Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints

Sent you a VM with that link I mentioned, Rich. Thanks for letting me know your VM capability was up and running!
As for SAKs, I sure think they're traditional folders, and don't limit my discussion of them to the Multitools/Multipurpose subforum!

- GT
 
Well I got my replacement to the RR Dogleg Jack that I sent back a couple days ago. Instead of chancing another of the exact same model, I found what they are calling a Mini-Canoe lockback that I liked a little better instead.

It's a weird little critter. It is part of the Dogleg Jack line which means that the body sort of bend up like a dog's leg. I have seen this before, but I thought that the bend went the other way on most other manufacturers:confused: Anyway, it's a pretty handy little design with its locking spear blade and a spey on the other side. It's a small knife. Not one that is likely to displace my medium stockman as my EDC, but it's a nice little knife that might find its way into my pocket when I need to pack something smaller. The more I play around with it, the more I might carry it instead of the Barlow I picked up last week.

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Here's a pic of it next to my EDC medium Case stockman. The goofy lanyard and Pandora bead are already cut off the knife. It's neat idea, but that crap always get in the way. I'm not big on lanyards of any kind on anything, really.

But the big question: Is it any better than the disappointing floppy 3 bladed Dogleg Jack? Short answer: Yes:)
While the walk and talk on the main blade doesn't exactly sing, it doesn't flop open with a mild flick of my wrist and locks up with next to no blade play in any direction. It's more than good enough for a $13 knife. The spey doesn't have quite the nailbusting resistance of the one I sent back. However, I'm guessing that was because the other one had a pen and sheepsfoot on a single spring. Fit and finish are very good for such an inexpensive knife. The bone scales match well enough, and there is only a little bit of a gap between the scale and bolster on one side, and that's probably due to the dramatic angle making it hard to match everything back up 100% Once again, for 13 smackers...not bad at all. There is a little bit more of a gap where the lock spring meets the rest of the back spring, but it doesn't seem to be a failure point.

The blades are sharp enough for most, but I prefer to get my edges sharp enough to give a lightsaber the willies. The steel feels soft enough that I should be able to make hair popping with little effort

I like the little Dogleg Jack embossed on the main blade, but the whole 440 razor shape steel lettering on the reverse side is getting polished off because I think it looks stupid:P

So, color me a casual fan:) I still want a nice Case or GEC for my birthday, but when I get the new knife itch, I think picking up a RR to play with is going to be just the ticket:)
 
As mentioned earlier, I just got a RR "cannittler". The main blade was a bit stiff and rough opening, but after a little oil and working it back and forth a dozen or so times, it works fine now. I have a preference for clip point main blades, so I re-profiled the spear point to a clip (just draw a line from a bit in front of the nail nick to the point); easy, light grinding with a lot of water cooling, then polishing the back with various grades of emory and it's a beautiful knife. I was going to do the same with the Marble's whittler, but the back side swedge is too close and deep at the nail nick such that it would leave a strange "nick" at that point, so I will leave it alone. Nice knife, but I would have preferred a clip point.
Rich
 
I don't know of any RR or Colt printed catalog, but I have a website that I often go to to look for models of those knives (I've never actually ordered from them, though). It seems to be quite comprehensive for RR, but I'm aware of some Colt models that don't show up there. I don't think it's legal for me to include a link here, so I'll send it to you in a Visitor's Message, Rich.

- GT

I'm not sure which knife or knives you are referring to but for whatever it's worth, a particular website that I cannot mention here lists the Colt "Railsplitter" as the Colt Rancher Stockman. It's the same knife that we call the Railsplitter. They just have a different name for it.
 
Colt . Marbles . rough rider . schrade by Taylor brands . case
 
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Pardon a dumb question. What is the purpose of the titanium coating on blades? It doesn't go to the edge or if it starts out there, it's gone with the first sharpening. Most modern blades (traditional and not) are stainless so I just don't get the reason for the titanium coat. I tend to emory it off on those few (non-traditional) blades that have it.
Thanks
Rich
 
Pardon a dumb question. What is the purpose of the titanium coating on blades? It doesn't go to the edge or if it starts out there, it's gone with the first sharpening. Most modern blades (traditional and not) are stainless so I just don't get the reason for the titanium coat. I tend to emory it off on those few (non-traditional) blades that have it.
Thanks
Rich

Hi Rich these are carbon blades and and the titanium coatings are very strong . and IMO is very hard to remove . and it dose protecte against rust . unfortunately you don't get the patina :D
 
Hi Rich these are carbon blades and and the titanium coatings are very strong . and IMO is very hard to remove . and it dose protecte against rust . unfortunately you don't get the patina :D

With all respect, I see titanium coatings on lots of stainless blades and find it is only microns thick and easily removed with light use of 600 (or finer) emory. On carbon blades, it could be useful, but I see no reason for it on stainless. Below is copied from a dealer site on Colt Titanium knife:

"Colt CT590 Knives Folder Knife Whittler Titanium Coated Blades Folding

4 1/2" closed. Clip, spey and pen blades. Titanium Series - 2013. Knives feature titanium coated 440 stainless blade(s), black smooth bone handles with grooved and pinched nickel silver bolsters and Colt script inlay shield. Master blade features "Titanium" etch. Gift boxed."

Note it says titanium coated 440 stainless. The description is the same for all Colt Titanium series knives listed there. Perhaps there are different series of Colt Titaniums, some with non-stainless carbon blades??

Yes, answered my own question. There are different series of Colt Titanium with carbon blades. For those, titanium might be a useful rust inhibitor. I guess we were talking apples and oranges. Sorry for any confusion.

Rich
 
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The two that R.c.s. has are carbon. I've had my eye on that canoe and the description was titanium coated carbon.
Edit: Guess we posted at the same time, you saw there is a carbon series.
 
Anyone run into RR's Christmas editions? When I ordered them, I had no idea they had all the spine and spring work, but was pleasantly surprised. And etched on both blades. I think they're really great for inexpensive knives. I meant to order a bunch for gifts, but time got past me. Maybe next year.

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I have several Rough Rider knives, and have always been impressed by them, especially for the price. I just got this Marbles in the mail, and it's a beast. Excellent fit and finish, fairly sharp from the box, with great walk and talk. Slightly on the stiff side of medium, as far as pull goes, but smooth.

For $14, how can you go wrong?
 
I somehow inexplicably contracted a very serious case of "EO teardrop jack envy" in the past month or so. :confused:
In the hope of curing myself, or at least reducing the symptoms, I ordered a Colt teardrop jack, which recently arrived! :)
I'm VERY happy with this "buckshot bone" Colt: very good solid fit and finish, quite sharp out of the box (actually a pretty fancy box, for that matter). Maybe someday I'll work up the courage to try to add (or is it subtract?) an easy-open notch! :eek::p
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- GT
 
@ GT, that's a great looking knife:thumbup: really like the bone covers, that spacer between the bone and bolsters is a nice touch as well.

Nice swedges, that's a lot of knife for the price and a great one to try your hand at an EO notch. I use a drum sander attachment on my Dremel and go slow. I check and re-check the EO placement then proceed. I finish the notch with 600 to 1,000 grit wet/dry sandpaper:thumbup:
 
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