Reacquainting myself with items in my collection...

Since I'm my own person, having my own individual tastes, I have quite a few items in my collection that may not be as commonly found within the collections of other folks.
With that said, I also have some items that are very much commonly possessed by other people.
So... This morning I took out my Buck 110 in the 420hc stainless steel with ebony wood handle scales, (a knife that is widely popular and easily found in the knife world), for some Ren Wax treatment.
I believe it's a 2019 made specimen, which I also believe was the first year Buck brought back using Ebony wood scales as the standard for their Buck 110 model. I have another handful of Buck 110 knives with Buck's previously used material, (laminated wood scales).

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The two Schrade knives shown with it in the photo below, were also Ren Waxed recently.

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Just like many other "knife folks", I see the Buck 110 as having become a true piece of Americana 🇺🇸
 
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My dad never had a Buck 110, but he did have similar looking Puma lock-backs.
I never really 'fell in love' with the Puma's - they always seemed quite 'skinny' both in width and profile (if that makes sense...).
I do, however, like the Buck 110. Nice example you have there, I really like the 'plain jane' 110, simple, well executed and timeless.
 
Ruari said:
My dad never had a Buck 110, but he did have similar looking Puma lock-backs.
I never really 'fell in love' with the Puma's - they always seemed quite 'skinny' both in width and profile (if that makes sense...).
I do, however, like the Buck 110. Nice example you have there, I really like the 'plain jane' 110, simple, well executed and timeless.
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I have this Paramount branded knife that was made in USA by the Utica Cutlery firm of Utica NY.
It has the obvious look "borrowed" from the Buck 110, but has a much slimmer frame profile. It's noticeably lighter in weight than a Buck 110, but still seems to have a robust build quality.
I know Buck has made slimmer/lighter 110 variants, but I believe done with composite handle materials.
I think it would be pretty cool if Buck took cues from the frame/handle of this Paramount/Utica knife.
I'm not saying that they should replace the standard beefy classic, but as a separate offering, maybe calling it something like the Buck model 110-A1, where it would have the same blade, but with a much slimmer frame/handle as is done with the Utica made knife.
This way it would have the same materials used in making the beefier 110 handle, but much slimmer and lighter than the classic. IMO, it would make for a decent back pocket knife.

I'm actually not sure what the Paramount tang stamp is all about, likely some hardware firm that had their brand stamped onto the knives by Utica.
I also don't know what's up with them having chosen the green color for the laminated birch wood scales... But, I guess it makes it a wee bit more unique than the color usually chosen for such knives 🤔

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I think I had googled the "Paramount" knife brand a few years ago, but I forgot what the search turned up.
Anyhow, I just looked it up again, and it seems it's a house brand for a company with the initials MSC....

"We are a leading North American distributor of metalworking and maintenance, repair and operations (MRO) products and services.
We help our customers drive greater productivity, profitability and growth with approximately 2 million products offerings, our inventory management and other supply chain solutions, and deep expertise with 80 years of working across industries."

So, it seems that they resell a lot of products to the industry that they cater to.

I did find the same model knife that I have shown above on their website. They charge $65 for it, so they are selling it for $5 over the $60 that most places sell the original Buck 110 for 😱

As for how much I got my mint condition specimen for?... $5 at the local flea market! I sometimes feel the ouch when paying out the cash needed to acquire some of the new additions for my collection... But, the great deals I get at places like the flea market, help offset those ouches 👍😅👍
 
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JM2 said:
Thanks for sharing Jimmy.

I use a shoe shine brush on my Johnson’s paste waxed ornaments and knives. Have you ever given that a try for buffing Renaissance wax?
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Well, I wound up remembering what you had mentioned earlier about using a shoe shining brush to buff the Ren Wax.... And, I found myself doing just that with this knife.

It's a Falcon brand Lockback Stiletto made in Italy. These were pretty easily had not all too long ago, and inexpensively so, but Falcon Lockback Stiletto knives have since been discontinued.
The Ren wax added a nice bit of life to the otherwise dry looking Olive Wood handle scales it has.

