Ranking of Steels in Categories based on Edge Retention cutting 5/8" rope

How much edge length do you need to get a good test result? I'm wondering if the Spyderco UKPK, being hollow ground, might give a better result when testing CTS-BD1. It only has a cutting edge of 2.34", so I'm not sure if it is testable with your protocol.
 
gomipile said:
How much edge length do you need to get a good test result? I'm wondering if the Spyderco UKPK, being hollow ground, might give a better result when testing CTS-BD1. It only has a cutting edge of 2.34", so I'm not sure if it is testable with your protocol.
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It's too short, the lower alloy steels don't do well with polished edges cutting Manila rope.
 
Ankerson said:
It's too short, the lower alloy steels don't do well with polished edges cutting Manila rope.
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Where would, say Case 1095CV or KA-BAR 1095 rank? Particularly Case, since I know there are several full hollow ground, thin bladed knives with blades longer than 3" available from Case in that steel.
 
gomipile said:
Where would, say Case 1095CV or KA-BAR 1095 rank? Particularly Case, since I know there are several full hollow ground, thin bladed knives with blades longer than 3" available from Case in that steel.
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It's too soft to really perform and with a polished edge 1095 smooths out VERY fast when cutting rope.
 
gomipile said:
Ah, that makes sense. My 1095 blades always seem to perform best when fresh off the Norton fine India.
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Yeah, they just don't have the hard carbide content to hold the edge for very long compared to the higher alloy steels so they just plain lose bite fast and start to slide on the rope.
 
Jim, why did 154CM at a higher Rc perform worse than ATS-34? I thought they were supposed to be the same...was the blade grind really different???


Category 5

S30V (60)
VG-1
CPM - D2 (62)
N690
ATS-34 (59)
CPM-S35VN (59)
N680

Category 6

INFI
154CM (61)
14C28N
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Jim,

I can't find the post right now, but I recall you posting that you owned a few Spyderco Military knives. Can you please share with us which ones you have, and why you have decided to keep/own those variants?

Thanks in advance,
Will
 
Ankerson,
I've seen you mention that different steels do better sharpened at different grits, some do better toothy while others do better polished, is there something to look at as for as Vanadium or tungsten content that would tell me that or is it just something you have tested and notices, if the latter I know I would really appreciate if you could also make a table/list of steels that do better toothy from your observations and some that do better polished so that I am getting the most out of my steels, thanks for your work on this.
 
michaelm466 said:
Ankerson,
I've seen you mention that different steels do better sharpened at different grits, some do better toothy while others do better polished, is there something to look at as for as Vanadium or tungsten content that would tell me that or is it just something you have tested and notices, if the latter I know I would really appreciate if you could also make a table/list of steels that do better toothy from your observations and some that do better polished so that I am getting the most out of my steels, thanks for your work on this.
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I comes do to what kind of use the knife will see in general.

In general all steels do better with a toothy edge when slicing (Draw Cut).

Some of the high alloy steels do well with a high polished edge, that's high percentages of Vanadium.
 
Ankerson said:
I comes do to what kind of use the knife will see in general.

In general all steels do better with a toothy edge when slicing (Draw Cut).

Some of the high alloy steels do well with a high polished edge, that's high percentages of Vanadium.
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Toothy edge, so around 600 grit? (Belt grinder)
 
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