Reacquainting myself with items in my collection...

This one just got a nice generous coating of Renaissance Wax.

The story on this Antique Nepalese Kukri blade, (which was from a Nepalese military issued Kukri knife), was a bit interesting.
I say interesting because I didn't buy it to rehandle it, but rather it was obtained for the sole purpose of displaying it as is.
I had just received my second complete Antique Nepalese Military Kukri, when I got the idea of also ordering myself an Antique Nepalese "Kukri knife blade only". They were selling for about 1/3 the price of the complete knives I had already purchased, and obviously being sold as an "as is" blade that one could in some way rehandle at home... Basically a "do it yourself" item.
Well, I had different intentions for it. I wanted to set it up as an educational display, exposing what a traditional Nepalese Kukri tang looks like when the handle is removed.

Anyhow, here's how I set up the display case for it...

20180923-165837.jpg20180923-165837_(1).jpg

And here are some pictures of it after I Ren Waxed it today...

20220807_135114_(1).jpg20220807_135204_(1).jpg20220807_135225_(1).jpg20220807_135456_(1).jpg20220807_135522_(1).jpg

FB_IMG_1660998989081.jpgFB_IMG_1660999079745.jpg

It fit's right in with my 'Interesting Objects Collection', it basically being my own little personal museum πŸ‘πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘

The following video has a gentleman living in England that explains how this stash of Antique Nepalese military Kukri knives became available to the general public...


And here he shares his method of cleaning them, (my specimens actually received an even less invasive cleaning of it's dry greased gunk, since I wanted to totally preserve that "antique character" 😊

 
Last edited:
This one just got a nice generous coating of Renaissance Wax.

The story on this Antique Nepalese Kukri blade, (which was from a Nepalese military issued Kukri knife), was a bit interesting.
I say interesting because I didn't buy it to rehandle it, but rather it was obtained for the sole purpose of displaying it as is.
I had just received my second complete Antique Nepalese Military Kukri, when I got the idea of also ordering myself an Antique Nepalese "Kukri knife blade only". They were selling for about 1/3 the price of the complete knives I had already purchased, and obviously being sold as an "as is" blade that one could in some way rehandle at home... Basically a "do it yourself" item.
Well, I had different intentions for it. I wanted to set it up as an educational display, exposing what a traditional Nepalese Kukri tang looks like when the handle is removed.

Anyhow, here's how I set up the display case for it...

View attachment 1893216View attachment 1893237

And here are some pictures of it after I Ren Waxed it today...

View attachment 1893217View attachment 1893218View attachment 1893219View attachment 1893220View attachment 1893221

It fit's right in with my 'Interesting Objects Collection' πŸ‘
Nice, it never ceases to surprise me how, as a hard use chopper and general tool, the kukri has a such a short tang.
 
Nice, it never ceases to surprise me how, as a hard use chopper and general tool, the kukri has a such a short tang.

Yeah, although in more recent history one sees kukri knives with full length and peened at the pommel, and full length/full width pinned tangs, the method shown above is actually the traditional way. It is also still commonly done that way for Kukri knives used and purchased in Nepal by the Nepalese people.
That natural glue they would use is called "La-hah". As good as it is/was, I can't help but to think that some of the modern day industrial adhesives would be even that much better πŸ€”
 
Last edited:
This one just got a nice generous coating of Renaissance Wax.

The story on this Antique Nepalese Kukri blade, (which was from a Nepalese military issued Kukri knife), was a bit interesting.
I say interesting because I didn't buy it to rehandle it, but rather it was obtained for the sole purpose of displaying it as is.
I had just received my second complete Antique Nepalese Military Kukri, when I got the idea of also ordering myself an Antique Nepalese "Kukri knife blade only". They were selling for about 1/3 the price of the complete knives I had already purchased, and obviously being sold as an "as is" blade that one could in some way rehandle at home... Basically a "do it yourself" item.
Well, I had different intentions for it. I wanted to set it up as an educational display, exposing what a traditional Nepalese Kukri tang looks like when the handle is removed.

