inch stock
3/ (1/4) = 12 TPI

I like the 18 TPI blades
You may see value in finer teeth if you are cutting fine liner materials, but 18 is a nice compromise for me.

The portabands are already geared slow, I use the higest speed on the HF, no trouble on annealed steel

Mabe your saw will run faster than that for plastics, what SFPM is listed in your manual?
Can you find a manual online ?

It is possible to have the blade upsidedown as Jim explains well above.

It sounds like you have it oriented correctly.
I check by running my finger both ways, you can really tell which way will bite.

I suspect the 440c you have has been air hardened.

Have you tried cutting with other mild steel or other materials?
 
Jim Viall is right on this.

Take a band saw blade that is opened into a circle and mark the out side.
If the teeth are going the proper direction it is the way you want.
If the teeth are going the wrong direction the blade is inside out.
With gloves on role the blade so the mark is on the inside. You will find the teeth are now going the correct direction.
We used some expensive blades. If a operator puts one on inside out it ruined the blade real fast.
For fun try turning one inside out to prove the point. Please reverse it back so you do not ruin the blade later.
This point could also be long in the Tip's Thread.
Sincerely,
Dave
 
the more teeth the better the cut. when I buy saw blades I always try for 32 teeth if they are not to be had then 24 teeth.
 
JZknives said:
The blade is pointed so that the flat part of the tooth is hitting metal first and the angled part is facing the ceiling.
Click to expand...

That sounds right.

How thick is the metal?
Is the metal hardened?
Is the saw running slow?
Will it cut some soft material like brass or micarta?
 
I also have the HF saw with milwaukee blades and it works great on aldos 1084. I also run it full speed because full is not all that fast. Keep in mind that they cut slow and dont expect them to cut through steel like a table saw through wood. Is it slow or just not cutting at all?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top