With all the protrusions on this thing, I was having a tough time getting the Ren Wax buffed out, so I first grabbed a soft toothbrush.
But, I needed something more efficient with longer length soft bristles, so I broke out with my shoe polishing brush.
Afterwards, I gave it a soft cloth final touch-up and... wah lah, mission accomplished!
👍😃👍
Thanks for the tip! 😊

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I was looking at some of my knives early this morning, wondering if I should pick one or two out for some routine TLC'ing... But, it's Sunday morning, and it seems that I woke up feeling a bit on the relaxed/lazy mood of things.
But, since I knew I had done some items that I hadn't shared during this thread, I decided to put one up here today.
This knife had received the Ren Wax treatment a few weeks ago.
It's a 1970's/1980's vintage Wingen/Othello dagger made in Solingen Germany. The blade, guard, tang, and pommel, were made from a single drop forged piece of stainless steel. The handle scales are made from deer stag.

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PocketKnifeJimmy said:
I was looking at some of my knives early this morning, wondering if I should pick one or two out for some routine TLC'ing... But, it's Sunday morning, and it seems that I woke up feeling a bit on the relaxed/lazy mood of things.
But, since I knew I had done some items that I hadn't shared during this thread, I decided to put one up here today.
This knife had received the Ren Wax treatment a few weeks ago.
It's a 1970's/1980's vintage Wingen/Othello dagger made in Solingen Germany. The blade, guard, tang, and pommel, were made from a single drop forged piece of stainless steel. The handle scales are made from deer stag.

View attachment 1885844View attachment 1885845
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very nice boot knife!
 
Thanks, guys! 👍😊👍

I actually felt too guilty not sharing some elbow grease this morning on at least something within my collection, so...
I decided to pick these two items out and did the Ren Wax treatment on them.

This large knife/machete/short sword, (or whatever else some may consider it to be), is a A&R Zlatoust brand (Russian made) product.

And the other item is a pair of solid brass knuckles. It currently has that "just right" golden hue to it, and I'm hoping the Ren Wax coating will keep it that way for quite a while 🤞
But, if not, nothing that a soft jewelry polishing cloth won't take care of as needed 👍

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A couple tid bits about the items above...

The blade has it's top swedge sharpened from the factory.
It has an aluminum guard and pommel which sandwiches a stacked leather handle.
The stainless steel is a domestic Russian steel produced by Gost.

The solid brass knuckles were ordered online some years ago very inexpensively, (if I remember correctly, they were $12.99). They were made in India using the hand poured sand casting method, and it was quite the rough looking, (only partially finished), specimen.
But, with it being solid brass and all, I knew that I could basically finish what they had started.
So, some hours of hand sanding and judicious contouring here and there, added with a laborious bit of hand polishing, they became a nice set of brass knuckles.
It was a fun project 😊

I also have these couple pairs of USA made brass knuckles, which arrived to me in beautiful form from the very get go, but they also ran me about 100 bucks each.

Although these American made specimens are exceptionally nice, I believe the India made specimen I wound up working on, has the more awesome vintage/classic brass knuckle look about them. The fact that I put so much effort into them, I don't know if they can be considered made in India anymore. Maybe made in India/finished in USA 😃
But, again, that was only achieved after I did hours of hand done work on them 😊

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PocketKnifeJimmy PocketKnifeJimmy I recently got my first little tub of Renaissance Wax expecting it to behave similar to a liquid car wax in that you apply it, let it sit for some time, and then buff it off. However I soon realized that Renaissance Wax behaves a lot different. I've noticed that if you apply the wax (I use an old tshirt and just a dab of the product and rub it on) and then let the wax sit on it for any length of time longer than about 30 seconds that it will dry very hard and will show the streaks or finger prints from you wiping it onto the blade. On the tub it says that the product drys instantly, I took that lightly at first, but it sure does seem to dry instantly. Basically I've just noticed that I have to say apply it to just one side of the knife and immediately buff it off because if I let it dry for as long as it takes me to apply it to the whole knife then it will leave those streaks and finger prints after buffing that are not easy to get off. I'm talking I used iso alcohol at first expecting that to clean off the wax no problem but it didn't even touch it. Then I used acetone and not even that would melt through the wax and the streaks are still there.

Just wondering if this has been your experience also. Sometimes I think that maybe I got an old batch or something because I've never seen anyone mention this. If someone were to apply this to say an expensive custom damascus blade and let it sit too long before buffing, they wouldn't be happy.

That said, as long as you don't let the wax dry too long then it works beautifully. I applied it to a brass handle 2 days ago and have been fondling the knife throughout the days since, as well as it being in my sweaty pocket and still it hasn't formed any real patina.
 