Anyhow, here's how I set up the display case for it...

View attachment 1893216View attachment 1893237

And here are some pictures of it after I Ren Waxed it today...

View attachment 1893217View attachment 1893218View attachment 1893219View attachment 1893220View attachment 1893221

It fit's right in with my 'Interesting Objects Collection', it basically being my own little personal museum πŸ‘πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘

The following video has a gentleman living in England that explains how this stash of Antique Nepalese military Kukri knives became available to the general public...


And here he shares his method of cleaning them, (my specimens actually received an even less invasive cleaning of it's dry greased gunk, since I wanted to totally preserve that "antique character" 😊

very nice. Matt Easton has actually become my favorite youtuber. He is so knowledgeable about swords and knives. Lately he's been doing videos about antique bowie knives and some ww1 trench knives. Highly recommended.
 
Cool Kuk!!!!
So what runs out first. Knives or Renwax!!!!!!

πŸ˜…

I definitely would run out of knives first. That's for two reasons...
One, there's a lot of my collection that will only be getting lightly oiled cloth wipe downs instead of Ren Wax.
And, two, the Ren Wax does go a long way, except when feeding it into dry'ish leather πŸ‘
 
Last edited:
I decided to give this Queen Cutlery made Doctor's pattern knife some tlc this morning, giving it a coating of Renaissance Wax...

20220813_070432_(1).jpg20220813_070144_(1)_(1).jpg20220813_065833_(1).jpg

I think it's been quite a few years that I purchased it. It was a dealer exclusive, (if I remember correctly), done in a total run of 100 pieces. The jigged bone scales are what Queen used to call Winterbottom.

Ah... I looked it up online to refresh my memory about it, and found the following...

"Frank’s Classic Knives introduced a limited run of 100 Queen Classic two-blade doctor’s knife in 2014. A traditional style known for one long spear blade intended for cutting and crushing pills and the other a spatula blade originally used for mixing salves. The attention to detail extended from the USA made stainless steel blades to custom packaging with a Certificate of Authenticity."

Of course it's box and paperwork are somewhere in the closet, where I keep all other such things πŸ˜ƒ
 
Last edited:
I am looking to replace the SOG Kukri I have and I really want to get the perfect blade curve and handle. The one in the glass case appears to be perfect for me! This was very helpful for me, thank you for posting these!
 
I very recently put up a post about a limited run WW2 reproduction KaBar that KaBar is currently offering. It has a purposely done distressed overall look to it, with Kabar using a "cold blue" solution to achieve the distressed look upon the blade of this model, (the model being named the 'Red Spacer' Kabar).
When I say cold blue solution, I mean that the method they are using to blue this model's blade, is to use a liquid chemical solution that most of you have no doubt seen being sold in small bottles at your local sporting goods or gun shop.
There are all sorts of brands of the stuff, but it's all chemically about the same.
Cold Bluing is not to be confused with the Bluing process that gun companies use to professionally blue their guns.
Cold bluing is much easier to apply, and hence the selling of the stuff at so many local stores, but it just isn't very durable at all. It takes very little to wear it off, MUCH easier to wear off than a professional grade "hot blued" finish. It's best use would be as a touch up on a hot blued steel surface.

So, the fact that KaBar is offering a cold blued steel blade knife, it got me to thinking about Renaissance Wax as an added protective coating on cold blued steel.
Although I have applied Ren Wax to a few of my blued blade knives, they have all been of the factory hot blued type.
Since I don't have a cold blued knife blade to test the Renaissance Wax upon, I decided to take a chance on my made in Spain .50 caliber 'Kentucky Belt Pistol' cap and ball muzzle loader, (.50 caliber usually gets a patched .490 caliber lead ball).
I received it as a gift from a friend some years ago, it still being in it's original box as a "build it yourself" CVA, (Connecticut Valley Arms), kit gun.
My friend had owned it for many years, it having been gifted to him by another friend that himself had received it as a gift, and after many, many years, had not taken on the project to build it.
It basically took a third owner, (me), to land in the hands of someone willing to take on the mission. I would say it stayed in kit form inside of it's original box for about 30+ years before finally being assembled.

