Random Thought Thread

Wouldn't a failure result in a jagged piece of metal going flying?


Maybe maybe not

I'm looking at this failure mode and I'm convinced it's being caused by fatigue caused by the twisting of the blade from that feature up there

Ideally the blade could hinge

One fix is to remove part of the blade

However, I think it's possible that crack may have addressed that root cause issue. It wouldn't have a reason to break further, it is now free to flex.

I think once that crack has gone across, there's no reason for it to crack further and they are still firmly attached.

I have spare inserts, and I may regret this, but I'm going to send it.

Lettuce Prey
 
20260611_122912.jpg

I think, if I had it to do over again, I would get a blade designed like the original blade to attach these inserts. It's solid back there and I think it probably flexes less. And I think that flexing, and with the attachment holes, were significant contributing factors.

Regardless. As much as I love Delta 3V, and as convenient as it has been having a mower blade that stays sharp where the original blades would have needed half a dozen re-sharpenings, I have to acknowledge that Delta 3V is not the ideal material for a lawn mower blade. I'm going to call this one a failure.

And I'm going to put it back on and keep rocking out. Because I don't understand the meaning of the word "failure."

In the famous words of my good friend Dr. Dan Keffeler, "I don't understand that word, I don't word good."
 
View attachment 3204936

Still looks like high lift blade profile to me.

Given the application, what do you think is the correct blade type for me?

I'm thinking about doing this over again

Although, I did prove to myself that my pet steel with my pet heat treat performs very well but is probably wildly inappropriate for the application. If I were smart I would quit messing with it...
 
I partially depends on the grass you are cutting and how wet or dry it is. If it were me, I'd be tempted to try low or no lift blades to see if they work.

Despite the fact it is 90° and sunny right now, the grass is currently too wet to mow

It gets thick and it gets tall. This is not a residential neighborhood where the "lawn" is mowed twice a week. It needed to be mowed before I left for blade show and it still hasn't been mowed.

My grass is a tick and snake hazard

I like the way this blade works because it doesn't leave large clumps that leave big dead spots it seems to chop it up pretty fine and disperse it.

I should probably be using the Gator blade?

I don't know. Would a zero lift or low lift blade work equally well? I'm not bagging it.

I literally mow small trees with this. Gravel. The occasional large rock etc. I take it into the woods at least once a year. I may be asking too much out of a particular blade type to expect a nice looking "lawn" out of it.
 
Despite the fact it is 90° and sunny right now, the grass is currently too wet to mow

It gets thick and it gets tall. This is not a residential neighborhood where the "lawn" is mowed twice a week. It needed to be mowed before I left for blade show and it still hasn't been mowed.

My grass is a tick and snake hazard

I like the way this blade works because it doesn't leave large clumps that leave big dead spots it seems to chop it up pretty fine and disperse it.

I should probably be using the Gator blade?

I don't know. Would a zero lift or low lift blade work equally well? I'm not bagging it.

I literally mow small trees with this. Gravel. The occasional large rock etc. I take it into the woods at least once a year. I may be asking too much out of a particular blade type to expect a nice looking "lawn" out of it.
If you like the cut you are getting now, then that's likely the best choice for your grass. Gators will mulch better, but you might get messy clumps if the grass is too wet. That's been my experience, but our grass is very different down here.
 
I’d have thought the toughness of 3V/D3V would mitigate that.

Delta 3V is not tougher than standard 3V. Or at least I don't claim it to be. It is more durable. It seems tougher, to the user, because it stays sharp in rough use but the actual fracture impact toughness is largely baked in. That was actually the original reason I started doing the videos, it was to demonstrate I hadn't ruined that feature. I did not improve the toughness of 3V with my heat treat, I improve the durability of it in rough use. That toughness is baked in, unless you really screw it up. It is possible it might develop higher (3 point) bend fracture toughness, but I have not established that.

The abrasive wear resistance is also baked in.

My knives stay sharper longer because of edge stability. A concept a lot of makers don't comprehend or having a meaningful way to test for and develop.