LimpCroissant said:
PocketKnifeJimmy PocketKnifeJimmy I recently got my first little tub of Renaissance Wax expecting it to behave similar to a liquid car wax in that you apply it, let it sit for some time, and then buff it off. However I soon realized that Renaissance Wax behaves a lot different. I've noticed that if you apply the wax (I use an old tshirt and just a dab of the product and rub it on) and then let the wax sit on it for any length of time longer than about 30 seconds that it will dry very hard and will show the streaks or finger prints from you wiping it onto the blade. On the tub it says that the product drys instantly, I took that lightly at first, but it sure does seem to dry instantly. Basically I've just noticed that I have to say apply it to just one side of the knife and immediately buff it off because if I let it dry for as long as it takes me to apply it to the whole knife then it will leave those streaks and finger prints after buffing that are not easy to get off. I'm talking I used iso alcohol at first expecting that to clean off the wax no problem but it didn't even touch it. Then I used acetone and not even that would melt through the wax and the streaks are still there.

Just wondering if this has been your experience also. Sometimes I think that maybe I got an old batch or something because I've never seen anyone mention this. If someone were to apply this to say an expensive custom damascus blade and let it sit too long before buffing, they wouldn't be happy.

That said, as long as you don't let the wax dry too long then it works beautifully. I applied it to a brass handle 2 days ago and have been fondling the knife throughout the days since, as well as it being in my sweaty pocket and still it hasn't formed any real patina.
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I don't wait too long, but do let it dry a couple minutes once I am done applying it. When I've gotten a bit too generous in putting it on, it does then take me longer to buff off excess. I use a circular waxing on, like I would on a car. And, a little does go a long way 👍
 
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Huh that's strange, if I leave mine on for a whole minute the streaks will dry hard as a rock and won't come off with alcohol or acetone. After reading the last couple pages of your thread and thinking about my experiences with it I believe that it was the finish of the knife that made it react this way. The knives that I really noticed this were either bead blasted steel or DLC coated blades. Especially my blades with coatings really like to show the streaks from applying if I don't immediately wipe them off. I'm not a big coated blade guy and only have a few but this is something to note I suppose for others reading this thread. As you've become sort of the expert on Renaissance wax around these here parts haha.👍
 
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LimpCroissant said:
Huh that's strange, if I leave mine on for a whole minute the streaks will dry hard as a rock and won't come off with alcohol or acetone. After reading the last couple pages of your thread and thinking about my experiences with it I believe that it was the finish of the knife that made it react this way. The knives that I really noticed this were either bead blasted steel or DLC coated blades. Especially my blades with coatings really like to show the streaks from applying if I don't immediately wipe them off. I'm not a big coated blade guy and only have a few but this is something to note I suppose for others reading this thread. As you've become sort of the expert on Renaissance wax around these here parts haha.👍
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I had one knife that I didn't like the Ren Wax on... I used a heavily saturated with mineral oil cloth to wipe it all off... It didn't take too much effort. I'm surprised acetone didn't work, that stuff is STRONG STUFF! 😱
I guess it's test as we go along with this stuff. Maybe the Ren Wax website has more specific tips on such things? 🤔
It may be worth a try 👍
 
PocketKnifeJimmy said:
I had one knife that I didn't like the Ren Wax on... I used a heavily saturated with mineral oil cloth to wipe it all off... It didn't take too much effort. I'm surprised acetone didn't work, that stuff is STRONG STUFF! 😱
I guess it's test as we go along with this stuff. Maybe the Ren Wax website has more specific tips on such things? 🤔
It may be worth a try 👍
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I know man, I couldn't believe that acetone wouldn't take it off either! Renaissance Wax is no joke. That means that it's going to take quite a bit for corrosion to get through it and into our knives though. Yea, true on the testing as we go. Maybe I'll go check out their website.

For anyone else interested in using this stuff, I'd suggest that if you're waxing a coated blade or a heavily blasted blade, to take the blade out of the folding knife before waxing it so that you get an either shine all the across the blade and through the pivot area. It can be tough getting to all the crevices near the pivot and if you don't get that Renaissance Wax buffed well before it hardens it you can see what parts were waxed and what small parts of the blade were missed near the handle. This doesn't seem to be much of a issue/thing when applying it to satin or stonewash finishes though. This is just my experience.
 
