quick look: 2011 Cold Steel large Voyager PE

Instead of creating a new thread just for a few photos, here are mine. This is the new XL (5-1/2" blade) Voyager in plain edge clip point.

Closed...
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With a Spyderco Resilience for size comparison...
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For reference, my glove size is XL...
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The two finger grooves in the rear allow you to choke back for more reach...
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This is what the blade looks like in real life with it's stonewashed finish...
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I assumed they were steel too, but thats neither here nor there. :thumbup:

Thanks JN for those pics of the XL. I'm going to have to add one of those to the arsenal someday, just on general principles. Not everyone is allowed to own a piece of knife like that.
 
JNieporte,

Does the blade inertia open like the old X2s? Those things would open if you just winked at them!
 
blade man said:
JNieporte,

Does the blade inertia open like the old X2s? Those things would open if you just winked at them!
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I had an X2 voyager, and sadly, no it doesn't. The new Voyagers all have the Tri-Ad lock, which is more robust. The thumb stud is also a little small for my liking, considering the blade is 5-1/2" long. I'm seriously considering drilling a 1/2" hole like a Spyderco.
 
Just a little off topic, but can any post pics of coldsteel knives (ak-47, recon 1, lawman) being clipped onto the pocket? i'm looking for a tough(coldsteel), good value(coldsteel), indestructable(coldsteel) knife, that doesn't show off too much when clipped to the pocket.
 
Cool thanks for the pics everyone. I'm really intrigued by the aluminum liners, should prevent corrosion of the liners and add strength without weight. I'm gonna have to pick up...I think the 4" clip point. That's a nice looking blade
 
mlanghornes said:
Cool thanks for the pics everyone. I'm really intrigued by the aluminum liners, should prevent corrosion of the liners and add strength without weight. I'm gonna have to pick up...I think the 4" clip point. That's a nice looking blade
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Quite the opposite. Aluminum in contact with stainless steel form a galvanic couple, driving corrosion in the Aluminum. And, while 6061 is relatively corrosion resistant sitting by itself, all bets are off if it is in contact with the stainless steel parts of the knife. Stainless steel liners would have been better.
 
I am going to pass on the Aus 8 Voyager. I like the new handle, the old handle was NOT ergonomic The old lock-back was fine as well as the blade profile and finish. In my opinion the VG-1 is what set this knife apart from the rest of the 50.00 folders. I will patiently wait for a 6" tanto in VG-1.:grumpy:
 
knarfeng said:
Quite the opposite. Aluminum in contact with stainless steel form a galvanic couple, driving corrosion in the Aluminum. And, while 6061 is relatively corrosion resistant sitting by itself, all bets are off if it is in contact with the stainless steel parts of the knife.
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I didn't know this. One lives and learns. :thumbup:
 
Like JNieporte, I'll throw in my .02 without creating a new thread.

I am a huge fan of the direction CS has been going of late. I own the large version of the clip point plain edge version, and it has really raised the bar for the 40-60 dollar range folding knife. Beautiful stonewashed CS heat-treated FFG AUS8 (you can't expect much more in this price range) in a very functional non-tacticool clip point, with very smooth action (unlike earlier Tri-ad models that were too stiff), very grippy Grivory texturing, famously strong lock, all for around 40 dollars shipped "internet price".

IMHO, this blows away the tenacious series, BM's red class, SOG's flash/aegis/trident line-up, CRKT's entire lineup, and many others. I mean, I think it is fascinating that you could get this knife for less than some POS S&W's out there! If anybody can hope to compete at this price range, they have got to seriously offer a whole lot.

The only other knives, I think, that are still worth getting in the price range would be the Spyderco Native, and the Buck Vantage Pro, and only because they offer a steel upgrade.

Finally, I can recommend a solid dependable knife to my non-knife-nut buddies at 40 bucks!
 
I ordered a 4" clippoint PE 2 days ago. I'll post my own impressions after I receive it but really, the price of that thing is just silly. A 3.5 mm thick 4" long full flat ground blade with a Tri-Ad lock for $37? Are they kidding? How can this knife not be even better than a Tenacious or a Rat 1?
 
philwar said:
I ordered a 4" clippoint PE 2 days ago. I'll post my own impressions after I receive it but really, the price of that thing is just silly. A 3.5 mm thick 4" long full flat ground blade with a Tri-Ad lock for $37? Are they kidding? How can this knife not be even better than a Tenacious or a Rat 1?
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Exactly.. I was just browsing the "Center of the internet" and they listed the CRKT M16-14SF (lock downgrade, same steel quality) for around 90 bucks shipped!!! That is 2x the price of the large voyager!

I think all other companies that have some sort of budget/entry line will have to upgrade or offer something different to stay competitive. That's good for us the consumer
 
knarfeng said:
Quite the opposite. Aluminum in contact with stainless steel form a galvanic couple, driving corrosion in the Aluminum. And, while 6061 is relatively corrosion resistant sitting by itself, all bets are off if it is in contact with the stainless steel parts of the knife. Stainless steel liners would have been better.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that only apply if it is in contact?
The Voyager has phosphor bronze bushings correct?
So the bushings should be separating the contact, therefore no galvanic corrosion.
 
I have the Voyager XL and really like it alot. Do wish the blade came polished though. Good review powernoodle, and nice polish job on your blade. What did you use to achieve that kind of finish?
 
Acesn8s said:
I have the Voyager XL and really like it alot. Do wish the blade came polished though. Good review powernoodle, and nice polish job on your blade. What did you use to achieve that kind of finish?
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I can't speak for powernoodle, but this is what I do to polish any stonewash blade:
1. Take the blade out. While the knife is apart, you can clean and polish (see below) the liners and lockbar.
2. Using polish (Flitz, simichrome, etc.) and a clean piece of cotton, apply the polish. A dime-sized dab is enough for both sides of the 5-1/2" Voyager blade. Spread it evenly.
3. Being very careful to not cut yourself, use even, stiff pressure to work the polish in the metal. You're rubbing it in, not wiping it off.
4. Continue, but as you see the polish disappearing, work on getting the finish even. Now you're working on making it all disappear.
5. Reapply the polish if the blade isn't as shiny as you want it. Repeat steps 2-4.
6. Once you're happy with the shine, dry the parts that you polished. Use a tiny bit of lubricant (I use Tuff Glide) on those parts. Let it sit for a minute, then lightly wipe off.
7. Reassemble the knife.
 
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