Ready to start my first Damascus blade. A Second try at etching (Vinegar)

Steve, when using the damascus the pattern won't show up again until you etch it in Ferro-Chloric acid. Once your have finished the grind, heat treatment, and hand sanding put in a container filled with ferro-chloric acid and depending how deep you want the etch is how long you should keep it. I've seen several people use PVC pipe with one end capped off for the container.
 
:) That is pretty funny.

You will think so as well once you re etch it.

I would be freaked out too if I saw the pattern disappear without knowing why.
 
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OK guys - thanks for the info and reassurance; I will sleep better tonight now. I'll study this stuff some more but I think I like Ricky Arthur's method with the pan so I can see what is happening.
 
I will say you should really be able to see the pattern as you move up in grits. I highly recommend getting ferric chloride from radio shack as it looks like you have a lot of material that you'll be using eventually. I will also second what beaster said regarding the PVC container. I mounted mine to my bench and it's always there. I've used the same etching solution for 5 knives and I think the bottle of FC was like $11.
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If you use Ferric Chloride, be sure to cut it with water. I use the five parts water to one part ferric, leave it in a couple of minutes, take it out and spray it with windex (it stops the acid), wipe it off and determine if the etch is the way you want it, if not, put back in and repeat the process. I've never used vinegar to do the initial etch, only to refine it. Lemon or lime can be used also. But, I like ferric the best for Damascus.

Oh, and you'll need thin rubber gloves unless you want to walk around with badly stained hands for a few days.
 
David Stifle said:
If you use Ferric Chloride, be sure to cut it with water. I use the five parts water to one part ferric, leave it in a couple of minutes, take it out and spray it with windex (it stops the acid), wipe it off and determine if the etch is the way you want it, if not, put back in and repeat the process. I've never used vinegar to do the initial etch, only to refine it. Lemon or lime can be used also. But, I like ferric the best for Damascus.

Oh, and you'll need thin rubber gloves unless you want to walk around with badly stained hands for a few days.
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I've been using straight ferric and it's coming out well, do you cut it to make the etch slower?
I sand to 600, degrease, dip it for about a minute, rinse with windex, sand to 1200, dip for a couple minutes, rinse with windex, hit it with 000 steel wool, then dip again, until I like the depth and appearance of the etch. Total time is maybe 15 minutes.when I'm happy with the outcome I rub some Danish oil into it.
 
Sandeggo said:
I've been using straight ferric and it's coming out well, do you cut it to make the etch slower?
I sand to 600, degrease, dip it for about a minute, rinse with windex, sand to 1200, dip for a couple minutes, rinse with windex, hit it with 000 steel wool, then dip again, until I like the depth and appearance of the etch. Total time is maybe 15 minutes.when I'm happy with the outcome I rub some Danish oil into it.
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I think most guys cut it, I've found it works just as well, and I get a good etch. But, if using it straight is working for you, then that's fine too. Just keep in mind it's a strong etchant and don't leave it in too long.
 
Ricky is right, degrease completely the blade before etching!! use alcohol or acetone and be sure not to touch the blade with ungloved hands because your fingerprints will leave spots which will show after the etch.
Good luck
 
Yes, I know guys all have a ratio they favor, and I think most guys probably use a 3 to 1 ratio. I like mine a little weaker because I use it primarily to bring out hamon's. I want the hamon to display, but I don't want the acid eating too deeply.
 
DunkEm said:
Col, how do you heat treat Damascus?
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I've never done it so maybe I am the wrong guy to ask. Alabama damascus told me to heat the blade to orange hot/non magnetic, quench in oil, anneal at 375 degrees F for one hour and that's it. Very similar to what I do with 1084. I'll be trying that in a few weeks hopefully.
 
Well it's been a while since I updated this, but my first Damascus blades seem to be going OK.



This is them after initial grinding up to 600 grit, edges down to dime thickness, heat treated, and carbon mostly removed. Now some more grinding to finish the cleanup, ferric acid etching (that will be a new experience ;)) Cocobolo handles and final touches.

There is a story about the little guy that some may find amusing. I got all three of these blades out of half of an Alabama Damascus billet. The original plan was to get two blades and a bit of scrap metal. I wanted to use the scrap metal to heat treat first, etch first etc etc because I wanted to make as many mistakes on the scrap as I could and as few as possible on the two real knives. Then I actually managed to use the scrap for a little blade which was a reduced version of the two larger ones - about half size. Then there was an oops moment as I was grinding the little one (I think I looked out the window or something.) and I about destroyed it in two seconds. OK back to scrap not knife. But then I completely re-shaped it and who knows, it may yet be a usable knife. I think I will slim down the handle a bunch so it is in better proportion to the blade. Maybe one I'll use in the shop and hide when visitors are around? :D

Anyway guys I think this may actually work - etching is the big hurdle ahead - and many thanks to all of you who have given me guidance and even encouragement when I panicked earlier.

Steve
 
If you go through the thread in my signature, it will show you how the steel is made and how I etch/finish it out. I think it will clear up a lot of issues for you. :)
 
Well this is it - finished it yesterday for a good friend. I learned a lot along the way, benefited from a lot of good advice from members of BF and am actually pretty pleased with it for a first effort.





I am a little surprised at how dark the blade is - not as much contrast as some I have seen. I do not know if this shading is inherent in this particular piece of steel (the billet was quite dark to start with) or whether the shading is more related to my etching procedure. Any opinions about this?
 
It's a nice looking knife. It looks like you sanded or buffed it after etch. Etching is done very last. then it gets covered and a handle. Cause it doesn't take mu much to wipe it out. The only thing I do to the blade after etching and polishing is etch my mark once it is complete.
 
ricky_arthur said:
It's a nice looking knife. It looks like you sanded or buffed it after etch. Etching is done very last. then it gets covered and a handle. Cause it doesn't take mu much to wipe it out. The only thing I do to the blade after etching and polishing is etch my mark once it is complete.
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No, etching was the last step on the blade. Actually, the pattern is quite distinct on the blade, much more so than the pic shows - it's just that to my eye the pattern is grey on grey and I was expecting more like grey on silver. Etched in FC 1:1 with water. Too strong maybe? The pattern emerged very quickly.
 
First, for etching damascus, you want 3:1 or even 5:1 diluted FC.

Some mixes of steels don't show a huge color contrast.

It is too late now, but the best way to get bright contrast is to etch until there is a bit of "topography" to the pattern. You can feel it easily with your fingernail. Then, after etching, boil the blade for about 20-30 minutes in water with a Tbs. of baking soda or TSP. Once dried, wrap a piece of 1000-2000 grit paper around a solid backer ) steel bar) and gently work the surface. It will brighten the high spots and make a sharp contrast against the dark low spots. Clean and oil well after sanding. Don't assemble a damascus blade handle until everything else is done.
 
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