LimpCroissant said:
I know man, I couldn't believe that acetone wouldn't take it off either! Renaissance Wax is no joke. That means that it's going to take quite a bit for corrosion to get through it and into our knives though. Yea, true on the testing as we go. Maybe I'll go check out their website.

For anyone else interested in using this stuff, I'd suggest that if you're waxing a coated blade or a heavily blasted blade, to take the blade out of the folding knife before waxing it so that you get an either shine all the across the blade and through the pivot area. It can be tough getting to all the crevices near the pivot and if you don't get that Renaissance Wax buffed well before it hardens it you can see what parts were waxed and what small parts of the blade were missed near the handle. This doesn't seem to be much of a issue/thing when applying it to satin or stonewash finishes though. This is just my experience.
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I was thinking about the wax buildup/streaking situation that you mentioned encountering.
So, I experimented on a kitchen butter knife I had in my junk drawer.
I purposely put a wee bit more than usual on the blade, and didn't as evenly apply it as I usually do. I was purposely attempting to cake it on a bit to achieve a situation that would guarantee a tougher rub off.
I then let it dry for about 3 mins, and proceeded to buff it down with a clean cloth. I was able to achieve that streaking/build-up.

Okay, I then took to applying a generous amount of Ren Wax to the blade's surface, using it to actually break down what was already there, and then taking it down to that thin coat using the circular motion to apply it. Then, I re-buffed it and it left no streaks 👍
So, it may be just the trick to use a generous amount of Ren Wax to loosen and rebuff any previous application of the Ren Wax that didn't quite come out right the first time 👍😊👍
 
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PocketKnifeJimmy said:
I was thinking about the wax buildup/streaking situation that you mentioned encountering.
So, I experimented on a kitchen butter knife I had in the my junk drawer.
I purposely put a wee bit more than usual on the blade, and didn't as evenly apply it as I usually do. I was purposely attempting to cake it on a bit to achieve a situation that would guarantee a tougher rub off.
I then let it dry for about 3 mins, and proceeded to buff it down with a clean cloth. I was able to achieve that streaking/build-up.

Okay, I then took to applying a generous amount of Ren Wax to the blade's surface, using it to actually break down what was already there, and then taking it down to that thin coat using the circular motion to apply it. Then, I re-buffed it and it left no streaks 👍
So, it may be just the trick to use a generous amount of Ren Wax to loosen and rebuff any previous application of the Ren Wax that didn't quite come out right the first time 👍😊👍
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Hey nice! Nice experiment you did there and that's awesome that it kind of broke itself down and gave you a nice smooth finish again. Thanks for trying that and coming back to let us know! I'll have to go back and reapply it to the few knives I put it on that gave me the funky finish.👍🤙
 
LimpCroissant said:
Hey nice! Nice experiment you did there and that's awesome that it kind of broke itself down and gave you a nice smooth finish again. Thanks for trying that and coming back to let us know! I'll have to go back and reapply it to the few knives I put it on that gave me the funky finish.👍🤙
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No prob! 👍
Yeah, I literally used the heavier amount as a cleaner of the already applied wax. You do have to swirl and rub as you do it, but it seems to work 👍😊👍
 
LimpCroissant said:
Hey nice! Nice experiment you did there and that's awesome that it kind of broke itself down and gave you a nice smooth finish again. Thanks for trying that and coming back to let us know! I'll have to go back and reapply it to the few knives I put it on that gave me the funky finish.👍🤙
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Btw, maybe using an old butter knife, or something like an old pair of scissors, could be a great way of getting a feel on how this stuff works after first buying the stuff. That whole "practice makes perfect" thing.
I didn't even think about doing that first, and went right at doing my collection as soon as I received my can of Ren Wax 😅
 
PocketKnifeJimmy said:
Btw, maybe using an old butter knife, or something like an old pair of scissors, could be a great way of getting a feel on how this stuff works after first buying the stuff. That whole "practice makes perfect" thing.
I didn't even think about doing that first, and went right at doing my collection as soon as I received my can of Ren Wax 😅
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Yea that's a good idea. Maybe I'll do a similar experiment. I always seem to do that kind of thing haha. Immediately Ren Wax 5 knives at a time ignoring the instructions, or putting a good knife on my KME as my first time sharpening on it😂
 
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