I bought an RD9 about 6 months ago. There were no issues with the fit to the sheath. Actually the sheaths are almost identical to the nylon sheaths that comes with the TOPS knives.
Relative to another comment, agreed, Spec Ops are finer sheaths.
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RAT-7 or RD-7?
- Thread starter shootist16
- Start date
I bought an RD9 about 6 months ago. There were no issues with the fit to the sheath. Actually the sheaths are almost identical to the nylon sheaths that comes with the TOPS knives.
Relative to another comment, agreed, Spec Ops are finer sheaths.
Reference the below link...
http://www.specopsbrand.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductID=27
Per Spec Ops, their sheaths covers knives of sizes up to 1 3/4" wide, 1/4" thick and 6" or 8" long (depending on Short or Long respectively).
My RD9 is 1 5/8" wide and 1/4" thick (just measured) but of course is to long even for the large Spec Ops sheath.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2005
- Messages
- 835
I have the RAT-7 in 1095
RD-6
RD-9
For regular use I'd vote for the RAT-7
With the thinner blade it's a little more quick and useful.
Very good design.
If your gonna get a little more abusive, go for the RD.
Can't go wrong with the Ranger knives.
RD-6
RD-9
For regular use I'd vote for the RAT-7
With the thinner blade it's a little more quick and useful.
Very good design.
If your gonna get a little more abusive, go for the RD.
Can't go wrong with the Ranger knives.
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2002
- Messages
- 25
The RD-7 is a great knife, however the Rat 7 will be the better all around blade. The RD-7 will not slice, cut, or slash as well due to the very thick edge. The RD-7 is only a better choice if you plan on doing a lot of heavy prying and/or wood splitting.
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2007
- Messages
- 2,964
You mean this?
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430248
I have a Rat-7. It is made to be used and used hard. I also have a smaller 4" Ranger that is very nice and I have ideas for a custom waiting in the wings. You could get a RD made in 3/16" or 5/32" whatever you want. This ends the arguments against the thicker blade. Take my advice...get both!!
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2003
- Messages
- 170
I have a RAT-5 and an RD-9, and a RAT-7 on the way. For me, a 7" blade still needs to me more of a knife, and less of a chopper, so the 3/16" blade of the RAT was preferable to the 1/4" of a Ranger. The RAT-5 batons well and chops "okay" for the length, so the 7" can only do better.
The Ranger handle feels short, even though my hands are average size. The RAT handles are longer, and in holding the knife for typical "knife" tasks, they're more versatile for me. The micarta scales on the Ranger are nicely rounded around the circumference, but sharp at either end. The RAT scales are boxier, but allow for more end-user customization. Both need to be sanded to fit before extended use, IMO.
The 1095 RAT showed very little "character" on the edge after working with dirty wood, but the 5160 Ranger was used abusively on the same material and showed no dings or rolling on the edge at all. I don't know whether that's a function of the steel type or the edge bevel (I convexed the Ranger), but the RD-9 really took a beating, and just shrugged it off.
The Ranger sheath was a disgraceful outrage!!! Well, maybe not that bad,
but the liner came out with the knife the first time I took it out, and then cracked when it came flying off the blade and hit the floor. And the retention strap does nothing to prevent the knife from slipping out of the sheath. I had to make a new liner from kydex sheet, and a new snap-strap from an old dog collar, sewn on with dental floss. I spent more time reworking the sheath than I did convexing the edge... 
Anyway, thinner blade stock and larger handles are the main reasons I went with the RAT for a 7" knife, and the blade thickness I could probably go either way on.
The Ranger handle feels short, even though my hands are average size. The RAT handles are longer, and in holding the knife for typical "knife" tasks, they're more versatile for me. The micarta scales on the Ranger are nicely rounded around the circumference, but sharp at either end. The RAT scales are boxier, but allow for more end-user customization. Both need to be sanded to fit before extended use, IMO.
The 1095 RAT showed very little "character" on the edge after working with dirty wood, but the 5160 Ranger was used abusively on the same material and showed no dings or rolling on the edge at all. I don't know whether that's a function of the steel type or the edge bevel (I convexed the Ranger), but the RD-9 really took a beating, and just shrugged it off.
The Ranger sheath was a disgraceful outrage!!! Well, maybe not that bad,
but the liner came out with the knife the first time I took it out, and then cracked when it came flying off the blade and hit the floor. And the retention strap does nothing to prevent the knife from slipping out of the sheath. I had to make a new liner from kydex sheet, and a new snap-strap from an old dog collar, sewn on with dental floss. I spent more time reworking the sheath than I did convexing the edge... Anyway, thinner blade stock and larger handles are the main reasons I went with the RAT for a 7" knife, and the blade thickness I could probably go either way on.
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
- Messages
- 955
I'll do my approximately weekly post and say what a great knife my RAT7 D2 is. I can't fathom why people go on and on about how the only steel for chopping is 1095 -- I chop like mad with my D2 and have no problems whatsoever.
I got tired of the greyish coating on my knife, so went to Home Depot (their help is pathetic -- good thing I already knew everything I wanted) and got some paint remover and a plastic brush. Took a few applications of the remover and a bit of brushing, but got most of the coating that was still on the knife off. What remained I sanded off with fine grit sand paper, and didn't damage the finish at all. I did discover that you DON'T want to hit the edge with the sand paper, though. Took half an hour with my diamond stone and then my Sharpmaker to get it back up to easily shaving hair again.
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
- Messages
- 955
I'm almost afraid to ask, because I can't justify spending the kind of money it takes to acquire Busse's fine work.
Here goes, anyway: why do you not carry your RAT7 anymore? Is it really that much inferior to your Busse? Or do you feel guilty for spending a lot of money for a knife and then not using it? How does that INFI steel hold up to rust? I know it's tougher than diamonds for any kind of abuse, but I've been wondering about it's corrosion resistance.
Please tell me that they're way over-hyped knives, and I'm much better served browsing the aisles in Walmarts fine sporting goods section. Somehow, I don't think that's what you're going to say...
The Rat 7 is a fine knife for what it cost, and I really like the way the knife feels in hand too. I wish that I had purchased the 1095 version instead of the D2. I've owned a Chris Reeve Green Beret knife that set me back $300 and I prefer the Rat over it so its not really about the money i guess
Busse knives are very well made and very very tough, and they probably carry the best knife warranty on the planet:thumbup: As far as rust goes just wiping the blade off after use in the field and a thin film of oil while in storage will keep it rust free, I've never heard of anyone having any problems with INFI rusting on them.
BTW the Rat that you stripped looks awesome:thumbup:
The one on the pic?
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 1,877
Here is what sheath you get with RD looks like.
The sheath was too long (for RD6), so I sawed the plastic insert and folded the bottom. I've also heated and deformed a bit the plastic insert (above kitchen stove
) so that the blade is not loose in it anymore and used double-sided adhesive tape to fix the insert in the sheath so it doesn't come out with the knife.
Redneck solution but it worked for me
The sheath was too long (for RD6), so I sawed the plastic insert and folded the bottom. I've also heated and deformed a bit the plastic insert (above kitchen stove
) so that the blade is not loose in it anymore and used double-sided adhesive tape to fix the insert in the sheath so it doesn't come out with the knife.Redneck solution but it worked for me
- Joined
- Dec 25, 1998
- Messages
- 7,394
Any problems holding the knife secure?
Speaking of original condition of the sheath, although the knife rattled a bit in the plastic insert, it held so secure it often come out of the sheath with the blade still in it
It's OK now after the slight changes I've made.