RAT-7 or RD-7?

shootist16

shootist16

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I am looking at a knife to replace my BK-7. These two seem to be what I'm looking for. I haven't handled either though. I would like your thoughts on them.
 
The prices are almost the same, so price is moot.
I agree .. RD7. It is wider, thicker, and has a better grade of steel for use in a long blade. And dealing with RANGER Knives (Justin) on a personal basis is just great.
Take Care,
JGarth
 
How are the hollowgrind blade for chopping. I am looking long and hard about the RD-7. Any reivews/ comparison with the fiskar hachet?
 
I am a RAT-7 person , I own several,look at my avatar (rat7,tak,rat3's) excellent knives ,I use the RAT7 for chopping and so on around the camp site, I have had no problem or issues; chops well and mine is 1095 carbon and re-sharpen easily too, I have never own a ranger so I can not comment on those except I heard they are quality knives as well.:D
 
W-1, W-2, and the series of 10-- steels from 1045 through 1095 are the ultimate in simplicity and very shallow hardening so they may be used to make a selectively hardened edge as one sees on old Japanese swords. Toughness is outstanding, with these alloys being used for grader blade edges, truck springs and files. Uses up grinding belts at quite a rapid rate. Edges are acceptable with 1045, good with 1060, nice with 1084, and excellent with 1095, W-1 or W-2. Those last two are often referred to as O-F, old file. It is very easy to get the higher carbon end of this series way too hard to make a good knife.

5160 is a common spring steel, basically 1060 with one per-cent of chromium added to make it deep hardening. (It may still be selectively drawn with a softer back, if desired.) An excellent steel for swords, or any other blade that will have to take some battering. The choice of Jim Hrisoulas who makes some of the finest working swords in the business. Long blades are best around the mid 50's on the Rockwell scale, while small, working blades can be put into service at a full 60 RC. Forged blades with a well packed edge seem to cut forever! Rough on grinding belts. Jokingly called O-C-S, old chevy spring.
 
Justin you WILL make you a knife out of whatever you want, for a reasonable price too.
 
Trying to see if he'll ship to canada. Just looking for a 7 incher in carbon, since EVERYONE here seems to like their carbon.

Just worry about using it around wet areas, which happens the only places that I go to.
 
sherlockbonez said:
Trying to see if he'll ship to canada. Just looking for a 7 incher in carbon, since EVERYONE here seems to like their carbon.

Just worry about using it around wet areas, which happens the only places that I go to.
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sherlockbonez,EMAIL ME IF YOU CAN ,THX TONY
 
sherlockbonez said:
1095 and 5160, what's the difference?
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For you, next to none.

The chromium is too low to make the steel stainless, but the quenching is much easier on 5160 than on 1095. So the real difference is for the guy who makes the heat treatment.

And yes he ships to Canada :)
 
The trend here is for the Ranger, but there is nothing wrong with Rat-7. I have a pair of them (carbon, which I like) that have served well. I like 'em a lot. Thinking of stripping the blade coating on one for giggles.

I'll have one of the RD blades eventually. Been checking them out a bunch recently, and got word from Mr. Justin that he can make me a pair of BJ9 handles for me so maybe I'll pick up a Ranger knife with that order.

Somewhere out there in cyberspace is a really good review of the Rat-7. The guy cooked with it, chopped ice on a fish pond, etc. Couldn't find it but maybe someone knows what I'm talking about.

right on
 
Okay, I'm leaning to the RD-7.

How are the sheaths? Seems I have heard some complaints of the knife falling out of the RD sheaths.
 
The RD7 is a great hard-use camp knife. It has a thick spine, but still cuts well. The sheaths are pretty basic though and the insert inside is loose, so its the velcro strap that really retains the knife. I think the best thing to do would be to warm and flatten the insert (which I haven't tried myself yet).

I wonder if it would fit in a large spec-ops sheath or be too thick?
 
just purchase a RAT-7 and you get a great knife with a better sheath(spec ops) and do not have to invest another $50 for a quality sheath , just my 2cents. $ is close to the same moot point but the sheaths are not, RAT better sheath but both are great knives but you need a good sheath to carry it in.
 
shootist16 said:
How are the sheaths? Seems I have heard some complaints of the knife falling out of the RD sheaths.
Click to expand...

There are some design problems with the sheats, but I think the next batch was fixed. Nothing big though, the old ones can be fixed.
 
Hey cybrok, have you had a chance to put your RD7 to work? How does the carbon hold up to climates around here? Most of my camping involves canoeing or cross country sking/ snow shoeing.

What kind of edge would be optimal for chopping through thick ice? I only used axe and hachet before for this type of work, and have little experiences with big blades.
 
I have a RD6 but did not tested it during the winter, I got it this spring. But 5160 is usually used for leaf spring so I guess there would not be any problems.

Through thick ice? Maybe simply hit with the spine until the ice breaks?

Seriously, I have no idea. You should ask in the wilderness forums to people that know more about it.
 
I don't know if the spine would take it, ice are around 1-2 ft in the winter...I can always just use my hachet for it. Either way, merci très beaucoup.
 
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