Reprofiling an edge

The difference just 5 to 10 degree makes is amazing. I normally sharpen my knives to a 30 degree angle, inclusive. But lately, I re-did a few to a 20 degree angle, inclusive, to see how that worked. They are not heavy use knives and I feel it's strong enough; and it cuts like it never did before. The difference is very noticeable.

What really convinced me is the 16 degree Shun kitchen knives. They cut like lasers.
 
We all know that sharpening a knife is a learned skill. :thumbup:

Unfortunately, a lot of people don't seem to realize that using a knife properly is also a learned skill. None of us are born "instinctively" knowing the proper way to use a knife. :(
 
Ben Dover said:
We all know that sharpening a knife is a learned skill. :thumbup:

Unfortunately, a lot of people don't seem to realize that using a knife properly is also a learned skill. None of us are born "instinctively" knowing the proper way to use a knife. :(
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Well said sir. And I've got the scars to prove it from a youth of learning it the hard way. I didn't come from a super-outdoorsy, knife and gun-happy clan so I was kinda on my own (and from the South no less, that's an oddity). I intend to change that from here on out :D
 
Is there a system (like the sharpmaker) that you guys use to reprofile a 20' blade to a 15'? I might want to reprofile my IZULA (that im waiting for) and another 1 of my folders. Whats a good price i should expect to pay for something that can easily reprofile blades to any degree and where is a good place to buy 1?

Some say the diamond rods that come with the sharpmaker are not good to reprofile thats why im asking this before i purchase the diamond rods.

Also what is the green compound people speak of and what is a good strop option or will a good leather belt get the job done?
 
RC, I don't understand this; reprofile a 20 ft. blade to a 15 ft. blade ??
The green compound is a Chromium oxide paste or wax based bar . It enhances a strop to cut the knifes metal quicker . Yes, a belt could probably be used as a strop just as a butter knife could be used to carve the Thanksgiving day turkey if sharpened correctly . You just won't impress mother-in-law with the results . DM
 
rc3mil said:
Is there a system (like the sharpmaker) that you guys use to reprofile a 20' blade to a 15'? I might want to reprofile my IZULA (that im waiting for) and another 1 of my folders. Whats a good price i should expect to pay for something that can easily reprofile blades to any degree and where is a good place to buy 1?

Some say the diamond rods that come with the sharpmaker are not good to reprofile thats why im asking this before i purchase the diamond rods.

Also what is the green compound people speak of and what is a good strop option or will a good leather belt get the job done?
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Anything that can file off a bit of steel to change the blade angle will work. Diamond stones/rods that are courser will take of the steel faster which is very convenient, but will leave a rougher edge. Finer stones/rods will polish that edge and once you are done stropping will polish the edge even more.
To take a knife with the edge beveled to 20° down to 15° all you need to do is hold the knife at an angle of 15° to an abrasive surface like a diamond rod on a sharpmaker or a bench stone, then move the knife against the surface until the shoulder is worn down and you have a sharp edge at a 15° angle.

I have just ordered 2 more stones for my DMT Aligner (Extra Extra Course & Extra Course) to bring my total to 6 (EE Course, E Course, Course, Fine, E Fine, EE Fine) and that will make it much quicker and easier to create a new edge profile and then I can use the finer stones to polish that edge. Once I finish on a strop most knives will easily shave the hairs off my arm (once they grow back).
 
I found a need to reprofile my BM Griptilian. I had a mess on my hands and the edge was duller than a ball peen hammer. I cut me a ramp out of a 4 x 4 piece of doug fir, at 12 degrees, 24 inclusive, and set my DMT diasharp coarse bench stone on it, maintain level knife blade as I sharpen, raise the handle through the curve to maintain bevel around belly, and now have a thinner edge, that is so fun to cut with. I use DMT coarse,then brown and white spyderco profile set about popsicle stick wide, and then the fatty ultra fine 3" wide spyderco to polish, but then strop of course.... Free hand! Learn it, fun, rewarding, and reprofiling happens much faster this way, especially with DMT coarse, it eats blade steel well, almost too well sometimes, great product...
 
rc3mil said:
Is there a system (like the sharpmaker) that you guys use to reprofile a 20' blade to a 15'? I might want to reprofile my IZULA (that im waiting for) and another 1 of my folders. Whats a good price i should expect to pay for something that can easily reprofile blades to any degree and where is a good place to buy 1?

Some say the diamond rods that come with the sharpmaker are not good to reprofile thats why im asking this before i purchase the diamond rods.

Also what is the green compound people speak of and what is a good strop option or will a good leather belt get the job done?
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There is an excellent tool for re-profiling a blade. :thumbup:

It's called an Edge-Pro:

www.edgeproinc.com
 
Gotsouthern said:
Yes, thank you! Was driving me nuts lol.

' = foot

" = inch
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Actually if we're talking about angles here, ° = degrees, ' = minutes (60 min in a degree), and " = seconds (60 seconds in a minute; 3600 seconds in a degree)

That said, a 15' edge must be a damned delicate thing :D
 
I just used the Spyderco Sharpmaker with the diamond rods to set my CPM M4 Mule to 30 degrees. I did not have time until the rest of the family went to bed, so I went slowly and it still did not take very long by my standards. Oh and I was also watching TV at the time so I would get caught up in the show now and then. I then took the same 30 degree setting for the brown rods as well as the white rods. It came out very well indeed.

Now I'm looking forward to the new Mule steel CPM S35VN to try when it is released on the 12th of this month.

Best wishes to each of you in this new year!

Doug
 
rc3mil said:
Is there a system (like the sharpmaker) that you guys use to reprofile a 20' blade to a 15'? I might want to reprofile my IZULA (that im waiting for) and another 1 of my folders. Whats a good price i should expect to pay for something that can easily reprofile blades to any degree and where is a good place to buy 1?

Some say the diamond rods that come with the sharpmaker are not good to reprofile thats why im asking this before i purchase the diamond rods.

Also what is the green compound people speak of and what is a good strop option or will a good leather belt get the job done?
Click to expand...

I use paper wheels to reprofile and polish. It takes me about 5 minutes for the whole process and I go very slow since I'm still new at this. The more experienced folks can probably reprofile an average knife much quicker and with a better looking result than I can right now.

As for the cost, it will be around 70 or 80 dollars for the setup. The paper wheels and included supplies are around $50 bucks and you can pickup a bench grider on line for 30 or 40 bucks.
 
knifenut1013 said:
What edge would you rather have?

Picture005.jpg


Picture008.jpg
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Beautiful! A couple pictures are indeed worth a thousand words. :thumbup:

.
 
rc3mil said:
What is the point? What is wrong with the 20' factory bevels? Im kinda new to knives and angles and sharpening and want to know what everyone is talking about. if a 20' edge is still hair shaving sharp, then what is the point of re profiling?

What systems/methods do you use to re profile you blades and why?
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With all the talk about angles, and finishes, don't forget that as you continue to sharpen the primary edge gets thicker over time, as it moves back in to the blade, and needs to be thinned with a compound bevel which gives a shape more like a convex edge. This is re-profiling too.

Also, sometime, when you have the time, it might be a good time to knock of the shoulder and thin the edge a bit to make sharpening, the now thinner edge, faster and easier for later on when you don't have the time and need a quick touch up.

Gary

PS the edge above looks toothy.
 
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