It's assembly was started soon after my having received it. I went ahead and worked on the project during a two or so week period and got her fully assembled and finished.
I used a 'Watco' Golden Oak hand rubbed 'Danish Oil' finish for the wood stock, and since I was only planing on building it as a display piece, I chose to use the more delicate Cold Blue finish for it's barrel. Btw, the gun is actually a fully functional Black Powder Muzzle Loading Pistol.

Anyhow, so I decided today to give the Renaissance Wax a try on this gun, using it on the barrel, brass hardware, and on the hand rubbed finished wood stock.

It took me almost three hours to do everything, but the mission was accomplished.

The result was awesome, giving a subtle visual enhancement on everything I applied it to.

So, if you have a cold blued steel knife, gun, or other item, the Ren Wax should be safe to apply onto it.
πŸ‘πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘

The pics of the barrel may seem to show the bluing being spotty, but it's not at all. The Ren Wax gave it a very nice deep polished look, and the spotty look in these pictures are actually just glare/reflections. The cold bluing job I did on this barrel came out nice and even for me πŸ‘

20220814_105314_(1).jpg20220814_111558_(1).jpg20220814_114405_(1).jpg20220814_114433_(2).jpg20220814_114628_(1).jpg20220814_115837_(2).jpg20220814_115914_(1).jpg20220814_120317_(1).jpg20220814_120409.jpg


Here's what it started off as some years ago...

FB_IMG_1660498921141.jpg

These kits were not as easy to complete as they may seem to be... It took me quite a few man hours, (about 40 or so), to accomplish it 😱

But, it was rewarding at the end πŸ˜ƒ

So, was this gun truly "made in Spain"?... I'd say no... It's components were made in Spain, but it was assembled and finished in the USA 😊
 
Last edited:
I very recently put up a post about a limited run WW2 reproduction KaBar that KaBar is currently offering. It has a purposely done distressed overall look to it, with Kabar using a "cold blue" solution to achieve the distressed look upon the blade of this model, (the model being named the 'Red Spacer' Kabar).
When I say cold blue solution, I mean that the method they are using to blue this model's blade, is to use a liquid chemical solution that most of you have no doubt seen being sold in small bottles at your local sporting goods or gun shop.
There are all sorts of brands of the stuff, but it's all chemically about the same.
Cold Bluing is not to be confused with the Bluing process that gun companies use to professionally blue their guns.
Cold bluing is much easier to apply, and hence the selling of the stuff at so many local stores, but it just isn't very durable at all. It takes very little to wear it off, MUCH easier to wear off than a professional grade "hot blued" finish. It's best use would be as a touch up on a hot blued steel surface.

So, the fact that KaBar is offering a cold blued steel blade knife, it got me to thinking about Renaissance Wax as an added protective coating on cold blued steel.
Although I have applied Ren Wax to a few of my blued blade knives, they have all been of the factory hot blued type.
Since I don't have a cold blued knife blade to test the Renaissance Wax upon, I decided to take a chance on my made in Spain .50 caliber 'Kentucky Belt Pistol' cap and ball muzzle loader, (.50 caliber usually gets a patched .490 caliber lead ball).
I received it as a gift from a friend some years ago, it still being in it's original box as a "build it yourself" CVA, (Connecticut Valley Arms), kit gun.
My friend had owned it for many years, it having been gifted to him by another friend that himself had received it as a gift, and after many, many years, had not taken on the project to build it.
It basically took a third owner, (me), to land in the hands of someone willing to take on the mission. I would say it stayed in kit form inside of it's original box for about 30+ years before finally being assembled.

It's assembly was started soon after my having received it. I went ahead and worked on the project during a two or so week period and got her fully assembled and finished.
I used a 'Watco' Golden Oak hand rubbed 'Danish Oil' finish for the wood stock, and since I was only planing on building it as a display piece, I chose to use the more delicate Cold Blue finish for it's barrel. Btw, the gun is actually a fully functional Black Powder Muzzle Loading Pistol.

