Rike 1507s I material

expidia1 said:
Now I just have to figure out how to hold it to flip open the blade as there is not much real estate left on the lockbar side?
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Sometimes I have trouble flipping open my knives too. There's a secrete not well known here to coat the blade and handles to make it permanently lubricated.

You just need to soak the entire knife in a cup of San Pellegrino for about 20 minutes. Make sure it's the stuff that comes in the glass bottles. I'm not sure how it works, but I think it has something to do with a chemical reaction due to the flouride in Pellegrino. I did it to my Sebenza and it's like a whole new knife!
 
i vote take the dremel to it.:)

kidding. adjusting grip on frame locks is a must on flippers and some thumb stud openers typically. i wouldnt bend the lock bar either. no point to it. if ya bend it too far youll wish ya hadnt.
 
Blues Bender said:
Sometimes I have trouble flipping open my knives too. There's a secrete not well known here to coat the blade and handles to make it permanently lubricated.

You just need to soak the entire knife in a cup of San Pellegrino for about 20 minutes. Make sure it's the stuff that comes in the glass bottles. I'm not sure how it works, but I think it has something to do with a chemical reaction due to the flouride in Pellegrino. I did it to my Sebenza and it's like a whole new knife!
Click to expand...

Don't know if your comment is "tongue and cheek" but certain lubricating oils have flouride in them. What do most of you use as a lubricant when cleaning and putting a knife back together. I watched Nick Shabazz reviewing my exact model on youtube last night and he used what he called Nano oil on the bearings. These reviewers Im sure get free stuff to tout up, so I'd rather get some recommendations from our actual members here.
Thx
 
jbmonkey said:
i vote take the dremel to it.:)

kidding. adjusting grip on frame locks is a must on flippers and some thumb stud openers typically. i wouldnt bend the lock bar either. no point to it. if ya bend it too far youll wish ya hadnt.
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Seems like good advice . . . thx for that response.
 
expidia1 said:
Don't know if your comment is "tongue and cheek" but certain lubricating oils have flouride in them. What do most of you use as a lubricant when cleaning and putting a knife back together. I watched Nick Shabazz reviewing my exact model on youtube last night and he used what he called Nano oil on the bearings. These reviewers Im sure get free stuff to tout up, so I'd rather get some recommendations from our actual members here.
Thx
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San Pelle works wonders. Its effervescence helps it penetrate all the nooks and crannies. I found the aranciata rossa variety to work the best.
 
Somehow when I see the boys with the higher post counts . . . they always appear to me that many of them may be just a para millitary hiding under Sebenza scales. I picture a small band of elitist blade forums members of their praetorian guard club trying to send the new guy astray and having a good yuck at my expense. If you took the time to be so helpful to me, then take little more time and send me an "outside" link of what you are describing to restore my faith in some of the high posters here :D
 
trevitrace said:
San Pelle works wonders. Its effervescence helps it penetrate all the nooks and crannies. I found the aranciata rossa variety to work the best.
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I personally like nano oil, it's not bad at all. Doesn't smell like anything and seems to work great. Applicator tip is nice too.

Edit: Just noticed specifically what you're talking about. Hahahaha
 
From everything I can see with your knife, there's nothing wrong with it. It just has a stiff detent most likely, which is by design with Rike knives.

The lockbar looks exactly like it's supposed to, lockup percentage and all. I think you might just not be used to high end framelocks? The lockbar is supposed to be exactly as your pictures have demonstrated, as far as I can see.
 
When you find yourself struggling with a flipper, always adjust your grip before anything else. What I do is wrap my middle and ring fingers (sometimes the pinky, too) around - placing the fingertips against the outer edge of the clip, pulling it into my hand to secure it. This gives good purchase on the knife while eliminating pressure on the lockbar.
View attachment 880560
 
expidia1 said:
Somehow when I see the boys with the higher post counts . . . they always appear to me that many of them may be just a para millitary hiding under Sebenza scales. I picture a small band of elitist blade forums members of their praetorian guard club trying to send the new guy astray and having a good yuck at my expense. If you took the time to be so helpful to me, then take little more time and send me an "outside" link of what you are describing to restore my faith in some of the high posters here :D
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naw...good bunch here. lots of industry knowledge and insight into all things cutlery as well as life topics in general. they put up with me and that says it all.....:)
 
Your knife looks good to me.
If you can't get comfortable with it I suggest you sell it rather than muck around. I once had a ZT 0450 and I couldn't flip it without contorting my hand in an unnatural way. So I sold it.
I've also tweaked a number of knives with success. I think you need to ease in before attempting a mod.
 
