Rike 1507s I material

[expidia1]

Sorry about the title, I meant to say “ball detent material made of” but im typing on an iphone and it cut it off and i cant edit the title now. I received this Rike 1507s that I bought here off another member. It was represented accurately by the seller. It is not a new knife, but it is in excellent condition.
But I like to tweak my knives to adjust to the way I feel they should operate.

I was thinking of sending it back to Rike for them to possibly adjust it. But I think Ive isolated the issue.
I opened it up and cleaned and lubricated it and the blade swings pretty freely.
My issue is how much pressure it takes on the tip of my finger on the flipper to release the blade. I’ve just now isolated it to the ball when in the detent is the problem. If I move the blade so the ball is not seated this blade works great.

Does anyone know what material the ball material is made of? Id like to open it up again and touch the ball with a dremel. I figure if i screw it up i can send it into Rike like I was going to do anyway. But Id like to fix it myself as their website says send it into them in brooklyn NY and if they cant fix it they send it back to their facility in China. I’d like to avoid them putting my “new to me” knife on the proverbial slow boat to China if I can solve this myself. Love the style and anodized purple and blue look of this knife!

if the ball which looks to be ceramic is touched with a dremel stone do you think it will crack?

 

[danbot]

I received this Rike 1507s that I bought here off another member. It was represented accurately by the seller. It is not a new knife, but it is in excellent condition.
But I like to tweak my knives to adjust to the way I feel they should operate.

I was thinking of sending it back to Rike for them to possibly adjust it. But I think Ive isolated the issue.
I opened it up and cleaned and lubricated it and the blade swings pretty freely.
My issue is how much pressure it takes on the tip of my finger on the flipper to release the blade. I’ve just now isolated it to the ball when in the detent is the problem. If I move the blade so the ball is not seated this blade works great.

Does anyone know what material the ball material is made of? Id like to open it up again and touch the ball with a dremel. I figure if i screw it up i can send it into Rike like I was going to do anyway. But Id like to fix it myself as their website says send it into them in brooklyn NY and if they cant fix it they send it back to their facility in China. I’d like to avoid them putting my “new to me” knife on the proverbial slow boat to China if I can solve this myself. Love the style and anodized purple and blue look of this knife!

You might be better off to bend the lock bar slightly to loosen the detent.

 

[marcinek]

So your intent is to "fix" it, and then if you fail return it to them to "fix"?

 

[marrenmiller]

No no no no no, don't do that!

It's almost certainly a ceramic ball. You're not going to be able to grind it down well and it'll leave a rough surface that scratches your blade.

The correct way to address detent strength is to disassemble it and adjust the lockbar tension. If that fails, you could press the ball in a little further, but at that point I'd personally just leave the tension high and live with it.

 

[danbot]

Overcoming the detent also provides the inertia to flip the blade all the way to the locked position. How loose do you really need it?

 

[expidia1]

No no no no no, don't do that!

It's almost certainly a ceramic ball. You're not going to be able to grind it down well and it'll leave a rough surface that scratches your blade.

The correct way to address detent strength is to disassemble it and adjust the lockbar tension. If that fails, you could press the ball in a little further, but at that point I'd personally just leave the tension high and love with it.

thanks for that response. As the first poster suggested to bend the lockbar that would seem logical but its all titanium and I fear it will snap then im screwed as I would have to pay Rike to repair it and they would have replace and reanodize the whole knife as it would never match doing one side. My other fear and ill post a pic is Om disappointed in the looks to be only 20% of the blade tang being held by the lockbar. This was another reason I might have to send it back to them. I was going to have some other owners look at how much their lockbar covers when locked. most of my other knives are 25 to 50%.

 

[expidia1]

Overcoming the detent also provides the inertia to flip the blade all the way to the locked position. How loose do you really need it?

its not the free swinging of the blade its the pressing power needed directly on the blade flipper tab that is killing my finger tip. I own other flippers and for. knife that is in the $300 area it should not take this high an amount of pressure to release the blade. I only got it yesterday and i can only get it to release 20% of the time and my finger is still sore from yesterday!

 

[expidia1]

my pics to show you as an example will have to be reduced in size when i get home.

 

[danbot]

its not the free swinging of the blade its the pressing power needed directly on the blade flipper tab that is killing my finger tip. I own other flippers and for. knife that is in the $300 area it should not take this high an amount of pressure to release the blade. I only got it yesterday and i can only get it to release 20% of the time and my finger is still sore from yesterday!

Are you sure that you're not putting pressure on the lock bar with your other fingers while trying to flip it? Sometimes its just a matter of technique.

 

[marrenmiller]

It won't snap, I've done it a bunch of times with no issues. Just be very gentle and only bend it a tiny amount. Titanium is a ductile material, it won't just snap or crack.

Lockup % can vary from knife to knife. Don't worry about it so long as it locks up tightly, as that's all that matters.