Anyhow, so I decided today to give the Renaissance Wax a try on this gun, using it on the barrel, brass hardware, and on the hand rubbed finished wood stock.

It took me almost three hours to do everything, but the mission was accomplished.

The result was awesome, subtlety enhancing the look on everything I applied it to.

So, if you have a cold blued steel knife, gun, or other item, the Ren Wax should be safe to apply onto it.
πŸ‘πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘

View attachment 1899683View attachment 1899684View attachment 1899685View attachment 1899686View attachment 1899687View attachment 1899688View attachment 1899689View attachment 1899690View attachment 1899691


Here's what it started off as some years ago...

View attachment 1899725

These kits were not as easy to complete as they may seem to be... It took me quite a few man hours, (about 40 or so), to accomplish it 😱

But, it was rewarding at the end πŸ˜ƒ

So, is it truly "made in Spain"?... I would say no... It's... Components made in Spain/Assembled and finished in USA 😊
rugM2Wg.jpeg

I have a couple of antique gun replicas from Spain that my grandfather gave me. Not much remains of one and the other one needs to have the trigger replaced. This is the one that needs the trigger. Idk how to go about fixing the other one.
 
rugM2Wg.jpeg

I have a couple of antique gun replicas from Spain that my grandfather gave me. Not much remains of one and the other one needs to have the trigger replaced. This is the one that needs the trigger. Idk how to go about fixing the other one.

Neat to have some items handed down to you from your family πŸ‘β€πŸ‘

Whether one has an original antique firearm, or an older reproduction, it can be extremely difficult to find the correct parts to repair older muzzle loaders.

There is a company that specializes in selling old original parts for obsolete firearms, even for some muzzleloaders... That firm is Numrich Arms/Gun Parts Corporation.
It's a long shot for old muzzle loaders, but it's worth checking out their website anyway.
Of course one has to have a model and company make of the gun to help in finding any components.

With that said, there are folks out there that can fix just about any firearm, (old or new). We are talking here about folks that can take existing components from a similar firearm and make them fit the job at hand, and also those that can simply make a part from scratch when there is no other avenue. The path to accessing such a specialized gunsmith will only require one thing... money!

I mean, if a firearm is extremely rare, and has a big dollar value, then someone with deep pockets may contact such a specialized gunsmith to have whatever components made and the weapon brought back to working order.
And then there's those that may have a gun that is not a big ticket item, but it's owner feels it needs to be brought back to working order because it means so much to him or her sentimentally. They too may seek out a specialized Gunsmith, but, again, that will likely come with a high price tag.

So, my friend, if the cost to repair them is of no major concern to you, then a fix is likely possible for almost any gun.

But, if you don't want to pay an arm and a leg for having the gun(s) brought back to par, then maybe just keeping them as is in a display full of momentos will suffice πŸ‘πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘
 
Last edited:
I received this vintage 'Romo' branded, Solingen Germany made, Bowie knife today, (my having ordered it a few days ago).

I'm guessing it was made during the 1960's/1970's period, but I can't be sure on that.

I went ahead and Ren Waxed everything... the blade, handle, and sheath.

Anyhow, I'm glad to have added this fixed blade pattern knife to my collection πŸ‘πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘

20220815_165015_(1).jpg20220815_165102_(1).jpg20220815_165603_(2).jpg

I played a bit of musical chairs with some of my collection's items, and wound up making some room for it in this display case...

20220816_165402.jpg
 
Last edited:
Wicked cool blade!!!πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘

Thank you, Sir! 😊

Yeah, I couldn't pass up on this one.
Not only have I always liked the style of this blade, the condition of this one, including it's sheath, made it a "Get it now!" thing for me.
Well, that, and my really liking it's awesomely "gnarly" looking stag handle 😊
It was a bit pricey, but I have zero regrets on acquiring it πŸ‘
 
Back
Top