Rivets on a sheath

R

R.C.Reichert

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Jul 26, 2008
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Hello there. I am trying to make some sheaths for some knives I have recently completed. I would like to use copper rivets instead of stitching to hold the belt loop on at the back of the sheath. I was wondering if there was something I could do with the inside of the sheath where the flat part of the rivets are exposed to keep them from scratching the blade. Would I just glue a thin piece of leather to cover them or what is the best thing to do?
 
You can glue in a thin leather liner to protect the knife. Or you can counter sink the hole inside the sheath (if the leather is thick enough) by using a sharp utility to trim around the punched hole to create a divot for the rivet to sit in. Then it will likely never touch the blade as long as the rivet is below the level of the rest of the leather.

--nathan
 
I do both. Countersink the hole and then cover with a thin piece of leather. I use a forstner bit chucked in the drill press to make my countersunk holes.
 
Would recommend you take the time to stitch the sheath instead of using rivets. After hundreds of shows and thousands of customer remarks about sheaths, it's not good overall. Have seen many of makers lose a sale due to the sheath, so for what it's worth, I would say forget the rivets. At one show a maker was asked to remove the sheaths from his table because they all had rivets. Good luck.
 
I think he's just looking at using the rivet for the belt loop. I agree that I prefer a totally stitched sheath, but in instances of spring clips and other attachment devices, a rivet is sometimes the only way to go.

--nathan
 
Not trying to hijack the thread.But being asked to remove your work from a show table,because the sheaths have rivets?!?!.Seems a bit rude,and elitist to me,and a show I wouldn't care to be a part of.Just my two cents
 
elasmonut said:
>> being asked to remove your work from a show table,because the sheaths have rivets?!?!.Seems a bit rude,and elitist to me,and a show I wouldn't care to be a part of.Just my two cents
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Yep, Lots of makers would agree, Some high end shows set the standard and don't mind if they loose a maker or two to maintain a standard. Especially international shows I have attended throughout Europe.
My point was just to make folks aware of what I have seen at shows and what reactions I have experienced/seen about rivets on sheaths.
 
While I do agree that riveted leather sheaths dont look classy, but they do work and will function for years

hmm pulled work huh?? that would be a fun show to attend ;)
 
R.C. here's a pic of my favorite knife and it's sheath. It's a Puma Skinner made in Germany and the sheath is constructed using both, rivits and stiching. And they to me scream rugged functionality

Puma%20Stag%20Skinner1.jpg
 
I have glued felt on the inside to keep the rivet from rubbing. However I like stitching also and am learning to stitch my sheaths now. Felt is thin and easy to glue in the sheath & seems to do a decent job of keeping the rivet from rubbing. Hope this helps.
 
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Looks great! Side note, what do you do to dome the handle pins?

I think that rivets on a sheath look good, personally. Stitched looks good as well, but when real old, frayed stitching ruins the look imo.
 
R.C.,

I love those sheaths, and I am a fellow fan of rivets. I don't think I would put them on a showpiece sheath, but all I make (well, except for a couple) are serious working knives. There's no getting around the fact that riveting is a very effective reinforcement method and is often needed on a sheath that is going to be beat up every day. I don't worry with scratch protection myself. I rivet such that the flare is inside the sheath and the button is outside. The flare is flat enough that I've never had a problem with scratching, but I don't know if I could differentiate a rivet scratch from he thousands of other scratches my knives pick up, and I cater to customers who are of like mind. Therefore, I don't know if it would matter much in my case anyway. Do you form the rear of the sheaths? I don't, and the handle thckness lifts the blade free of the back of the sheath enough that I'm not even sure the blade COULD contact the rivets.
 
The handle pins are just done with a small ball pien hammer after they are filed down to just under 1/8" long. I did not counter sink the wood as I wanted the hand-peened effect to stand out. I thought it kinda gave the knives a more old-fashioned hand-made look to them. As for the sheaths, they are made with latigo leather that is pre-dyed and very tough. Did not do much for forming it, just made the leather wet and used a hair drier to form it around the knife a bit. Thanks for the compliments.:)
 
There's no getting around the fact that riveting is a very effective reinforcement method and is often needed on a sheath that is going to be beat up every day.
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You dont see rivets on gun holsters , so I would say they are not needed if designed and contructed well.

For some designs , rivets look period correct , but for modern stuff , I don't think they add anything. A properly done welt doesn't need rivets for daily use.
 
John T Wylie Jr said:
You dont see rivets on gun holsters , so I would say they are not needed if designed and contructed well.

For some designs , rivets look period correct , but for modern stuff , I don't think they add anything. A properly done welt doesn't need rivets for daily use.
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Ah, but do you not see them because they aren't needed or do you not see them for the same reason you don't see them on sheaths? I've personally had plenty of both come apart because the stitching pulled out, but I beat the crap out of both. It's kinda like somebody telling me "you don't NEED a .45, a 9mm will do the trick if it's done right." True in the fullest sense of the word, but when it hits the fan, I WANT it.

Now, that may be a little dramatic since we're talking about stiching vs rivets, but I'm here to tell you that the first time one of my sheaths comes apart on some dude 25 miles in the backcountry of Montana, it won't be because the stitching came apart, it'll be because a damn grizzly bear ate the thing and spit the rivets out.
 
Ah, but do you not see them because they aren't needed or do you not see them for the same reason you don't see them on sheaths?
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I am all about function over form , but it is strictly my opinion the reason they are not needed on holsters ( as well as sheaths ) are because they are not needed if the stitching is done correctly. One of my 1911 holsters ( an Alessi ) I have worn for over 20 years , pretty darn close to everyday , and it has not come apart , nor even started to , 2 months ago I lent it to a friend to use until he gets one of his own as I wanted to try out a new holster.

Rivets are a personal preference , and while they may add additional security for some designs , a well stitched sheath with a sufficiently done welt doesn't need them to be able to stand the use of day in / day out use.

Other than western rigs and period correct sheaths , I haven't seen many use rivets.

I guess it all boils down to what you put your faith in and what works for you , either way , leather still beats kydex ;)
 
I have tried using the artificial sinew before and the non-dyed type leather, but I find that when the leather dye is applied, the dye gets into the sinew and seems to dissolve away the wax that holds the fibers together. After that happens, the sinew frays really easily. Anyone else have that problem and how does one resolve this? I appreciate your guys criticism as far as the rivets are concerned. Thanks.
 
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