Random Thought Thread

I've never visited China, but I'm positive that I'll skip the mountain tour if I ever go there.

https://www.boredpanda.com/worlds-most-dangerous-hiking-trail-huashan-mountain-china/

hiking-trail-huashan-mountain-china-12.jpg
 
AR-Trvlr said:
Is it worth the effort to revive/recreate the original Shiv WIP thread? https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/advanced-knife-machining-wip-pointy-fighter.1048443/

I think I can still get to the pictures and was thinking of copying out all of the text and posting it all in a new thread that the encyclopedia linked to. Would that be useful?
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I would love that, one of my all-time favorite BF threads. Until a few month ago, half the pictures were still visible. None today, as far as I can tell.
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Yeah. Sigh. 😬

As I've recently learned due to issues with the A/C on the 2015 Forester my son bought last month, Subies are known for A/C problems. I was seriously like, "WTF???" How the hell does such a large, mainstream manufacturer have a problem with such a simple system like the A/C, which have been in cars for SO long!!! Seriously??? 😑

At least in our case, I can easily see where the leak is at (high side pipe where it goes into the compressor), and that o-ring is the known culprit. A $2 o-ring, vaccuum out the lines (there's zero pressure), and charge with R-134A and a little PAG oil, and should hopefully be good... (knock on wood) I will be pretty pissed off if there's more to it than that!


They really have gone nuts! The worse part is there's no excuse for them to remain SO dang high! Have you looked at prices on USED PARTS lately??? That's a serious kick in the nads!!! Complete and utter garbage! :poop:
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Jsega51 said:
I’m way behind on this discussion but the reason why it’s so expensive is they replace the entire compressor unit, fluids, etc. (this was the case on the 13 Forester) .The easy thing to check is start the car with the hood open, turn the A/C on and check to see if the A/C condenser pulley is spinning, its bearing style so the outside always spins with the belt, it’s the inside portion that has a spring clutch and should engage when the compressor needs to kick on.

If the clutch isn’t working, you can actually remove the middle screw and add a little shim or two (they wear down over time so when the compressor kicks on, there’s a little too much slop on the shaft for everything to grab together), or you can also replace the entire clutch pulley which is what I did because it was grinding, the actual bearing was shot. I found it online pretty cheap and the only tool I needed to borrow was a smaller sized bearing puller. If you need/want help just reach out and I can explain it better!

Here’s the post I made the day I fixed it:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/random-thought-thread.1507196/post-21541934
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The compressor on my son's 2015 Forester won't "turn on" due to current lack of pressure in the system. That said, the center part spins freely, and I can activate the clutch manually (with the engine stopped) so I'm hoping there's no issues with it once we fix the leak, vacuum out and repressurize the system.
 
SpyderPhreak said:
The compressor on my son's 2015 Forester won't "turn on" due to current lack of pressure in the system. That said, the center part spins freely, and I can activate the clutch manually (with the engine stopped) so I'm hoping there's no issues with it once we fix the leak, vacuum out and repressurize the system.
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Or ...


...you know...

Just re-pressurize the system...

You can buy lots of those little can-kits at AutoZone for the cost of bringing it in. I had a truck like that once. I would just top it off every summer. It's a ten year old car. *shrug*
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Or ...


...you know...

Just re-pressurize the system...

You can buy lots of those little can-kits at AutoZone for the cost of bringing it in. I had a truck like that once. I would just top it off every summer. It's a ten year old car. *shrug*
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100% doing this myself! 👍 I avoid dealers/shops if at all possible. I can replace the compressor too if it comes to that. I do any work possible on my vehicles for two reasons. One, I know it's done right. Two, I don't like getting bent over... ;)

In this case, since there's no pressure in the system (zero, none), and we have to pull a line off the compressor to replace the leaky o-ring (so there'd be no pressure after that anyway), we really should pull a vacuum on the lines and add some PAG oil prior to re-pressurizing the system (yes, with those can kits). If you don't pull vacuum first, you risk moisture in the system and that can really eff things up! Easy DIY job, no major fancy tools needed.
 
My mother's tractor has some problems on the block where it mates to the head. Apparently the oil and water lines are flaked and no longer flat. I'm guessing probably corrosion I don't know I haven't seen it. But my brother is wanting me, the machinist in the family, to bore those openings out and press a piece of metal in there and deck the thing flat so there's a surface for the head gasket to seal against. The cylinders themselves have good compression it's just oil and water leaks cuz there's material missing there. For whatever reason.

We should just scrap this whole stupid thing....

But it's her John Deere tractor so...

So here's the thing. My question for the common wisdom here on the forum:

He wants me to buy some cast iron to press into this cast iron block. Which makes great sense.

But I would like to use steel for two reasons. I think it's good enough, and Mom's 81 and she's probably going to die before she uses this thing 10 more times.

Do y'all think I need to find some cast iron to make these inserts that are going to be pressed into the cast iron block for the oil and water galleys into the head, or do you think steel would be good enough?
 
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