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https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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I'm assuming an annulus of some sort? What are the approximate dimensions? My fear with using cast iron, is that a press fit, enough to seal well with a thin cross-section, could cause cracking in the new piece (if a thin annulus).My mother's tractor has some problems on the block where it mates to the head. Apparently the oil and water lines are flaked and no longer flat. I'm guessing probably corrosion I don't know I haven't seen it. But my brother is wanting me, the machinist in the family, to bore those openings out and press a piece of metal in there and deck the thing flat so there's a surface for the head gasket to seal against. The cylinders themselves have good compression it's just oil and water leaks cuz there's material missing there. For whatever reason.
We should just scrap this whole stupid thing....
But it's her John Deere tractor so...
So here's the thing. My question for the common wisdom here on the forum:
He wants me to buy some cast iron to press into this cast iron block. Which makes great sense.
But I would like to use steel for two reasons. I think it's good enough, and Mom's 81 and she's probably going to die before she uses this thing 10 more times.
Do y'all think I need to find some cast iron to make these inserts that are going to be pressed into the cast iron block for the oil and water galleys into the head, or do you think steel would be good enough?
annulus
Haha! AKA ring or (hollow) cylinder.Thank you I learned a new word today
I'm going to see how many times I can use it tomorrow
Thank you sir, I definitely looked up the definition lolHaha! AKA ring or (hollow) cylinder.
I'm going to see how many times I can use it tomorrow
My patient's annulus won't stop bleedingThank you I learned a new word today
I'm going to see how many times I can use it tomorrow
My mother's tractor has some problems on the block where it mates to the head. Apparently the oil and water lines are flaked and no longer flat. I'm guessing probably corrosion I don't know I haven't seen it. But my brother is wanting me, the machinist in the family, to bore those openings out and press a piece of metal in there and deck the thing flat so there's a surface for the head gasket to seal against. The cylinders themselves have good compression it's just oil and water leaks cuz there's material missing there. For whatever reason.
We should just scrap this whole stupid thing....
But it's her John Deere tractor so...
So here's the thing. My question for the common wisdom here on the forum:
He wants me to buy some cast iron to press into this cast iron block. Which makes great sense.
But I would like to use steel for two reasons. I think it's good enough, and Mom's 81 and she's probably going to die before she uses this thing 10 more times.
Do y'all think I need to find some cast iron to make these inserts that are going to be pressed into the cast iron block for the oil and water galleys into the head, or do you think steel would be good enough?
That's the question. I know the numbers. I don't know the answer. They're really similar so I wouldn't think it would be a problem but I don't really know. Sometimes there's an igotcha in there you weren't expecting..I don't know much about those engines, but will the steel vs cast expanding and contracting be an issue?
thats an easy name to call people you should get a high scoreThank you I learned a new word today
I'm going to see how many times I can use it tomorrow
as long as someone other than you says so go with itAnd they tell me I’m working.View attachment 2532181
So long as he pays the bills… most of them, anyway.as long as someone other than you says so go with it
Um. You guys?
I just went down a TITANIC rabbit hole
I have never heard of someone using cast iron to repair water passages on an engine block, but that could be an old trick to fix the issue.My mother's tractor has some problems on the block where it mates to the head. Apparently the oil and water lines are flaked and no longer flat. I'm guessing probably corrosion I don't know I haven't seen it. But my brother is wanting me, the machinist in the family, to bore those openings out and press a piece of metal in there and deck the thing flat so there's a surface for the head gasket to seal against. The cylinders themselves have good compression it's just oil and water leaks cuz there's material missing there. For whatever reason.
We should just scrap this whole stupid thing....
But it's her John Deere tractor so...
So here's the thing. My question for the common wisdom here on the forum:
He wants me to buy some cast iron to press into this cast iron block. Which makes great sense.
But I would like to use steel for two reasons. I think it's good enough, and Mom's 81 and she's probably going to die before she uses this thing 10 more times.
Do y'all think I need to find some cast iron to make these inserts that are going to be pressed into the cast iron block for the oil and water galleys into the head, or do you think steel would be good enough?
Check the condenser. Common to see those leak. Also look for the dryer (usually a tube looking thing) that is part of the condenser, look at the bottom of it, if it’s covered in black sh*t it’s probably leaking. Easiest way to check for a/c leaks is with soapy water but obviously you need system pressure. The compressor on that forester, have seen a ton of them stop engaging when the car is hot. If that happens, tap the clutch with a hammer while engine running and ac on, if it engages, take the clutch off (10mm bolt) and remove one of the shims (usually see 2 shims there, remove thinner one and reinstall and recheck) between it and the pulley to narrow the gap. As long as it isn’t seized like you said I wouldn’t bother replacing the whole compressor.100% doing this myself!I avoid dealers/shops if at all possible. I can replace the compressor too if it comes to that. I do any work possible on my vehicles for two reasons. One, I know it's done right. Two, I don't like getting bent over...
In this case, since there's no pressure in the system (zero, none), and we have to pull a line off the compressor to replace the leaky o-ring (so there'd be no pressure after that anyway), we really should pull a vacuum on the lines and add some PAG oil prior to re-pressurizing the system (yes, with those can kits). If you don't pull vacuum first, you risk moisture in the system and that can really eff things up! Easy DIY job, no major fancy tools needed.
I’ve never worked on John Deere’s and without seeing it and how it is designed I can’t be sure of my response but if the block mating surface is corroded away, just deck the block…My mother's tractor has some problems on the block where it mates to the head. Apparently the oil and water lines are flaked and no longer flat. I'm guessing probably corrosion I don't know I haven't seen it. But my brother is wanting me, the machinist in the family, to bore those openings out and press a piece of metal in there and deck the thing flat so there's a surface for the head gasket to seal against. The cylinders themselves have good compression it's just oil and water leaks cuz there's material missing there. For whatever reason.
We should just scrap this whole stupid thing....
But it's her John Deere tractor so...
So here's the thing. My question for the common wisdom here on the forum:
He wants me to buy some cast iron to press into this cast iron block. Which makes great sense.
But I would like to use steel for two reasons. I think it's good enough, and Mom's 81 and she's probably going to die before she uses this thing 10 more times.
Do y'all think I need to find some cast iron to make these inserts that are going to be pressed into the cast iron block for the oil and water galleys into the head, or do you think steel would be good enough?