Re-Heating Your CRK

...battle the burr...

LOL, that's pretty much to the point. Don't like to get too worked up with stropping on leather and usually just use a light stropping motion on a fine Spyderco Profile (followed by a piece of cardboard if I want to get really fancy) to knock the burr off. Keeping it simple and all that... So this might be reason enough for a re-ht. Thanks SMI for sharing your experiences.
 
When I first received my small Insingo I was not too happy with how long the edge would last. Seems like it would loose the shaving sharp edge with very few cuts. Closer inspection showed that the factory edge had a significant burr. Stropping would help but I suspect that there was still a burr that I could not seem to get rid of. After being frustrated I took it to my Edge Pro for a complete reprofile. I went with a 35 degree inclusive edge and do touch-ups at 40 degrees. This combination seems to be perfect since I use it for every kind of cutting and it stays shaving sharp for weeks without a touch-up. I'm still really stunned at how the reprofile has transformed the cutting and edge-holding ability of this knife.
 
I started reading this thread when my first sebenza was in the mail on its way and I must say it had me a bit concerned.It was a classic in s30v at 58-59 rc. When it arrived I inspected it and there were two visible rolls about midway along the edge. My first thought was great, this is the most I've ever spent on a single knife and the heat treat is crap. The other thing I noticed was how thin the edge is, most production knives even my flat ground spydies are significantly thicker behind the edge.In fact the grind was closer to a straight razor than the grind on my Lionsteel sr1. So then I was concerned that not only was it too soft but that thin thin edge may result in gross failure.

Well I took it out and using a 600 grit belt put a convex edge on at about 35 degrees inclusive, it formed a nice even burr which stropped off easily leaving it hair popping sharp. Then I cut everything I could find, not very scientific as I didn't have a comparison blade or count the number of cuts and pressure applied but I just wanted to get a idea of how it would perform. Now I own a few good production folders which I have used daily for many years, and occasionally make knives so I have played with a few different steels and try hard to understand the effects and proper use of heat treatment, edge geometry, and alloy content. So I feel I can make a reasonably informed judgement on cutting performance.
As I said I cut everything I could find, cardboard of varying thicknesses, rope both nylon and cotton free hanging and on a board, I whittled a point on a 1-1/2 inch pine block, I cut up zip ties, sheared pieces off a phone book, sliced kydex and other plastic, hard coated chipboard, I even whittled some shavings off an aluminium bar, then I cut some more cardboard. As I said there was no counting the cuts or pressure I basically just went 'till my hand got tired. When I quit the knife was still slicing cardboard but would not shave or slice paper. Inspecting the edge there were a few very small rolls thanks to the aluminium I belive but overall the edge was in good shape. I gave it a few swipes on a ceramic rod which fixed the rolls, the blade would again shave and slice paper, not well but it would.
So overall I am quite impressed with the results, I think Mr Reeve has done a superb job of balancing edge geometry hardness and alloy choice. It performed well for me at the tasks I will use it for, and I would say it performed better than a lot of high dollar production knives I have used.
I will happily and confidently use my sebenza for many years to come.
 
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