black mamba
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- Oct 21, 2009
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Phil and SG, thanks for the toughness reports. M4 has been around a while, but it is still one of the best all around blade steels we have.
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That really (pleasantly) surprises me. I wouldn't have guessed that level of performance, but it is thin and hard. Darren seems to be raising the bar on lots of steels, love reading about it!
High mamba, I have been using that knife for the last 6 months or so. As Phil said that one has seen some fairly heavy real world use. I intentionally did a lot of pushcuts through large rib bones on large fish. Many of these cuts involved me putting my hand on the spine and using a lot of body weight. I wouldn't say that I was trying to damage it but I wasn't far from it. I definitely haven't cut the knife any slack. Through 6-8 months of that use on an almost daily basis I haven't been able to hurt it. No chips, no rolls...nothing. That has been my experience.
Fwiw, I used it alongside some production knives in s30v with thicker edge geometry and I did see some noticeable (though minor) chipping in the s30v in the same work. I have also experienced some of the same damage using s90v. Those are real observations, but I'm not the most scientific tester out there so don't take it as gospel or anything..
Phil and SG, thanks for the toughness reports. M4 has been around a while, but it is still one of the best all around blade steels we have.
.....CPM M4 overall is not the best grade for the fishing/saltwater/high/high humidity application but it does serve to put another point on the curve and some real life use in the field. Phil
Daberti, I do have some information on CPM M4 that basically says the same thing. My main source is "Tool Steels" by Roberts and Carry. I also have the privilege of being able to get excellent guidance form metallurgists at both Bohler-Uddeholm and SB Speciality Metals. Perhaps we could correspond by e mail on some of this. I would appreciate your insight and hands on experience. You can get to me through the contact button on my website and we can go from there. This blade was actually tempered at the high end but I have also done some in the 400F range and have one in actual field use.
Lance may chime in again but he did a forced patina when he first received the knife. I got it back from him through Jim so I could take a look at it. I did have some darker patina on it and a few spots that were very shallow pitting. I cleaned it up with very little effort, basically some work with medium (maroon) Scotch Brite. I was surprised that there was not more corrosion given that this knife was used around salt water. Phil
And here we are.
Your feedback is precious and confirms what I've said here many many times: the importance of edge stability. You made reference to S30V and S90V production blades, I could add Elmax and M390 ones (Always production). All have in common underhardening, in the wrong understanding that this will help resistance to chipping (in applications not involving chopping, as Phil correctly said), but it actually goes the opposite way.
Now, thanks to you I've one more confirmation.
I think a bigger issue many are concerned with is corrosion resistance rather chipping issues. Especially those that produces and sell knives to far more customers than people on forums and to those that Stainless means a steel that will not stain at all.
Of coarse many here on the forum want to be educated and we chase performance and thereby contact custom makers that are willing to experiment.
I was surprised to see the CPM S35VN out cut the CPM Cru-Wear at similar hardness and geometry. I found the grind ability and finishing of Cru-wear class steel much lower then S35VN.
60 cuts isn't really that big of a spread at that level.![]()
True Jim, I thought PSF 27 ground and finished well for the edge holding you get. CPM 154 is another.
I was surprised to see the CPM S35VN out cut the CPM Cru-Wear at similar hardness and geometry. I found the grind ability and finishing of Cru-wear class steel much lower then S35VN.
That's the good thing about S35VN, you get excellent edge retention with fairly easy grinding and finishing. On this particular knife I only drilled and profiled before H/T and it only took about 1.5 hours to grind and finish this blade to a 600X hand rubbed finish after H/T. And that included etching my mark as well.
That's why I said that I think this alloy is great for knifemakers. Great performance with a reasonable finish time. Time = $$ in my shop. LOL
That's the good thing about S35VN, you get excellent edge retention with fairly easy grinding and finishing. On this particular knife I only drilled and profiled before H/T and it only took about 1.5 hours to grind and finish this blade to a 600X hand rubbed finish after H/T. And that included etching my mark as well.
That's why I said that I think this alloy is great for knifemakers. Great performance with a reasonable finish time. Time = $$ in my shop. LOL
Thank you sir!
And it didn't chip either when I tested it on wood snapping the edge out sideways like 6 or 7 times.
That's good for being as thin as it is and in that hardness range.![]()