Just de-assisted mine and I gotta say its like a whole new knife to me. Much better. The assist is cool but kind of took away from the knife, almost too "kershawey" or something. My favorite part is now I can use the thumb studs (blade stops, whatever) to open the knife, which takes almost no effort.
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Received today: ZT 0566
- Thread starter Ruudr
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....and even smoother with a FULL-sized pivot washer on the G10 side as well.... much nicer without the hoky spring making it bind a bit... congrats
dogboye
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Nope brand new. I even had one of the first nr.0026. I saw the difference on a review on youtube from Going Gear.
But ZT handled it really well.
Here is a picture with the old clip.
Mine originally came with the longer clip. I don't know the serno, because for the first time in forever, I don't have it on me. Figured my other knives were getting lonely, so I decided to change up a day. ANYWAY, the longer clip put enough pressure on the lock bar that the blade dragged on opening, consistently. If I moved it to the other end (tip down), the blade FLEW out consistently, no problem with dragging. But then the clip extended forward of the handle scales, literally into the cutting area of the blade. Short story long, I HATED the long clip. Then I got the 0770. It had the short clip like you have above. I switched them out to see hot that worked. It worked PERFECTLY. Now, tip-up carry, the blade still consistently flies out when deployed, no dragging. It still clips fine in my pocket, even though the clip rides right at the lock-bar cut-out. And I've tried it tip-down carry, and the bend of the clip sits properly right at the front of the scales, instead of out into the blade area. IMO, the 0566 should have always been produced with the shorter clip. It just works better. And the longer clip works fine on the 0770. Hopefully you don't find yourself having the same problems as I did with the longer clip. At least you have both long and short, if you decide you don't like the long one.
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From the photo your clip is applying too much pressure on the lockbar. It should never be touching the lockbar when the blade is deployed. The simple solution would be to adjust the pressure the clip puts on the knife. Every knife I get I adjust this if necessary so that I can slip a piece of paper under the clip when the blade is closed. Another issue with tip up and the clip is how you are holding the knife when using the flipper. Pressure with you fingers will do the same as a clip that is to tight.
Ron
Ron
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- Feb 12, 2012
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I have the longer clip and I even bent it so the clip has ultra strong retention and I've never had a problem with the blade dragging or being slow
Got mine earlier this week and love it! Has a very high quality feel to it.
Took out the torsion bar to de-assist the action and have been flipping it to help break in the pivot. Really dig it and it seems to be getting smoother (or my mechanics are adjusting to the knife - my 1st flipper).
Had some issues with the screws/spacers during the process though. ZT is sending replacements. They're not beyond salvage or too much of a worry, but 2 of them definitely aren't performing as designed. Blade is a little off center (not badly) after de-assisting but I'm not going to sweat it until the new hardware arrives. Found a YouTube video about centering Hinderer designs that makes me think it's a pretty easy fix. I'll be back for advice if it doesn't work. Also planning on really cleaning out the grease and applying new lube when I open it back up. Anyone tried using Ballistol on the pivot action?
Where would one go about getting a full sized washer?
Took out the torsion bar to de-assist the action and have been flipping it to help break in the pivot. Really dig it and it seems to be getting smoother (or my mechanics are adjusting to the knife - my 1st flipper).
Had some issues with the screws/spacers during the process though. ZT is sending replacements. They're not beyond salvage or too much of a worry, but 2 of them definitely aren't performing as designed. Blade is a little off center (not badly) after de-assisting but I'm not going to sweat it until the new hardware arrives. Found a YouTube video about centering Hinderer designs that makes me think it's a pretty easy fix. I'll be back for advice if it doesn't work. Also planning on really cleaning out the grease and applying new lube when I open it back up. Anyone tried using Ballistol on the pivot action?
....and even smoother with a FULL-sized pivot washer on the G10 side as well.... much nicer without the hoky spring making it bind a bit... congrats
Where would one go about getting a full sized washer?
http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-kn...gs/washer-bronze-3-16-016-id-with-505-od.html ...... or- I hear you can also get a replacement pivot assy with washers directly from ZT- that will get you an extra .450" OD washer that you can use on the G10 side. I got mine from usaknifemaker- thickness is exactly the same, OD is just a hair larger so watch out for clip mounting screws in that area- no issue on mine tho.
Mine looks exactly the same. Don't know if it's good or bad though.
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As long as the lock bar is not touching the opposite side scale and the lock up is solid nothing to worry about.
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- Sep 3, 2006
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- 3,131
Just wondering, is this too much lockup? Is this something that can be adjusted?
This is the main thing with liner locks and frame locks that people go nuts over. That is awesome lockup. I have seen locks get like this and not move for years. I say keep it and use the crap out of it with the knowledge that it will most likely never fail you.
Hmm, OK. It's never touched, I just see a lot of knives where people talk about having 50% or so lockup and mine is always more than that.
It's not a pain to unlock but I feel like the lockbar is dragging on the blade when it opens, causing it to be slower than the it could be.
Probably shouldn't mess with it though. It's not a problem, per se, just something I thought I'd ask about. My extra parts from ZT should be in this week and I'm looking forward to cleaning it out real well and getting it set up just right.
Ok, got one final question (maybe...probably...).
I got the full size washer in, cleaned out all the factory grease, lubed it all up the way I wanted it and put it back together. Knife is in good shape, but not perfect. Here's my dilemma - I can't seem to get the blade centered exactly the way it should be. I've tried messing with the screws and can't seem to get it centered and be loose enough to operate properly. I think the issue is the lockbar pressing too hard on the blade and forcing it against the G10 side. I don't really feel comfortable trying to bend the lockbar myself though. Is there some trick or procedure to get this thing centered properly? I've got it as good as I can get it now where it's not rubbing on the side of the frame - or if it is, it's extremely light - but it's close. I know I'm being a prima donna with this thing, but hey, it's a pretty pricey knife for me at this point.
I got the full size washer in, cleaned out all the factory grease, lubed it all up the way I wanted it and put it back together. Knife is in good shape, but not perfect. Here's my dilemma - I can't seem to get the blade centered exactly the way it should be. I've tried messing with the screws and can't seem to get it centered and be loose enough to operate properly. I think the issue is the lockbar pressing too hard on the blade and forcing it against the G10 side. I don't really feel comfortable trying to bend the lockbar myself though. Is there some trick or procedure to get this thing centered properly? I've got it as good as I can get it now where it's not rubbing on the side of the frame - or if it is, it's extremely light - but it's close. I know I'm being a prima donna with this thing, but hey, it's a pretty pricey knife for me at this point.
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- May 24, 2006
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There are YouTube videos showing how to center the blade, don't go bending your lock bar! Search for "Blade Centering in YT.
There was one specifically on the 566 but I can't find it at the moment because "Blade Centering" isn't in the video title.
K I did a bit of searching and found this one but I'm sure there are others. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paRewmjnFl0
There was one specifically on the 566 but I can't find it at the moment because "Blade Centering" isn't in the video title.
K I did a bit of searching and found this one but I'm sure there are others. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paRewmjnFl0
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First you can see if the lock bar is the problem. When the knife is open place a wedge between the lock bar and the opposite side (frame). Now the blade should move freely and by itself. This is a good time to adjust the pivot screw. After this adjustment you can try opening the blade normally. If it doesn't open easy you have a lock bar or centering problem. If the blade is not rubbing the side it's likely the lock bar. Make sure that you are not applying pressure with your fingers when opening. I found that in the tip up position the clip applied too much pressure on the lock bar. If you find this bend the clip until you can slide a piece of paper under it.
Ron
Ron