Recommendation, tough construction worker knife

My thoughts are running to the knives I've bought my old man. While all users, I don't see him carry them much as he thinks they're too nice for the trades work that he does. They were both under a $100 and great budget workers but he still doesn't get it. On the other hand, if you think your old man will use it, I'm leaning towards steels like 440C, 1095, and D2. As a fixed blade, a Boker Pry-Mate, Ka-Bar D'eskabar, or ESEE Izula would probably serve him pretty well. They're all pretty small but stout abusers with plenty of blade and great reputations. I hope this helps.
 
1) Leatherman Wave- utility
2) Cold Steel Recon/Voyager- abuser
3) Zero Tolerance 0550- off work

1- Tools on hand
2-Cold Steel will be soft/"tough" blade steel to not snap under pressure + strong triad lock
3-My 0550 is MY knife, once used to pry open a door jam and manually flip the lock on a van, smooth/sharp/tough ... I only suggest the cold steel because I would kill someone if they "borrowed" my 0550 and I didn't see it again.
 
The Gayle Bradley is hard to beat. It'll take some serious hell for less than $150. The only thing is if he gets frustrated easily (face it, some men throw down anything they can't figure out or do easy in 2 seconds) disengaging the liner lock on it is not the easiest thing in the world...but that's why it was designed the way it is...for work.
 
digitalurbancamo said:
Just buy him a Buck 110 with a leather sheath. Your dad will love it and he will have a VARY strong knife that has stood the test of time. Plus I bet he will know that knife and be excited about it.
Click to expand...

I agree, if you want something smaller, go for a Buck 112 or Buck 500. The 110 is a great knife, but you said you wanted something with a shorter blade. the 112 and 500 have a blade at about 3 1/4" while the 110 blade is around 3 3/4". I have worked heavy construction for many years and I have tried all three and they have all been great. lock backs, very strong, and easy to sharpen. and the leather case does hold up alot better then the nylon one does.
 
Sonnydaze said:
First: Yes, that Ontario, like the Rat 1 and 2, is a good, cheap knife.
Second: Yes, ROCKS, MANY, MANY ROCKS. The CPM-3V steel on the TUFF is the same steel that made SurviveKnives famous. I've had several. And the Gayle Bradley with CPM-M4 blade is an outstanding knife with a blade that stays sharp darned near forever. Of course, all M4 blades do.
You are stuck on $30 Ontario knives, and that's great. I have a few of those that I give to grandkids. For serious work, I spend more, get more. LOTS more. It's just a matter of opinion. VW's will get you to work. So will Hummers.
I hope your day is good,
sonny
Click to expand...
Ha. I'm not stuck on $30 Ontario knives. Read again how I specifically mention the possibility of it being lost or stolen. Anyone who has spent any time in a set of work boots will know how quickly things can go missing on a commercial job site. I wore Red Wings and Carhartt, but most of my tools were trial and error of what was cheap, effective, and expendable. Even then, most of my time working construction I carried a Lion Steel made Sig Tac, and a Zero Tolerance 0350.

I will admit fault on the Bradley, but it doesn't look like something I would want to beat up. Not to mention the tendency of carbon fiber to stain from chemical contact.

Regarding the others, I found out real quick with my Sig Tac that metallic handles suck hard for a laborer job. Even if it's one side. Ever been on a job site where the HVAC isn't up and running and it's -10 degrees outside? Sometimes you have to go gloveless and I assure you, you'll grow a major appreciation for composite and organic handled tools. That doesn't apply only to screwdrivers and hammers.

I also found out that while the blade on harder steels would hold it's edge longer, it was much more convenient to carry something that would hold it's edge a little bit less, but sharpen up really easy with a stone I could carry in my tool bag. Trying to sharpen out a 60HRC recurve with a stone on the job completely sucks. That's actually what made me appreciate American tantos in slightly softer steels. I can get AUS8, (real) 440C, N690, and 14C28N back to shaving sharp in literally under a minute with a little basic stone. I can't say the same for S30V or CPM154, or any higher HRC steel I've tried (including easier chipping in my experience). That's not to say they're not effective, but when it comes to upkeep and hard use, I honestly don't think they're as efficient.

Again, this is just my experience after working decades in autobody and construction. I'm actually out of both of those trades now as a form of employment and only do rare freelance and occasional projects, so naturally, I'm sure there's plenty of people with opinions more valid than mine. I did what worked best for me though and was not let down. If you think I'm emotionally biased towards the Utilitac, you're mistaken. I've been trying to replace it with something more fitting of my new line of work, and have made open criticisms of what it could be better at. The thing is I've never had any other knife that I'd be so neutral towards losing or breaking, but would gladly replace with the same exact example at that price.
 
Apprentice carpenters are partnered with a journeyman, who is expected to show the kid the ropes. I once worked on a state office building, mostly assembling prefab panels. The journeyman they gave me to looked older than God to me. But I learned a lot from him. Carpenters mostly use a Stanley utility knife. But not for everything. For many purposes a longer blade is better. Carving foam to fit in those panels comes to mind. So does cutting insulation. The extra length was more efficient for many other jobs.

