Random Thought Thread

Any opinions about the TSPROF knife sharpening systems?
I'm using the K03 model.

I sharpen everything with it, from tiny knives to K18 and the Assassin Wakizashi by Keffeler.

It has its own quirks when it comes to maintaining the sharpening angle, so it takes a little getting used to.

There are also a few things to keep in mind when sharpening long blades, around 23 inches or longer.

One feature I really like is the ability to adjust the angle in 0.1° increments, and even in 0.05° steps.
 
I should get out more .... out along Horse Creek with daughter #1 yesterday.

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If we're talking about production work—like sharpening 20–30 blades in a day—you'll get tired. It's significantly slower than using a grinder.

What you do get is a much more consistent DPS (degrees per side) along long blade curves and across changes in blade geometry. For example, when sharpening something like an MC or a Behemother, the edge becomes slightly wider toward the tip because the radius stays closer to the intended fixed angle.

If your goal is to sharpen something for competition, or simply get the absolute maximum performance from a specific edge angle in terms of sharpness and edge precision, then a fixed-angle system really shines.

I sharpen blades for cutting competitions—although they're not exactly legal if your blade is anything bigger than a kitchen knife. 😅

But in amateur competitions, or private events, my edges win pretty often.

Seriously, I'm not making it up.

That's about everything I can think of off the top of my head.

I've sharpened freehand, on a grinder, and even on a custom sharpening system that I built myself just for fun.

The results from a fixed-angle system are better.

TSPROF has plenty of issues, but I've used pretty much every other sharpening system out there, including some very niche ones, and they all have plenty of problems as well.
 
Similar story, specifically in terms of radial DPS values.


There are some custom modifications out there — basically things designed so that a grinder can attach to them.


But the main issue is that it’s precisely the light and slow movements that produce a clean cutting edge without burrs.


For the most part, it’s either about maximizing the existing geometry of your blade’s cutting edge, or the complete opposite — an extremely fast, no-fuss process.


The fast version can actually turn out worse than using a proper grinder or doing it by hand.


And the maximization version makes you spend more time than necessary.

Much more
 
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