Random Thought Thread

You can't get all of that carbon to stay in solution and the rest of it has to go somewhere. And, without good alloying elements (or even just mediocre alloying elements like chrome) it's either going to form graphite or cementite. Neither of which are particularly good.

There's some people who love the alloy. And there are a few things that it can do that are cool, such as decorative features like the hamon. But I think it's pretty mediocre.
 
It does form a plate martensite rather than a lath martensite. (the reality is there's almost always a mix). And this microstructure does pretty well making a crisp fine edge so it is a good material for applications where a very inexpensive simple steel needs fine edge stability potential.
 
It is a brittle material and it is frequently tempered soft to improve ductility to reduce this brittle nature which kind of defeats the purpose of having such a high carbon steel that can get so hard. A maker has two choices, either don't put all the carbon into solution in the first place, or temper it back to get it back out of the martensite. They usually do the latter because the former is not easy to accomplish.

You will frequently see it used in the mid 50s, and for that, a spring steel like 5160 would outperform it.
 
Did you know that, within the chemistry specifications of 1095, you can have a steel that cannot fully convert into martensite. The quench rate curve goes all the way to the left side of the graph and touches it. It is possible to have a steel in that family of steel that cannot be quenched fast enough to avoid pearlite.

The 10 indicates the family of steel which is an unalloyed simple steel. The 95 indicates the carbon content. So 1099 would be 99 points of carbon versus 95 points. Which is a rounding error. So 1099 would be 1095. With a little bit too much carbon in it. Which is going to make it that much worse to try to heat treat. You'd want some manganese in there or something like they have in 1084.

I don't know. They're fine steels I guess. Meh

You can't get all of that carbon to stay in solution and the rest of it has to go somewhere. And, without good alloying elements (or even just mediocre alloying elements like chrome) it's either going to form graphite or cementite. Neither of which are particularly good.

There's some people who love the alloy. And there are a few things that it can do that are cool, such as decorative features like the hamon. But I think it's pretty mediocre.

It does form a plate martensite rather than a lath martensite. (the reality is there's almost always a mix). And this microstructure does pretty well making a crisp fine edge so it is a good material for applications where a very inexpensive simple steel needs fine edge stability potential.

It is a brittle material and it is frequently tempered soft to improve ductility to reduce this brittle nature which kind of defeats the purpose of having such a high carbon steel that can get so hard. A maker has two choices, either don't put all the carbon into solution in the first place, or temper it back to get it back out of the martensite. They usually do the latter because the former is not easy to accomplish.

You will frequently see it used in the mid 50s, and for that, a spring steel like 5160 would outperform it.

1095 is what you would get if you took all the good stuff that makes CPM Cruwear out of it and just left it with just iron and carbon.


What even just happened I'm so confused.

oh ok. got it.

''dont let your steel touch the left side ... of the ... page... ?''

right, er left?

no right... right?


it's too early
 
What even just happened I'm so confused.

oh ok. got it.

''dont let your steel touch the left side ... of the ... page... ?''

right, er left?

no right... right?


it's too early

It's a popular steel with people just starting out because it's easy to acquire, inexpensive and unabrasive so it's easy to make a knife shaped object from it.

But it really is not a good steel for beginners because it is so easy to do badly.

It has no grain refinement elements at all and it usually comes with a laminer anneal rather than sphereoidized.

The materials I use have vanadium carbide to pin the grains which prevents grain growth at high temperatures and long soaks which allows me room to do cool things that are not possible with 1095.

This lack of grain refining elements leaves the operation of grain refinement down to the smith or maker, and it's usually not done or done right.

During forging, the edge and the tip get hotter and stay hotter and have larger grain. This is why the tip is sometimes so fragile on some knives made this way. You'll see that on shows like forged in fire.

The fix is a high temperature normalizing cycle followed by grain refining reducing heats before heat treatment. And that heat treatment is tricky because you have to get the whole knife up to the same temperature evenly, but you also cannot leave it at temperature to soak very long or you get grain growth. It's tricky.

Also, that carbon is literally evaporating out of the surface of the steel as CO2 if there is any oxygen present.

It can be a decent steel in some applications, but it's not easy to do right. But it is super easy to do crummy, which is what you usually see.

Heat it up until non-magnetic and then quench it in used motor oil. It'll skate a file. (pearlite can skate a file)

Meh
 
W2 is a similar material, made as a tool steel, with tighter controls, better manufacturing processes, and a tiny pinch of vanadium for grain refinement, and a touch of manganese to improve hardenability.

In my opinion it has all of the advantages and is missing some of the disadvantages. If I wanted the properties of 1095, I would use W2.
 
W2 is a similar material, made as a tool steel, with tighter controls, better manufacturing processes, and a tiny pinch of vanadium for grain refinement, and a touch of manganese to improve hardenability.

In my opinion it has all of the advantages and is missing some of the disadvantages. If I wanted the properties of 1095, I would use W2.
Is W2 your favorite for hamons?
 
I'm gonna start a company and try to hornswaggle people into believing 4130 is good for knives. Refined out of ethically sourced old growth BMX bikes so you know its tough. Pay a hipster bicyclist to shill it on youtube. Call it Singlespeed Knives.
 
Is W2 your favorite for hamons?

It's my favorite simple steel with phenomenal fine edge stability potential.

I personally have no use for a hamon and couldn't tell you much about them except to describe the metallurgical issues they represent.
 
One of these days, I’d still like to acquire one of Walter Sorrells’s W2 katanas.

Would not be my first choice for a sword steel unless it's incorporated into a complex section. But a completely W2 Katana is not going to be a very good sword.
 
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