Random Thought Thread

carnifex knifeworks said:
My buddies do not take very good care of their knives. If you have a knife with a small amount of rust and some very minor pitting on the grip, how do you remove that?
I have a few methods I use, but was wondering if anyone knew of anything easier than what I do
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What Padruig above stated usually works well. If it is more rusted, PB Penetrating Catalyst spray is pretty amazing for rust removal.

Edited to add that you can spray some on a paper towel and apply with a Q-tip to avoid getting it on any handle material.
 
It is a beautiful evening tonight, rain free and almost balmy. I think I am going to have a smoke and whittle on a 2x4.


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I'm grateful to have been born in Canada, and to be a lifelong citizen of this country.
A little bummed to have to be seeing political talk about Canada, I thought politics was a no go zone around here🤔
 
Sagandavis said:
I think it’s 5 ninja swords
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I knew about the swords but then I saw some posts about Shivs being available. Just selling 5 swords seems like you're leaving money on the table. With these savages, they come loaded with cash, checks, credit cards, bullion, and all manner of exchange. I need to know so I sell my baseball cards. :)
 
El_Bribon said:
I knew about the swords but then I saw some posts about Shivs being available. Just selling 5 swords seems like you're leaving money on the table. With these savages, they come loaded with cash, checks, credit cards, bullion, and all manner of exchange. I need to know so I sell my baseball cards. :)
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Shiv 2.0 is just starting to trickle out from the preorders. The CPK crew does tend to put out knives in Friday sales even before preorders are completely fulfilled so keep your eye out. Whatever info Nathan puts in the “Next Sale” thread is your best bet to know if you have a (slim) chance at something the second the clock strikes.

CPKs are coveted and tough to get but if you’re a little patient and/or willing to pay you can get your hands on almost anything that tickles your fancy. Preorder is the only way to insure you get what you want but even those windows are small but you’d typically have a minute or 2 instead of a millisecond like a Friday sale 😜
 
My sister lives in Ontario and her family are proud folks of the Ojibwa-Cree nation. I absolutely love their life and am deeply envious at times. Their sense of community, culture, and outdoors sense and sustainability is an absolute marvel. I need to go up and visit them far more often.
 
Blues said:
Nathan is following in the footsteps of the Japanese masters of yore. When a wakizashi was damaged or otherwise no longer viable, they frequently cut it down to a tanto. Nothing went to waste if it could be otherwise put to use.

I learned most of what I know about these blades from Sava Damlovac, ABS Master Smith and long time collector of historic Japanese blades.

Beautiful work Nathan (and Mark).
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Similar practices throughout history and cultures, for sure. The Scots were known to repurpose their broken swords into dirks and such and the "Vikings" would often do the same with their swords and seax blades. Steel, being the expensive commodity it was, certainly wasn't wasted if it could be helped.

With that said, Nathan, after you are done making the matching tanto for your nottakatana, will you make me a matching Scottish basket hilted broadsword and dirk set or a "Viking" longsword and seax? A set of each?


Tongue firmly planted in cheek, of course. Unless.... there's a chance... 😁


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Pàdruig said:
I don't get fancy. I use the same method that I do when cleaning surface rust from guns - Rem Oil and #0000 steel wool. It doesn't do anything for more extensive pitting but it cleans off all the red stuff and removes anything that can be felt by touch.

I think my DEK3 got put away dirty awhile back. I can't recall if it was my fault or my son's but it is my problem regardless. It got some nice peppering on the swedge that I had to clean up - it's just added character now.
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beeinak said:
What Padruig above stated usually works well. If it is more rusted, PB Penetrating Catalyst spray is pretty amazing for rust removal.

Edited to add that you can spray some on a paper towel and apply with a Q-tip to avoid getting it on any handle material.
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Thanks for the replies. Basically the same stuff I do.
I'm going to tell them to put some Vaseline under the scales so it doesn't rust again.
 
carnifex knifeworks said:
Thanks for the replies. Basically the same stuff I do.
I'm going to tell them to put some Vaseline under the scales so it doesn't rust again.
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Personally, I’ve been really impressed with these nano ceramic automotive protectants available nowadays.

Used both Mothers CMX and TurtleWax Hybrid. Even on vehicles exposed to the elements, they last a long time (MUCH more durable than old school carnauba wax). Very easy to apply, and doesn’t leave any kind of sticky or oily residue.

Under the handle scales, I’d think an application or 2 would pretty much protect the tang forever.
 
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