Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints

jdswitters said:
And I notice the nail nicks are on opposite sides of the knife. I got a denim micarta in the same pattern and took a grinder to the pen blade so I could get the main blade out. During that process I got a bunch of gunk in the pivot and now the blade grinds. For the price I might try one more time, it would go so well with the baby bee.
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The wasp barlow arrived two days ago, carried it all day yesterday. After dealing with the blue jean barlow this was knife pleasant to use and is everything the previous posters have said. This brings my total of RR up to 4. The blue jean barlow(crap) the reserve brown micarta razor(favorite slip joint now out of a modest collection a dozen or so traditionals not counting SAK) the baby bee (fun) and the wasp barlow( good value working knife, I dont intend to collect them).

cheers,
 
sf fanatic said:
I just pulled out one of my other R&R barlows and realized the blade configuration is opposite of how the Wasp is assembled. I guess that’s why the nail nicks are on the opposite sides of the Wasp blades. 🤷 Anyway both are great value for their price.
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Oh yeah, I forgot mine also came with a zit on pile side boldster.
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Got my second RR in the mail this morning, a Canoe from the Wasp series. :)

Fit and finish on this example is slightly poorer than on my Barlow, but still solid and still punching well above its price point. It's my first Canoe, and this pattern is just as lovely as I'd hoped it would be. I'm a sucker for fully sunk (or otherwise concealed) joints!

Edited to add: I spoke too soon, the sharpening job on the spear blade is so poor that fixing would mean the tip would be exposed. This one's going to have to be replaced -- which, to my surprise, SMKW handles differently for their RR knives (at least the budget ones, like this one). They just replace it, and only if the replacement is also defective do you need to send anything back (in that case, both knives).

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I saw a video of a major US online knife shop and they showed some new Cold Steel Traditional knives.
Based on the look, the matchstick pull and the opening sound they seem to be made by the same company as RR. About 30 USD as I recall
 
interesting. I wonder if CS specified a low CR-MoV or 420J2 or 440A/440C (or "equivalent") or D2 for the blade steel.
The Kudu and Kudu Light I bought after LT sold the company, had the blade steel downgraded from the 1.4116 Krupp my pre-sale Kudu and Eland have to 5CR15MoV. 😟 At least the Krupp steel is 440A class. 5CR15MoV is below 440A. 7CR17MoV Is (allegedly) "440A Equivalent".

Edit: I just checked the CS website. Nothing in "new products" and a search for "slip joint" had zero hits.
 
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Had some fun today with my RR's. Last year a did a blade delete on a Blue Denim Half Hawk, and it came out pretty cool. Today I took it apart again and put the secondary back in, but this time it was a surplus Schatt and Morgan caplifter blade. It came out pretty good. I give you the Schatt & Ryder Blue Denim Half Lifter.
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Rhinofly said:
Had some fun today with my RR's. Last year a did a blade delete on a Blue Denim Half Hawk, and it came out pretty cool. Today I took it apart again and put the secondary back in, but this time it was a surplus Schatt and Morgan caplifter blade. It came out pretty good. I give you the Schatt & Ryder Blue Denim Half Lifter.
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I really like it
 
Since the above "tater skin" is recently announced and not yet in stock, does anyone have an idea how long it might be before they are available?
 
Hope they are better than the WASP linerlock. The "lock" on mine snapped loose with the slightest pressure on the blade. IMHO a poorly designed lock. I cut the linerlock arm with my dremel cutting wheel; now the Wasp is a nice functional slip joint.
 
Rich S said:
Hope they are better than the WASP linerlock. The "lock" on mine snapped loose with the slightest pressure on the blade. IMHO a poorly designed lock. I cut the linerlock arm with my dremel cutting wheel; now the Wasp is a nice functional slip joint.
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If there’s a problem R Rich S I know who to contact. 🤔
Another thing, I really don’t see the need for a lock on a small traditional pocketknife.
 
joeradza said:
I really don’t see the need for a lock on a small traditional pocketknife.
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Agree with you 101%. I don't see the need for a blade lock on a slipjoint of any size, or a properly designed and constructed friction folder, for that matter. The company's lawyers probably do, but anyone who routinely uses them for cutting and slicing stuff in their daily lives probably see no use for a locking blade, either.

However, Schrade/Old Timer did make a single blade peanut, the "Mighty Mite", with a brass "Push to Release" tab just like the TL-29's screwdriver blade has.
Schrade/Old Timer also made the "Pal" (if I remember the name right) an identical but sans the blade lock version.
 
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