Recommend me a stacked leather knife

Thank you. Ive looked at case & Ka-bar but the construction isnt what im looking for.
 
Whoops!
You did specify threaded....sorry about that.

Wait, I believe the Ka-bar I posted does have a threaded aluminum pommel.
Could you clarify the parameters?
 
I'd personally take a Hattori stacked handle over a Randall, iirc similar prices but not sure how easy to find now.

SOG super Bowie is nice, I like the blade shape but it and the coating may not be to your liking.
 
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Whoops!
You did specify threaded....sorry about that.

Wait, I believe the Ka-bar I posted does have a threaded aluminum pommel.
Could you clarify the parameters?
Not much to clarify really, just looking for one with a threaded tang & a nut in the pommel in a decent steel. Uncoated, no serrations. Single guard, straight clip point blade, kinda like a Randall 5 or the Linders I posted. Doesn't need a finger choil tho.
The one you posted looks like the 1236, so far as I can tell from online pics it doesn't seem to.
 
(It seems you've ruled out this knife, so forgive me. I wrote before completely reading your post.)

My much-loved / well-loved Ka-Bar USN Mk 1 deck knife has been a terrific trail, farm, and (thankfully never realized) SD buddy. If you like Beckers and Ka-Bar and 1095 steel, you'll appreciate the Mk 1. Some balk at its USN pedigree, not wanting a swabbie knife; but the blade design hearkens back to early 20c hunting patterns. I like to think of it as an air/land/sea tool!

o45Rqvz.jpeg


Zieg
 
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There are resellers that get priority on Randal knives. That’s why individual buyers have to wait 5-6 years for one. Which I find ridiculous. I would simply order from one of them at a slight premium, and be done with it.


Yep, or the "pre-owned" market. Many Randalls, as far as I can see, are offered in unused condition, which is how I got mine. Sure, a bit above catalogue, but it's not like you'll make a loss if you decide to pass it on, if you have a bit of patience to look for a good deal in the first place ( i.e., avoid fantasy asks from the bay et al.)

As to the Randalls as such, there are subtle differences to the "clones" that may not be appreciated at first glance when going by mere photos. For example, the #1-7 I posted above has a grind towards the tip that is ever so slightly thickened, both on the primary bevel and the swedge, I suppose to strenghten the tip (or it's just a fluke and a grind gone wrong 😁). Hard to capture in a photo, you have to run your fingers over the blade. It really is multi-faceted; sublime.
 
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This kind of tip-strengthening was sometimes done on historical daggers, so Id bet its deliberate. I know Randall also solders their guards, the Blackjacks dont seem to do that.
 
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This kind of tip-strengthening was sometimes done on historical daggers, so Id bet its deliberate. I know Randall also solders their guards, the Blackjacks dont seem to do that.
Yes, indeed. The only thing that baffles me about this particular knife is why (WHY???) they would pair a nickel-silver guard with an aluminum buttcap. Seriously, be consistent in that, it's only a few bucks more.
 
There are a some nice as-new Marbles Expert knives out there with stacked leather if you look around.....a couple right now on fleabay in fact....
 
BTW, Olumin Olumin , I picked up one of those Hanwei Nyala (I guess the model you were thinking of - and shame on them for using the same name as Chris Reeve with undoubted intent) you mentioned in your initial post when they were pretty new just out of interest and because it was only about 50 euros at the time. I now see it offered at close to 200. It's a thick clunky blade that would not cut well. Avoid! No matter that it is well-constructed.
 
BTW, I picked up one of those Hanwei Nyala (I guess the model you were thinking of - and shame on them for using the same name as Chris Reeve with undoubted intent) you mentioned in your initial post when they were pretty new just out of interest and because it was only about 50 euros at the time. I now see it offered at close to 200. It's a thick clunky blade that would not cut well. Avoid! No matter that it is well-constructed.
Oh wow, you're right. I didn't even look at the blade thickness. Thanks for pointing that out.
 
Thank you. I was really looking more for a full-leather handle, rather then composite. Im also not the biggest fan of forged finishes. Just a personal preference I suppose. I appreciate it.
 
So, Im considering sending these sketches off to a maker.

Its my first knife design, so Im interested to know if I messed anything up. Specifically the design of the tang; too wide, too narrow? I have no idea what the tang in a stacked leather handle is supposed to look like. I took care to round the shoulders tho.

Its very clearly inspired by the Model 5, but fixes some problems I had with the design, such as pulling up the sabre grind & thinning the blade stock. Im planning to have it done in a subtle hollow grind. Not sure about jimping yet, probably yes.

The measurements seem a bit wonky, but thats only because of the 119mm blade. 12cm is max in Germany for legal carry, so it has to be just a tad under. Theres obviously some tolerance.

Also not so sure about the stock thickness. I dont know if makers nowadays still do distal tapered blades & whether or not it costs a load extra. Ill be discussing these things with the maker whenever I decide to commit.

Sketch-v3-blank.png
Sketch-v3.png
 
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(It seems you've ruled out this knife, so forgive me. I wrote before completely reading your post.)

My much-loved / well-loved Ka-Bar USN Mk 1 deck knife has been a terrific trail, farm, and (thankfully never realized) SD buddy. If you like Beckers and Ka-Bar and 1095 steel, you'll appreciate the Mk 1. Some balk at its USN pedigree, not wanting a swabbie knife; but the blade design hearkens back to early 20c hunting patterns. I like to think of it as an air/land/sea tool!

o45Rqvz.jpeg


Zieg
Well said. The 1095 Cro Van (same as Carbon V) steel is a step up from plain 1095. Hard to beat as an all-round cutting tool.
 
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