Edit: It's worth noting that the lockbar is bent from the factory to get it to provide a detent. You're not going to damage it.

thanks for that response. As the first poster suggested to bend the lockbar that would seem logical but its all titanium and I fear it will snap then im screwed as I would have to pay Rike to repair it and they would have replace and reanodize the whole knife as it would never match doing one side. My other fear and ill post a pic is Om disappointed in the looks to be only 20% of the blade tang being held by the lockbar. This was another reason I might have to send it back to them. I was going to have some other owners look at how much their lockbar covers when locked. most of my other knives are 25 to 50%.

 

[Hackenslash]

Are you sure that you're not putting pressure on the lock bar with your other fingers while trying to flip it? Sometimes its just a matter of technique.

This.
The Rike 1507 is a Kwaiken style and very prone to lock bar pressure when flipping. As he claims to have me on Ignore, somebody let the OP know to keep his fingers squarely on the clip and give it a try.

 

[expidia1]

thanks danbot... YOU DA MAN! I think this is exactly what I was doing. I wonder why it flipped so easily sometimes and the very next try it would be like the blade was screwed into the frame. then of course I got even madder at it and squeezed it even harder hahaha. you will see once I post the pics of this rike how thin this entire knife is and the the lockbar is 1/2 the knifes left side. plus the intergral clips design the tip 1/2 of it is resting on the lockbar itself. but you cant see that unless you lift the clip and peak under it.
Danbot, clearly they dont pay you enough here for your ability to have figured that out for me so quickly.
once I get the pics up i might need suggestions of how to hold this really thin model.

 

[danbot]

thanks danbot... YOU DA MAN! I think this is exactly what I was doing. I wonder why it flipped so easily sometimes and the very next try it would be like the blade was screwed into the frame. then of course I got even madder at it and squeezed it even harder hahaha. you will see once I post the pics of this rike how thin this entire knife is and the the lockbar is 1/2 the knifes left side. plus the intergral clips design the tip 1/2 of it is resting on the lockbar itself. but you cant see that unless you lift the clip and peak under it.
Danbot, clearly they dont pay you enough here for your ability to have figured that out for me so quickly.
once I get the pics up i might need suggestions of how to hold this really thin model.

Well, just experience. The ZT0450 is the same. If you keep your fingers on the clip it should take care of that for you.

 

[expidia1]

It won't snap, I've done it a bunch of times with no issues. Just be very gentle and only bend it a tiny amount. Titanium is a ductile material, it won't just snap or crack.

Lockup % can vary from knife to knife. Don't worry about it so long as it locks up tightly, as that's all that matters.

Edit: It's worth noting that the lockbar is bent from the factory to get it to provide a detent. You're not going to damage it.

ok, thats great news. once i learn how to hold this design to flip it without touching the lockbar at least i know from your post that I can move that lock bar if need be. This knife is of a beautiful design F&F wise. But you might be right in the adjustability of the lockbar because when I was trying to isolate the too tight to open comfortably issue... i did notice the fit of the lockbar on the ouside there was a slight edge protruding from the side of bottom part of the case because the lockbar is too tight and thats why i figured it to be pressing too much on the ball but feared bending or snapping the lock bar or losing more of what seems to be not enough of the end of the lockbar on the blade tang when blade is fully opened and locked in place. Ill show you what I mean in pics ill post later.

 

[expidia1]

Here is the pic of the lockup:

 

[expidia1]

And the side pic of the lockbar wich looks to be slightly in putting extra pressure on the ball and giving an edge to the case that should be flush. I might try and bend it out a tad. I can alwys bend it back if I went too far.

 

[danbot]

Here is the pic of the lockup: View attachment 880470

I would leave it just the way it is. Looks about perfect to me.

 

[expidia1]

See how the bump on the inside of the pocket clip rests on the split between the case and the lockbar. The slightest pressure on the clip while in my hand pushes on the lockbar pressing harder onto the dentent ball.
Now I just have to figure out how to hold it to flip open the blade as there is not much real estate left on the lockbar side?
Anyone know if there is any purpose to that deep square open space beneath the middle of clip or is it just design?

 

[danbot]

Play around with her for awhile and you'll figure out how she likes to be held!

 

[expidia1]

Play around with her for awhile and you'll figure out how she likes to be held!

Sounds like my old days at the drive in!

Even from a review on youtube of this exact model those blade lock tabs on each side do nothing else but stop the blade. Clearly, the consenus was that at least the one on the lock side could have been more of a thumb stud design so you could at least start the ball out of the detent as you are pressing on the flipper tab at the same time.
Even to try and bend it a tad there is a bult in metal on metal stop at the end of the lockbar when I try and excert a little more pressure towards the outside.

I'll play around with it to see if I can come up with a better way to grip it. So far it might be my first knife going to the sales block, if I cant get it to open easier than it does now.
I'd like to hear from other Rike owners of this model as to how easy they find it to flip open and what grip they use. Rike has many models of this exact style the only thing that changes is the color of the anodizing.