Remind me, why do we pry with our knives, again?

I don’t pry with any of my knives, folders or fixed. Not even with my $50 rat 1. Never had a “need”. I just go get a pry bar.
 
jpm2 said:
Would you rather -
Crawl out from under a public toilet stall on your belly,
Or
Pry the broken latch open with your knife blade.
Click to expand...
Frailer said:
False dilemma. I’ll use the P-38 on my keyring or my SAK’s cap lifter.

But, as I mentioned earlier, you are completely free to do you.
Click to expand...
Nope, the sak screwdriver was too short, and not sharp enough to grab the metal latch, it takes a sharp point. Same with the P-38

Try again.
 
So, I am a convert of sorts. In the Cold Steel forum, we talked about some survival needs, such as acquiring fatwood or punkwood, and in extreme need, digging for grubs. For these reasons, you might test the tip to see if it will not fail when you really need it. I tested two fixed blades with pointy tips yesterday; thought for sure they would fail... but they didn't!
 
I dont pry. Use the right tool for the job and all that.... I used to, back when I was an uncultured savage (kid, lol) and I pryed with knives because they were convenient. When I grew up, I quit prying with knives and I carry a pry tool (p38 usually).
What really did it for me was one time when my boss in the Army asked to borrow my knife (Benchmade Presidio Ultra) and then promptly snapped a half inch off the blade by prying. :eek: So no, I dont pry. Its a terrible idea, and any knife that is thin enough to cut with, is thin enough to snap if pryed with.
 
I will if a knife is clearly made for it, and if the company that sells it offers replacement blades for reasonable prices. Example: The Cold Steel SR1 is reasonably affordable IMO and has a blade and tip thicker than most pry bars. I've tried to break it, just for fun, by prying wood and nails to zero effect. I've used similarly built knives to pry tough material away from cuts on some occasions.

Conversely, I love thin slicy knives that cut well, and I would never pry with one of those in a non-cutting capacity unless I had no other option, which is not a situation I have ever found myself in.
 
marrenmiller said:
I will if a knife is clearly made for it, and if the company that sells it offers replacement blades for reasonable prices. Example: The Cold Steel SR1 is reasonably affordable IMO and has a blade and tip thicker than most pry bars. I've tried to break it, just for fun, by prying wood and nails to zero effect. I've used similarly built knives to pry tough material away from cuts on some occasions.

Conversely, I love thin slicy knives that cut well, and I would never pry with one of those in a non-cutting capacity unless I had no other option, which is not a situation I have ever found myself in.
Click to expand...
They are making a low cost SR1 in 8Cr13MoV now, same dimensions, just cheaper materials.
 
dogstar said:
They are making a low cost SR1 in 8Cr13MoV now, same dimensions, just cheaper materials.
Click to expand...
Honestly, even better for the intended use of that knife. It doesn't really cut well enough to justify high wear steel anyway. That being said, I like keeping mine around.
 
jpm2 said:
Would you rather -
Crawl out from under a public toilet stall on your belly,
Or
Pry the broken latch open with your knife blade.
Click to expand...

I can only assume you once found yourself in this situation. I can also assume that if the mechanism and/or framing was so weak that you could pry it with a knife blade, a swift donkey kick or 3 would get the job done as well.
 
because I was in construction most of my life like a lot of guys hear! I learned use a proper tool for the job , I don't recommend prying or spine-waking with your knifes:thumbsdown: there I said it.
 
Planterz said:
I can only assume you once found yourself in this situation. I can also assume that if the mechanism and/or framing was so weak that you could pry it with a knife blade, a swift donkey kick or 3 would get the job done as well.
Click to expand...
1st assumption correct, 2nd not so much.
 
This is why thick blades still have their places in the market - they can cut and they can pry. I don't imagine the tip of Hinderer XM Spanto will break due to prying (heck I think the regular slicer tip should survive too). Those who only want super thin blades should definitely bring with them also a pry bar if prying is a foreseeable task.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top