Questions about my First Knife

[coldsteelburns]

It shouldn't take you that long to file a full flat grind on that blade, just make sure you draw file the bevels in, and make sure to use a mill file, not a bastard, otherwise it'll take forever to get the scratches out from the more agressive cutting. Also when you draw file, you'll be tempted to use the corner of the file to "rip" more material off, but don't do this, it'll leave deep gouges so make sure to only use the face of the file and keep it flat. When draw filing you want to hold the tang of the file in your left hand and pull torwards you for it to cut correctly and most efficiently. When they say they "too shallow" they're talking about the bevel not going high enough up the blade. Hope that helps out some
-Paul

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www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed

 

[Overmountain]

Exactly, not far enough up the blade is what I meant. We have all done it... Thick feels heavy and sturdy, just remember its a knife not an axe or machete...
I agree with using files for your work until you get a feel for a grind. I still go to the files when explorjng something new. Harbor freight grinders have their place, but I would wait until you can explore the craftsman 2x42 at the least... a real adjustable speed 2x72 at the best... The 2x42 will get you in the ballgame, but the speed is way up there, platen horrible, and they make the fastest mistakes I have ever seen. In retrospect I would have stuck to files a while longer, skipped the 2x42 and not thrown away as many mistakes...
Good luck, this is so far the most addicting/expensive hobby I have ever had... and I fly fish...

 

[phil927]

So I was looking for your thoughts on what I have done so far. I have filed the bevels up to about half way on the knife, like someone posted. I think this really makes it look better, thanks. Would you heat treat now, or wait until I have filed an edge to the blade? At the moment the blade edge is about the thickness of a dime. What would be your next step? I think I might file a little more to make a grind more 3/4 of the blade.

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I know there are a lot of pictures, but wanted to give a clear idea of what it looked like. I'm sure I will have more questions later, but thanks for sticking with me.

-Phil

 

[Overmountain]

I would say you are on the right track. File at least 3/4 up the blade. You want a nice gentle taper. Flat grinds are better all around IMHO than the convex you are getting so far. I discovered to get a workable convex that didn't want to act like an axe I had to literally start at the spine with the gentle curve of the grind. Of the grinds I do I think it is the one I do best, but took a helluva lot of praftice to get it smooth, even, and really functional. I do it free now though on a slack belt like its second nature. With a flat grind it is easy to see exactly what angles you are playing with.
I would smooth out the curves and finish the shape as much as possible before HT. You can go about a third of a dime on the edge, but not sharp, prior to HT. The cleaner and smoother, the better. If you are HT, what method are you using? If professionally done you can get it nearly done as it will come back very much like you send it...
For an idea of grind angles, thickness, etc... I tend to shoot for about 1/2 stock thickness at 1/3 blade width from the edge as a minimum... keeping in mind to leave that 1/3 dime thickness for the final edge angle which can be dialed on for the intended purpose. For a chopper, steeper combjned angle as it is more robust, a slicer, less so. Remember the body of the blade has to do two things after the cut. It has to separate the material and pass through it with ease. For finesse cutting this requires thin angles as the cutting force and speed will be low. For a chopper it can be steep as the force is greater and speed is higher.
Try this... take a tub or bucket of water and put the knife in tip first about 1/2 way in. Smoothly pull the knife through the water keeping the blade vertical and edfe forward. Provided the water is still the 'wake' coming off the knife will give you an idea of how proficient your overall grind is at separating the material. A smooth nearly wakeless result is great for almost anything but a chopper or fighter.
I hope that makes sense. It is what I did to visualize it early on, and hopefully isn't totally in left field.
Cheers, congrats on the progress thus far...

 

[HwangJino]

Awesome project!

I would be so happy to have the tools to makey own knives...

 

[phil927]

Thanks so much! I will definatly work on the bevel/grind and post up some more pictures as I finish. I had planned on ht myself, but what places will do it? I am open to it if it isn't super expensive.

 

[phil927]

Awesome project!

I would be so happy to have the tools to makey own knives...

You know, when I decided to try making knives a month or so ago, I thought the same thing after reading some of the posts here. People talked about grizzly belt grinders and heat treating kilns and I thought that I could never afford a thousand dollar setup like that. But I bought a small piece of flat 01 stock from amazon, cut to shape with a bandsaw and have been using a five dollar mill file from amazon ever since. Now I haven't finished and it takes a good few hours to slowly file off metal, but I am hoping it will be all worth it in the end. Would be faster with a belt sander and if I do get one, it will be the one sears sells, I think about a hundred bucks. Anyway, thought I would try and encourage a fellow beginner!
-Phil

 

[Extegelsosove]

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[Overmountain]

There are several reputable HT sources out there, as well as several members here that will do an excellent job for a bargain. You can google steel heat treat services or look in service offered section here.
If you were planning on doing it yourself my advice would be to find a tried and true method, and have some spare steel thag you can try a few things with if at all possible. I feel fairly comfortable with most of my steel these days, but with anything new I will take a piece or five of scrap and anneal, normalize, sub-crit, HT, temper, basically anything I might be doing metallurgically to a blade and test the scrap to destruction. This gives a good idea of the expected outcome. I know this isn't always feasible, in that case stick as close as possible to a prescribed plan.
If going pro, your blade should return nearly clean of any surface crap and straight. If doing it yourself allow for the little bit of grinding the steel will need after picking up scale/decarb, etc. It should be easy to remove, but an extra couple thousandths buffer is nice to have. Make sure you have a plan of action for straightening any warping, and a nice big lid close by to cover the entire quench vessel in the event of a surface fire.
Good luck! HT is a great thing to get comfortable with and worth learning as you progress. I say give it a whack on your own. The blade looks good, take the same deliberate and careful approach and you will do fine...