Refurbish a Buck 560 Titanium

K

knifedonk

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2022
Messages
83
Hey guys,
I just bought a Buck 560 Titanium.
A good condition one looks like this:
16814586632_ec5cc4baa6_c.jpg


BUT...mine is pretty beat up and very filthy inside and out.
So my plan is to refurbish it a bit. Clean it, put on a new egde, polish etc

It's no problem to drill out the old rivets, but I'm afraid I don't have the right tool to put new ones.
So my question is: Are aftermarket bodyscrews/pivot for this knife a thing? If so, where to buy? Basically go from rivets to screws.
Or is it enough to give it a good cleaning without disassembling it, since it's a pretty basic construction anyway.

Thank you!
 
HexY3co said:
Send it to buck they will rehab it for cheap. Will look new if not to beat.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Didn't know you could do that.
But I guess it won't be worth to do that since I live in Europe. 2x shipping plus what Buck charges.
 
knifedonk said:
Thank you. Didn't know you could do that.
But I guess it won't be worth to do that since I live in Europe. 2x shipping plus what Buck charges.
Click to expand...
It might be cheaper than you think. At least for Buck's part of it. Search for threads on "Buck SPA treatment". It stands for Sharpen, Polish, Adjust. I've heard stories of them working miracles on old knives. Good luck!
 
Midnight Rider said:
It might be cheaper than you think. At least for Buck's part of it. Search for threads on "Buck SPA treatment". It stands for Sharpen, Polish, Adjust. I've heard stories of them working miracles on old knives. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Just saw some before and after pictures of the SPA treatments and I am really impressed. Also it is much cheaper than I expected it to be.
But, shipping would still be around $60 from here, so I really don't know if that's a good deal for a knife that's maybe worth $75 in that condition. Also takes around 3 months from what I've read.
Thank you for your input. 👍

Let me tell you one thing guys... collecting knives as a hobby is much better in the US. Prices are much cheaper, better laws (in some states) and just a much bigger offer in general.
But I'm still enjoying it and that's what matters I guess ;)
 
knifedonk said:
Just saw some before and after pictures of the SPA treatments and I am really impressed. Also it is much cheaper than I expected it to be.
But, shipping would still be around $60 from here, so I really don't know if that's a good deal for a knife that's maybe worth $75 in that condition. Also takes around 3 months from what I've read.
Thank you for your input. 👍

Let me tell you one thing guys... collecting knives as a hobby everything is much better in the US. Prices are much cheaper, better laws (in some states) and just a much bigger offer in general.
But I'm still enjoying it and that's what matters I guess ;)
Click to expand...

There! I fixed it for you! 😁
 
knifedonk said:
Hey guys,
I just bought a Buck 560 Titanium.
A good condition one looks like this:
16814586632_ec5cc4baa6_c.jpg


BUT...mine is pretty beat up and very filthy inside and out.
So my plan is to refurbish it a bit. Clean it, put on a new egde, polish etc

It's no problem to drill out the old rivets, but I'm afraid I don't have the right tool to put new ones.
So my question is: Are aftermarket bodyscrews/pivot for this knife a thing? If so, where to buy? Basically go from rivets to screws.
Or is it enough to give it a good cleaning without disassembling it, since it's a pretty basic construction anyway.

Thank you!
Click to expand...
You may have difficulty drilling out the rivets. They’re stainless steel, and they spin when the drilling gets tough. You can get #2X56TPI screw sets from R.B. Johnson. You will need 4 sets if you want to replace all the rivets. Only 1 set if you just want to replace the blade. I usually turn 1 screw and the barrel into a T-nut using Red LocTite. Then I can disassemble the knife by removing the untreated screw.View attachment 2155261View attachment 2155260
 
tiguy7 said:
You may have difficulty drilling out the rivets. They’re stainless steel, and they spin when the drilling gets tough. You can get #2X56TPI screw sets from R.B. Johnson. You will need 4 sets if you want to replace all the rivets. Only 1 set if you just want to replace the blade. I usually turn 1 screw and the barrel into a T-nut using Red LocTite. Then I can disassemble the knife by removing the untreated screw.View attachment 2155261View attachment 2155260
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. That's exactly what I was looking for.
 
After a lot of WD-40, Q-tips, soap, water and some elbow grease, this is how it looks now.
Someone clearly changed the rivets before (or atleast tried to) and left plenty visible marks on both sides.
Also there is some blade play. Tiny bit up and down, aswell as left and right. Is there a way to fix this without putting new rivets/screws?
The blade seems to be in good condition luckily. Still with a nice tip.
Does anyone know from what year this knife is?

8T82mkA.png
tIDL3P6.png
bUm8DC8.png
p1cYx0l.png
 
knifedonk said:
Thank you.
Very helpful link. Didn't know that those stamps indicate the year it was made.
Click to expand...

You're welcome! It's an eye opener when you finally discover that chart.

It can make you sad, too. When you find an older Buck (based on the tang stamp) that's in really bad shape, it feels like something is being lost when you refurbish/repair or send it to Buck.
 
rhino said:
It can make you sad, too. When you find an older Buck (based on the tang stamp) that's in really bad shape, it feels like something is being lost when you refurbish/repair or send it to Buck.
Click to expand...
I have a hard time thinking of any Buck knife, with a year mark on the tangs stamp, as an older Buck. It just doesn't seem like 1986 was that long ago. I guess I must be starting to get old.

O.B.
 
Old Biker said:
I have a hard time thinking of any Buck knife, with a year mark on the tangs stamp, as an older Buck. It just doesn't seem like 1986 was that long ago. I guess I must be starting to get old.

O.B.
Click to expand...

I see what you mean! The oldest 110s are only 1964, so is that really old?

Still, when I had the "packrat" 2-dot 112 re-bladed, I was happy to give the frame new life, but it was sad that previous owners made the original blade useless.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top