Ron Newton MS - the making of a damascus / ivory spearpoint Bowie.

Wow. I get to be the steward of this for a few days? Swweeeet. Chuck will do this piece right. I'll make sure Mr. Long's work shares the stage.

So the handle, spacers, guard, etc all come off as a one piece unit away from the blade and tang? They are sealed and locked shut? This is new to me, but sounding very secure.

Thanks for doing this, Roger.

Coop
 
The man who found the Dead Sea scrolls could not have felt more elated than I..:eek::D

A treasure, Fred
 
Got the word from Ron this evening that the knife will be on its way to Texas tomorrow, and after a short stay in scenic Kerrville, it will be on its way to Coop
and then FINALLY on to Roger, who I am sure is anxious to hold this beauty.

Paul
 
I don't visit the forums much due to staying in the shop all the time but after seeing the many kind and complimentary words written here I definitely felt I should say thanks to all who have written. My humble thanks to many friends, peers, and collectors.

I got to visit Chuck Ward's photography studio today and he captured several poses of the knife. As soon as he does his digital magic I'll forward the montage photo to Roger to share on this thread.

The answer to the question about the hydrocarbon solvent I use instead of flux: I purchased a 5 gallon can of industrial parts cleaning solvent marketed by Chemtrec and bought at Tractor Supply (TSI) in Arkansas. It's not karosene but I've have great success with karosene as well. I lean towards the Chemtrec solvent due to the added degreasing and cleaning characterisitcs.
I have tried wd40 and parks50 oil and had no success with clean welds. The Chemtrec product has never let me down.

Coop- The handle comes apart in the following sequence: The 2 spline drive screws are removed, then the pommel cap. Then the allen finial knob is unscrewed. With the blade secured with leather softeners in a vise the ivory can then be pulled off the tang. Then the dowel pinned guard and spacer can be pulled off the tang. I prefer to epoxy bed the guard seperate from the handle in case the guard ever needs cleaned up and re-etched some day.

I'd be glad to answer any construction or technique questions.

Thanks again to all and to Roger for his patience to fill this order and the opportunity to do so.
 
Ron

It has been an enjoyable WIP and I look forward to seeing the completed package. I picked up a few cool and clever ideas from this WIP just as I always do when I talk to you or see your work.

Thanks again to you and Roger.

Brian
 
RonNewton said:
I don't visit the forums much due to staying in the shop all the time but after seeing the many kind and complimentary words written here I definitely felt I should say thanks to all who have written. My humble thanks to many friends, peers, and collectors.

I got to visit Chuck Ward's photography studio today and he captured several poses of the knife. As soon as he does his digital magic I'll forward the montage photo to Roger to share on this thread.

The answer to the question about the hydrocarbon solvent I use instead of flux: I purchased a 5 gallon can of industrial parts cleaning solvent marketed by Chemtrec and bought at Tractor Supply (TSI) in Arkansas. It's not karosene but I've have great success with karosene as well. I lean towards the Chemtrec solvent due to the added degreasing and cleaning characterisitcs.
I have tried wd40 and parks50 oil and had no success with clean welds. The Chemtrec product has never let me down.

Coop- The handle comes apart in the following sequence: The 2 spline drive screws are removed, then the pommel cap. Then the allen finial knob is unscrewed. With the blade secured with leather softeners in a vise the ivory can then be pulled off the tang. Then the dowel pinned guard and spacer can be pulled off the tang. I prefer to epoxy bed the guard seperate from the handle in case the guard ever needs cleaned up and re-etched some day.

I'd be glad to answer any construction or technique questions.

Thanks again to all and to Roger for his patience to fill this order and the opportunity to do so.
Click to expand...



hey Ron can you explane why and how it works with a thin layer of carbon all over the steel it seems counter productive to make a weld...i know it works i just dont understand it

thanks
 
A very well thought out project that's coming together
very nicely......Really looking forward to final photos.
 