CPM 3V is extraordinarily tough for steel at this hardness.

It's nowhere near as tough as mild steel. Which is basically like taffy. Meaning, the energy absorbed in a fracture impact, typically measured with a swinging pendulum.

I very strongly believe that it is the best 3V available in the market, and in my opinion, the best steel for a general purpose and hard use knife in the world. But, ultimately, at the end of the day, it is steel, not a magical material, and under the right circumstances anything can be made to break. I'm pretty sure I could duplicate this experiment with other knife steels and you might be surprised at how poorly a lot of popular materials would perform in this application.

I think it was metal fatigue that did it in. Which is why we don't use these materials on aircraft landing gear. Millions of flexes and impacts per mow. I don't think this is a failure mode a typical user will encounter. In retrospect I probably should not have shown this because it's going to cause some confusion with people. This is a fringe use case.
 
My purpose for developing the tweaked Delta 3V (with the finer more evenly dispersed carbides) was to try to improve the toughness of the steel without reducing the hardness and edge stability. Fractures tend to propagate from carbide to carbide.

It was a pretty significant investment to develop the modified 3V that we are using in our higher hardness applications, and we were successful reducing the carbide size and distributing them better. Imagine my surprise when it didn't actually improve the performance of the knife. So, objectively, that experiment was also a failure. Although it did give us a nice steel for use at high hardness because it has a higher hardness sweet spot.

I, personally, tend to learn from experiments and failures. But, I guess a person smarter than me maybe wouldn't show it to people. 😞
 
Delta 3V is not tougher than standard 3V. Or at least I don't claim it to be. It is more durable. It seems tougher, to the user, because it stays sharp in rough use but the actual fracture impact toughness is largely baked in. That was actually the original reason I started doing the videos, it was to demonstrate I hadn't ruined that feature. I did not improve the toughness of 3V with my heat treat, I improve the durability of it in rough use. That toughness is baked in, unless you really screw it up. It is possible it might develop higher (3 point) bend fracture toughness, but I have not established that.

The abrasive wear resistance is also baked in.

My knives stay sharper longer because of edge stability. A concept a lot of makers don't comprehend or having a meaningful way to test for and develop.

CPM 3V is extraordinarily tough for steel at this hardness.

It's nowhere near as tough as mild steel. Which is basically like taffy. Meaning, the energy absorbed in a fracture impact, typically measured with a swinging pendulum.

I very strongly believe that it is the best 3V available in the market, and in my opinion, the best steel for a general purpose and hard use knife in the world. But, ultimately, at the end of the day, it is steel, not a magical material, and under the right circumstances anything can be made to break. I'm pretty sure I could duplicate this experiment with other knife steels and you might be surprised at how poorly a lot of popular materials would perform in this application.

I think it was metal fatigue that did it in. Which is why we don't use these materials on aircraft landing gear. Millions of flexes and impacts per mow. I don't think this is a failure mode a typical user will encounter. In retrospect I probably should not have shown this because it's going to cause some confusion with people. This is a fringe use case.
I recalled you mentioning that the D3V protocol improved edge stability without affecting 3V’s high toughness much.

The ‘metal fatigue’ due to high repetitive flexion cycles makes sense. It’s not a fracture from impacts (which is where 3V’s toughness generally shines).
 
I would like to point out that I sincerely believe that we are the best in the world at what we do. We keep winning national and World blade Sports titles, and side by side comparisons in even extremely rough use consistently demonstrates that we are meaningfully and substantially better.

Please don't construe this cracked lawn mower blade as meaning we don't know how to make the best knives of their kind in the world. Because I sincerely believe that we do.
 
I recalled you mentioning that the D3V protocol improved edge stability without affecting 3V’s high toughness much.

The ‘metal fatigue’ due to high repetitive flexion cycles makes sense. It’s not a fracture from impacts (which is where 3V’s toughness generally shines).


Yes, the cracks are not propagating from edge damage.

This is fundamentally different than a knife use case.
 
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