Repairing Micarta

Warrior108 said:
These made me cringe at the thought and I muttered a sentence that started with "Ya crazy ......" (endearingly of course) :D Nonetheless, thanks for doing this and taking one for the team. lol
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im sure i've been called worse:D

no problem. it's been factory repaired. On the clock :D
 
Nice tutorial... you can also get the particulates down by sanding under running water at the sink... but with the minimal at gas and particulate produced a respirator and a spot where air circulates well is fine


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VANCE said:
Step 1. Use a respirator.

Step 2. Grab 220 & 400 grit sandpaper. Also find some gray & white scotch brite pads.

Step 3. Tape up blade to protect your knife & yourself ( i didn’t...shame on me) & put in a soft sided vise.

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Use a scrap piece of leather as a backer to the sandpaper.
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Here, always go up/down never side to side.
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Move along to the 400 grit.
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Grab a small scrap piece of wood,micarta or whatever you have that is hard sided & roughly 2 x 1.5”
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Here I have the sandpaper flush w/ the top of my backer. I am only taking less than a ½” stroke.
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Done w/ the 220 grit
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Through the 400grit & scotch brite.
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Wiped down w/ a little Howards Feed-n- Wax.
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...what he said. :D i can't see the pics here at work. i'll check it all out later. good show. :thumbup:
 
You guys never cease to amaze me. What amazing customer service, Phillip!
 
pertinux said:
Above and beyond, VANCE. Above and beyond.
thumbup1.gif~original


~ P.
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hasco said:
That was a great tutorial! Thanks so much for doing that!!
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Hulk2e said:
You guys never cease to amaze me. What amazing customer service, Phillip!
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thanks errybody.


honestly,
it was easier for me to do this than to write it all out. getting my thoughts onto paper in the correct order is sometimes a struggle for me. you may or may not have noticed that most of my responses to posts are short and sweet and that's why.:o

my wife says im a terrible story teller too.
 
Thanks for taking the time to show us this process. A novice would think, hey it's only sanding-- but I'd be so wrong.

Could you maybe capture the epoxy mixing process next. Do you put part A into Part B, or is it Part B into Part A, do you color it before you mix or after, do you measure by volume or by weight, or by a semi-calibrated eye ball measurement. Do you adjust for temperature and humidity? Mix counter-clockwise or clockwise, or do you just gently shake it. Do you let the pot kick off before use or do you just start right away, brush or squeegee application? What type of wet film thickness do you shoot for? Just writing all this out shows me why people screw it up all the time on Forged in Fire.

Really, thanks for taking the time to show this and I'm sorry about my creative writing exercise, I just spent the last two hours editing a specification for flushing a water system, so I needed a little mind shift.


Thanks!

BTW- Epoxy mixing and camera's don't mix well in the end.
 
swonut said:
Thanks for taking the time to show us this process. A novice would think, hey it's only sanding-- but I'd be so wrong.

Could you maybe capture the epoxy mixing process next. Do you put part A into Part B, or is it Part B into Part A, do you color it before you mix or after, do you measure by volume or by weight, or by a semi-calibrated eye ball measurement. Do you adjust for temperature and humidity? Mix counter-clockwise or clockwise, or do you just gently shake it. Do you let the pot kick off before use or do you just start right away, brush or squeegee application? What type of wet film thickness do you shoot for? Just writing all this out shows me why people screw it up all the time on Forged in Fire.

Really, thanks for taking the time to show this and I'm sorry about my creative writing exercise, I just spent the last two hours editing a specification for flushing a water system, so I needed a little mind shift.


Thanks!

BTW- Epoxy mixing and camera's don't mix well in the end.
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The epoxy.
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The dye
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We carefully mix them by volume based on Kyle & Cody's best guesstimate. "A" & "B" at the same time
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The dye is added after the epoxy & hardener has been thoroughly mixed.

We use the gloop & spread method using a Popsicle stick. A toothpick is also essential. It is used to swirl epoxy into the holes that have been drilled out.
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The pins & Bullseye are also coated w/ epoxy.
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here is the application thickness you are looking for
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A counter-clockwise swirl?




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Seeing you have already sanded and refinished, I'm too late.

An easy way to fix MINOR dents and scrapes is to take a piece of wax paper and dam the area and take over it to form a temporary holding area behind the scratch.

Mix some 2 part 5 minute epoxy and fill the area in front of the wax paper. Wait to dry completely. Remove dam materials. Sand to smooth again. I like to use fingerboards from my wife's nail kit. They come from course (220) to ultra fine (720) and even polishing (3000). They work well on steel as well.

For future reference.

Larry
Tinkerer
 
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