My thanks to the both of you. An outstanding WIP. I picked up several excellant techniques as I always do whenever being around Ron. I don't know of a finer role model, both in knife making and personally.

Ron,

I hope that you can make the Branson Show again this year. It's always a pleasure.

Gary
 
Lon,
A critical thing about forge welding is to keep oxygen away from the steels. A layer of hot flux or a film of carbon soot both shield a hot billet from oxygen while coming up to welding temperature. Using a "reducing environment" or fuel enriched environment in the forge also eliminates more oxygen which makes for betting forge welding. The carbon soot residue created from the burned kerosene is absorbed into the steel, but hot flux cannot be absorbed so therefore if trapped between steel layers you get cold shuts which are welding flaws.

I'm missing your point on counter productivity using kerosene. With flux there is always the risk and reality of welding flaws and forge contamination which are very counter productive. Flux builds up and contaminates forges that have to be periodicly re-lined with insulation. The kerosene use keeps your forge burning clean for many years. It was never fun in the old days of 20 mule team borax to have to take time out to re-line a forge. Ceramic insulation and satanite aren't cheap these days.

That's my take on how hydrocarbons work and benefit smiths, but the most convincing factor for me has been the extremely clean damascus, billet after billet using hydrocarbons. I highly recommend you give it a try.
 
when i was first learning to forge weld i read a book that said if you want a spot not to weld cover it with accetalne soot the soot will keep it from welding...i know the hydrocarbon thing works i just guess i really dont understand whats going on in the weld joint...IE the borax as the flux is a acid at 1400 or so it cleans the steel and allows the trash to flow out....i haven't tried it YET but its in the works to do so
 
Tractor Supply is apparently carrying Crown parts cleaner now instead of Chemtec. Are most of these solutions gong to be the same formula?
RonNewton said:
I don't visit the forums much due to staying in the shop all the time but after seeing the many kind and complimentary words written here I definitely felt I should say thanks to all who have written. My humble thanks to many friends, peers, and collectors.

I got to visit Chuck Ward's photography studio today and he captured several poses of the knife. As soon as he does his digital magic I'll forward the montage photo to Roger to share on this thread.

The answer to the question about the hydrocarbon solvent I use instead of flux: I purchased a 5 gallon can of industrial parts cleaning solvent marketed by Chemtrec and bought at Tractor Supply (TSI) in Arkansas. It's not karosene but I've have great success with karosene as well. I lean towards the Chemtrec solvent due to the added degreasing and cleaning characterisitcs.
I have tried wd40 and parks50 oil and had no success with clean welds. The Chemtrec product has never let me down.

Coop- The handle comes apart in the following sequence: The 2 spline drive screws are removed, then the pommel cap. Then the allen finial knob is unscrewed. With the blade secured with leather softeners in a vise the ivory can then be pulled off the tang. Then the dowel pinned guard and spacer can be pulled off the tang. I prefer to epoxy bed the guard seperate from the handle in case the guard ever needs cleaned up and re-etched some day.

I'd be glad to answer any construction or technique questions.

Thanks again to all and to Roger for his patience to fill this order and the opportunity to do so.
Click to expand...
 
RonNewton said:
Gary, You're too kind. I do plan to see you in Branson next month.
Ron
Click to expand...

Ron,

The hammer-in/show will be the same format as last year including Friday night at my home shop (I promise not to put you to work this year).

You're welcome to get in the cutting competition again if you want so bring a competition knife with you if you so chose. [;)Crowell & Lairson need some good competition.] I may even try my hand at it myself this year. (Did you ever make a competition knife w/your special quench like you talked about?)

See you there. Glad you can make it.

Gary
 
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EXCEPTIONAL in every way!! Thanks to Ron and Roger for taking the time to create this WIP and CONGRATS to both maker and owner on an incredible knife!

The tools are great to see as well.

Peter
 
This has been a great thread. Thank you very much for taking the time to post this up. Ron's work is stellar and this is one is fantastic. Roger congratulations on a fine, fine addition.'

Jon
 
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