My journeyman carried a folding hunter with a one clip blade and one boning blade, both four inches long. I promptly bought one myself. Nothing fancy. No lock, no pocket clip, just an old fashioned slip joint. I carried that knife for decades. It was in the right front pocket of my work pants until I retired. Mind you, I didn’t abuse it. I never pried with the thing. I always had a cat’s paw and my claw hammer with me. With larger bars when I needed them. Neither did I baby it. It served me well, and is still in good shape. The blades are much sharpened, but they still walk and talk.

I don’t know what a modern apprentice carries these days. But they could do worse than a good quality folding hunter. That’s one tough pattern.
 
A quality work knife doesn't have to be (and shouldn't be) expensive. Get him a Victorinox Alox Pioneer and an Opinel (# 8 or # 9), both in stainless steel. The extra tools on the Pioneer ensure that the knife blades are used for cutting and not prying or gouging. The Opinel is to be used when a locking blade is preferred. Solid, light and easy to sharpen work knives, both. I find one hand operation overrated and under-needed when working. If he's been a Tradesman for that long, he probably doesn't burn and churn (like he used to), any more.
You'd likely get better answers if we knew what his job duties are,
 
Last edited:
  • Spyderco Gayle Bradley
  • Zero Tolerance 0550
  • Benchmade 940
  • DPx HEST/F 2.0
  • LionSteel SR-2 Al or Ti
  • Boker Minos
  • Fantoni HB02
 
tricker said:
any knife+prying=fail

wrong tool

prying isn't typically in the plane where lock strength matters
Click to expand...
Agreed on both accounts. Prying tests the hardware, liners, and bladegrind most. Not that I've never pried with a knife.

In fact, I would have been stuck in a stairwell for 12 hours at one point due to faulty reporting of a maintenance crew had I not had my knife on me and pried with it. That's the only time I can say I did it out of absolute necessity. The following times at that same door were just out of convenience as carrying a prybar or screwdriver around with me wasn't exactly logical. Had I been carrying my Skyline, I would have been getting mucho overtime and peeing on the floor.
 
This is always a difficult topic. The reason I say that is because we here on BF are all knife folks. I mean really, if you take the time to sign up, or more specifically, buy a paid membership on a knife forum, you have more interest than the "average" person who carries a knife. Because of this, our opinions on knives are often very different than what the "average" person is likely to think. Although we try to think about what a non addict would use, it's impossible. I believe we are all biased. That is NOT a bad thing, just is. Think about this: we have already put more thought into this knife decision FOR this Gentleman that we don't even know than the average person puts into their knife buying decision. :) That bias being stated, my picks would be: BM Griptilian. Good design, strong enough for most tasks, not expensive, available in many steels. A Gayle Bradley. It's super tough, great steel, not OVERLY pricey for what you get. Last, a Spyderco Tuff. They are hell bent for strong. Outstanding steel, and I don't think you can get much stronger in a folder. Not inexpensive, but a stout, well built knife in TOUGH steel.
 
How about a D2 Mini-Griptilian from Cabelas?
cToBANb.jpg
 
Here are several of the ones mentioned in this thread thus far (plus a couple others). Of these, I'd say the one that feels "toughest" is the ZT 0550. Robust pivot, thick blade stock, and good amount of steel left at the tip. It has a high flat grind as well, so it actually makes for a pretty decent slicer too. Next up would be the Superleaf with it's very thick (4mm) blade stock. The Superleaf has a finer tip, but if it does snap off, you can just regrind it to more of a chisel or tanto shape, and you'll have a very tough blade. The GB, Vantage, and Lawman are all hollow-ground. So, the blade just behind the cutting edge will be thinner. While it may have some advantages for slicing, it may also not survive prying quite as well (especially if the force is concentrated on the thinner part of the blade).

Knives are sorted by blade length (cutting edge). The longest (Griptilian) is just under 3.5", and the shortest is the Superleaf at just under 3".

Left to right: Griptilian 551, ZT 0550, RAT-1, Gayle Bradley, Vantage Pro, American Lawman, Superleaf
(click on the images for higher-res pics)

1171628_comparison1_open_800x498.jpg




 
Last edited:
either an Izula or Izula II with TKC G10 scales and a nice leather sheath from Skystorm would make for an ideal working man's knife. :thumbup:
 
I've pried with one when I was a stupid kid and I've watched oodles pry despite advice to the contrary. I understand your point, but one at least most models the end of the blade in the handle becomes the point of application for a lever's force, that lever being the blade, and it ain't good for what holds the end together.

On another point in this thread, I love Buck 110s as being All-American, beautiful, and charismatic, BUT they are thick and heavy without being any stronger may subsequent designs and not as stout as some. And, the pivot point is relatively weak. They are a lot of weight for not so much payoff. I have one and I love it, but just saying.cwd
 
Go for a spyderco captian you have a outward cat and a recurve for excessive cutting not to mention you can pry and chop and fits size limits will be hard to find but well worth it
 
I've seen multiple people recommend the zt 0550 which is a great knife. I have one, but I would also add the zt 0566 as it's nearly the same as the 0550 only shorter with a few other minor differences. It's got a 3.25" blade instead of a 3.5". Although, still a bit pricier than a knife I would recommend to beat on for work. I carry one with my during work too, but only use it for cutting. I carry a cheaper Kershaw that I use as my beater knife.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top