- Joined
- Apr 10, 2000
- Messages
- 3,794
a) There are really bad alloys for knives. 301 stainless and 400C would be good examples. Both are used in knives and I doubt anyone can name a knife use application where those would be a good or even reasonable choice over other popular knife alloys.
Or for a change, name the knife use application where 440C or AUS-8A is "the best" choice.
In other words, we have bad alloys, mediocre performers and very good performers. All for a given application.
So, OP can be easily interpreted.
However, your requirements pretty much equal masters degree in metallurgy or higher and considerable knife making experience. 99% of us have neither, but still have favorites.
Public forum is full of opinions!!! There is certain amount of incorrect info on any public forum and hype, no other way around it, but "full" is a little bit harsh.
BTW, what's so significant about your sig? We've seen the Matrix long ago and the statement that you are propessionally skeptical for living (if you are proffesional, let's be skeptical about your words) doesn't mean anything, at least in the context of why we can't pick favorite steels, or why there are no bad ones.

Or for a change, name the knife use application where 440C or AUS-8A is "the best" choice.
In other words, we have bad alloys, mediocre performers and very good performers. All for a given application.
So, OP can be easily interpreted.
That was a nice recap of the knife steel FAQ[*]Also, the quality of heat treat is paramount. Whether it be the high austenizing temperatures required for certain steels, to the tempering temps and cycles, to cryogenic treatment... or differential tempering possible for the simpler carbon steels... This is a huge topic all unto itself.
[*]Hardness, abrasive edge holding wear resistance (and difficulty to sharpen), toughness vs brittleness, stain resistance, heat treat and grain structure, and price... all of these are parameters that should be understood in making a steel choice.
[*]Knife blade grind, spine thickness, edge type / profile / angle, flat vs. hollow grind, ... all have a significant influence on performance, which again has different answers depending on intended use.
[*]Stock removal vs. forgeable is another area.
[*]Learning to sharpen what you own is a good skill. Diamond stones and a jig help a lot. Not overheating if you choose to use a machine (belt sander, or motor driven wheel) is a good thing to know about... you can overheat and ruin the hardness (soften) a knife tip in an instant. A change of color is a good clue.
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Oh noThe forums are full of opinions, misinformation, hype, and general chaff.

I see you do follow your own advise, registered in 2008, 77 posts ATM. So, that was your 2 years digest?Separating wheat from chaff takes time and lots of reading. If that sounds cynical, see my autosignature, and keep reading the forums... a few years helps.
BTW, what's so significant about your sig? We've seen the Matrix long ago and the statement that you are propessionally skeptical for living (if you are proffesional, let's be skeptical about your words) doesn't mean anything, at least in the context of why we can't pick favorite steels, or why there are no bad ones.
After all you said, why stop now... Don't be too modestI'll avoid comments about naivete, rankings, and magic properties attributed to forged 52100 or damascus... (oops, I typed it...)

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