Blues Bender said:
I've never tried it with aranciata rossa. Do you soak it in regular Pellegrino afterwards to clear the knife of any sugar? I don't like a sticky knife:mad:
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You could give it a jostle in normal san pelle afterwards but you risk losing the lovely fragrance imparted by the aranciata rossa.
 
Wow, you guys are great (not the bored clowns with no life though).

It's purrrfect now. Glad they stopped me from grinding on the ceramic ball.
This knife now works fluidly exactly like a $285 knife should. No more sore finger tips . . . yipee!

I know some said to bend the lockbar as it wont break and others said don't do it . . .
I'm a rebel at heart so I took it apart again and found out what was stopping me from bending the lockbar out a little to take some pressure off the ball detent.
It was the metal tab (picured to the right of the pivot hole in the top case). Shows the black ceramic ball there too. It was held in place by one outside screw. Once I removed the screw and metal stop I was able to bend the lockbar a little outwards and reassemble. As expected I went a little too far
but I simply opened it up again and went back to 1/2 of what I went out the first time.

NOW this beautiful knife works exactly as I know how it was designed to open. A slight flick of the blade flipper and it slams in position almost as fast as my assisted knives. And I can still feel a click as the ball drops back into the hole in the blade when I close it.
I'll go back in after I get a decent lube for my knives. For now Im using a dry lubricant (sentry tuff glide) that I use on my guns. Great stuff, no oily residual dripping off in pocket. but its not a grease that will last longer.

So all in all, this knife is da bomb now and thanks to many of the members who chimed in with their help . . . check out the pic of it's innards and check out the link of it on knifecenter.com of this exact knife and color . . . I love it . . . now!
I don't know how anyone would settle for a stiff knife that they paid $285 for without seeking out whats wrong with it. I know if I sent it back to the factory it might come back the exact same way, only months later from China.

Now I know that a small Sebenza has a somewhat slow hydraulic type opening movement/speed after I got my first one a week ago and I was taught by members here that a Sebenza is not a flipper. But I knew this Rike was a flea flicker and I wouldn't give up until it worked as designed.

https://www.bladehq.com/item--Rike-Knife-1507s-Kwaiken-Framelock--33156

and P.S. I also read that squirting soda water up your ass is incredibly refreshing for the right type of members here;)

IMG_5877.jpg
 
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hhmoore said:
When you find yourself struggling with a flipper, always adjust your grip before anything else. What I do is wrap my middle and ring fingers (sometimes the pinky, too) around - placing the fingertips against the outer edge of the clip, pulling it into my hand to secure it. This gives good purchase on the knife while eliminating pressure on the lockbar.
View attachment 880560
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Thanks for taking the time to post that pic. This particular knife does not leave much room on the upper half to grip it as 3/4 of the upper half is lockbar. But now that I finally got the lockbar pressure lightened up a little (explained in my last post) it doesnt matter that my fingers are on the lockbar anymore. It flys open now with a flick.
 
Glad you got it to where you like it! I find that after modding a knife it becomes more special to me.
For lube I use Benchmade's Blue lube and I also use Finish Line Extreme Fluoro which is available at the dominant online marketplace. Looks like there are a number of similar greases that come in a syringe.
If you lube the detent track it can help quite a bit.
 
I use finish line winter bike chainube on some a finish line extreme fluro on others. Some actions feel better with grease and some with oil though I will say both of my bearing knives are rolling in grease
 
GermanyChris said:
I use finish line winter bike chainube on some a finish line extreme fluro on others. Some actions feel better with grease and some with oil though I will say both of my bearing knives are rolling in grease
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Ya, bearings like grease for sure. I'll order some of the finish line fluro and some bike lube too.

I ordered both.
 
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