Rehash on the MUCK

[Daniel Koster]

I'm just copy/pasting text from the write-up I did on the MUCK when I sent out the prototype.

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Ok, guys...here's my final CAD drawing...it's now or never....:thumbup:


Name for this one: M.U.C.K.

(My Ultimate Camp Knife)


I found a local source for some 3/16" O1 (which will be lighter than the 1/4" 5160 I have on hand) - so I'm going to take a shot at it. It won't be as tough as 3V, but O1 aint no slouch either!!

Have a look and let me know what you think.

I included a "ruler" for reference.

Part of my reasoning for this size/shape:

I want it to be able to fit in a Spec Ops Combat Master Short sheath

..yet get as much blade as possible in there.


I angled the blade forward (not too unlike a kukri) for better chopping

Exposed pommel for crushing

Lanyard hole at the back (beyond the grip...won't get in the way of your hand while using the knife)


The blade "reverse tapers" (gets wider as it goes toward the tip) for added weight in chopping. This has been time-tested with my Survivor knife.

Spear-point tip (better for digging over a drop point; nice and stabby too)

False edge to lighten the tip a bit and make penetration easier

Thumbgooves on top for striking a firesteel and for grip retention

The tang will be significantly drilled out to make this knife very light/easy to carry. I will also be providing a multi-position kydex sheath and will just let the tester decide which he likes better.

The handle will be make out of 3/8" thick Natural Canvas Micarta with some palm-swell/contouring - will be heavily bead-blasted for extra grip.


Next step is to cut out the steel. :thumbup:




Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

Ok....here we go!!!




I managed to get it cut out on the bandsaw.


When I started....the blank weighed 12.3 ounces


Here it is after I drilled out the handle:

You can see I've shaved off 2.1 ounces from the handle...doesn't sound like a lot but it represents almost 1/5th of the weight!




And here it is after I've started the grinds.

I did not grind them all the way up because I need to leave some shoulder for heat-treat....which allows me to use quench plates after quenching to straighten while the steel is still "fluid" and not cooled down below 400F.

O1 rarely warps...but it's part of my "process" now...so I do it mostly out of habit.

And you can see more weight has been knocked off (nearly another 1/4th).

:thumbup:



I will heat-treat this over the weekend and post pics later.


Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

Ok - done now!!



Pics.....!!!




first off....here's a pic on the scale of the knife after glue-up:

And then a pic of it finished:

(I managed to take nearly another ounce off)






And here's the Glamour Shot:

 

[Daniel Koster]

And some more pics....



Different angles...

A close-up showing the lanyard hole (and highlighting the blue liners)

Same angle, but better for showing the pommel strike.

The front ricasso/handle area - also good shot for showing just how 'textured' and grippy the natural canvas micarta can be.

 

[Daniel Koster]

And now for some "In-Hand" pics.


I really like this blade length - to - handle ratio. Feels great. How come I never made anything in this size before?!?!?

Plenty of room in the handle for even the largest hands.





Reverse grip.


Note: All edges have been chamfered/rounded so that this is a super-comfy grip.

I also made sure the handle angle and the grip geometry would allow for a blade-up hammer grip. It's not as good as a dagger would be...but it's alot better than expected.

And now the Moment Of Truth...where does it balance?

Right in front of the first pin.


Reasoning = I wanted this to have some forward weight to it - for better chopping. But not so much that you lose the fine touch needed for more delicate tasks. Therefore, the POB is *just barely* in front of the first finger.

I didn't want a Beater....nor did I want a "Toothpick". Both of those designs are great designs, but more specific in their application. The idea behind this (as I understand it) was to make a more general all-around Camp Knife...capable of taking on several tasks, and not specializing in just one.

Which is why I went for a flat grind instead of a scandi grind. The scandi will do better on fuzz sticks and batoning, but will not slice as nicely...and a flat grind with a swedge will penetrate much better.

I love the look of wood...but unless it is checkered, it won't be as grippy as canvas micarta - which is not only grippy dry, but even when it's wet.

I removed the handle material around the lanyard tube so that the lanyard wouldn't "poke out" as wide as usual and be more "out of the way". Those that use lanyards on fixed blades will know exactly what I mean. Also, I wanted to leave room for a small pommel crusher (always handy, and fun to use). I found myself the other day on a fishing/hunting trip wishing I had a pommel crusher to knock out the fish and small game quickly/easily. At the time I resorted to whacking it with the handle (holding it by the blade)...I didn't want to use a rock...I wanted to use my knife...and it fell short. So, there ya go now.


The front of the handle is curved and also tapered. This something not a lot of knifemakers do...but a feature that matters a lot to me. The taper makes going in and out of a sheath easier, with less wear-n-tear on the handle. Plus, it makes it comfortable to choke up on the blade in an "Ulu-pinch-grip"...if you know what I mean.

I have also found that I prefer a "gentle curve" to the outside of the handle (from top to bottom) and then a quick radius to the underside/topside of the handle. A truly round handle can rotate in your hand as you twist while using it. But a "Tall Oval" gives you leverage...and "breaking" the corners and rounding them makes it comfy without losing that leverage.



Feel free to tell me what you think of it. But keep in mind, I ain't changing it (till after testing anyway).


Thanks for the Challenge, pitdog!!

Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

Ok - now for the up-to-date part....



I am looking to get this started in a couple months or so.....now is the time to rehash the design and let your voice be heard on handle materials and blade thickness/steel/grind/etc.


All comments are welcome!

Dan

 

[Marcelo Cantu]

That is simply gorgeous! I would like to see what you can do with osage orange. What is your projected price point on this one?

 

[chainring]

I like it.

 

[Boggs]

I actually like the way it looks in the second photo from the top..the grind lines not extended to the top has a very appealing appearance...you just might have two knives in this design..one being your MUCK and the second a more tactical fighter look.
The only thing I'd like to see different is a completely "finished" knife as opposed to the rough forged look on the tang and just above the top grind.

 

[Daniel Koster]

Yes - the as-forged is prototype-only. Standard finish will be stone-tumbled finish like the BushMasters.

:thumbup:

Dan

 

[Steven65]

I love it and I am a definite customer but please Dan can we have a Stainless option?

 

[Daniel Koster]

Sure thing - what do you suggest?


I can't get CPM154 at this time....has to be something else.

Dan

 

[vvk]

3V or D2

 

[din]

1095 or 3V. NCM.

 

[Daniel Koster]

I'm definitely doing a short run in 3V and perhaps D2.


What about S30V for stainless?

I can also get 19c27 - a great swedish steel (Sandvik). easy to sharpen, very stain-resistant (as good or better than 440)

Dan

 

[Warriorsociologist]

S90v?

 

[Daniel Koster]

Yes - that would be a good option too.

Dan

 

[MagicDot]

Cool blade.. ..maybe by the time this is ready for production the economy will have picked up so I have extra scratch so I can get a big blade to accompany my Koster bushcraft..

..I wonder if you'd ever do something like a B&T for some finer stuff..

 

[Steven65]

I'm definitely doing a short run in 3V and perhaps D2.
What about S30V for stainless?
I can also get 19c27 - a great swedish steel (Sandvik). easy to sharpen, very stain-resistant (as good or better than 440) Dan

S30V or 19c27 would work for me.....:thumbup:
I will probably take a D2 one as well........

Any chance that you may have some of these at Blade?

 

[Daniel Koster]

Yes - that is the plan....to have some at the Blade Show (doubt I'll have 'em any sooner!...this stuff takes some prior planning...)



How do you guys feel about this first run being done in D2?

Dan