Haven't we seen this elsewhere???
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Question about the stockmans, and also a wider question about Rough Rider/Ryder stockmans in general:
Are the spey and sheepsfoot blades offset correctly? I recently received a Rough Rider sowbelly stockman where spey blade was offset to the left but the sheepsfoot was offset to the right. This means when they are on opposite ends of the knife, they will hit each other... doh! The "solution" was to excessively crink the sheepsfoot. I am wondering if this is a broader design issue for Rough Rider or if it's specific to the model I bought?
Any thoughts would be welcome!
I have three ... no ... five ... Rough Rider stockmans over 4 inch closed, and about the same number of 4 inch closed.
I had one of their 5 or 6 blade sow belly's but lost it when it fell out of my pocket while riding my (adult) trike, a couple years ago.
Looking at my RR1740 "Classic Carbon Steel" (4.25 inch closed), RR603 large (4.25 inch closed) "Old Yeller", stockman, RR1057 "A Stroke of Luck" large (4.25 inch closed) stockman, the Spey and Sheepsfoot are on opposite ends, and share a spring. The spey is not kinked. The sheepsfoot is, however, it does not contact the main clip point or the Spey blade.
The Spey blade comes close, but does not hit the liner.
I also have a second "A Stroke of Luck", and a 4.25 inch closed large 4.25 inch closed "Stoneworx" stockman at a friend's house in Florida. The blade layout on it are the same, and it has no blade rub, either.
My 4 inch closed RR1419 "Stoneworx" stockman has the same blade layout as the larger ones, above.
Again, the Spey and Sheepsfoot share a spring, and are on opposite sides.
The sheepsfoot is kinked, but does not hit the clip point main. The Spey Blade is again not kinked.
I had to thin the inside tip of the Spey Blade a hair to clear the sheepsfoot. It does not hit the liner. Note that the blade well of this 4 inch closed Stoneworx is maybe 4/32 inch narrower than the larger stockmans, because they used a slightly thinner center liner.
After thinning the tip of the Spey Blade (I'd guess less than 1/1000 inch) the pull dropped from "Gotta open the Sheepsfoot before the Spey Blade will move" to the same "4" to "5" "Buck 301ish" pull of the other blades.
The rub on the sheepsfoot was forcing it over against the liner, as well.
Looking at my Marbles MR432 D2 Sow Belly (closest I have to a Rough Rider Sow Belly) I don't know if the Rough Rider ans Marbles Sow Belly are made at the same factory.
The Spey and Sheepsfoot share a spring.
The Sheepsfoot is kinked, the Spey Blade isn't.
This one also needed a little work to make it suitable for carry. (I don't believe all are like my example. The guy doing the YouTube Review didn't have the problem.)
Again, I had to thin the inside tip of the Spey Blade, and slightly thin the pile side liner with my fine diamond sharpening stone. I also had to slightly round the leading edge/corner of the tang. (thank goodness for Dremel type rotary tool, diamond bits, and precision diamond files.)
Again, the Spey Blade pull dropped from "over 10" to the same "5" or so of the other blades, making it one I can (and do) carry.
On all of these, the Sheepsfoot is the center blade.
Without looking at yours, I can't say slightly thinning the inside tip of the Spey Blade, and possibly thinning the pile side liner and rounding the leading edge of the tang (you don't want a sharp 90° angle to start moving the backspring.) will cure your problem(s).
I think I might have spent all of 15 minutes each, on the Rough Rider Stoneworx, and Marbles D2 Sow Belly.
SMKW would have replaced them, of course. However, I am an impatient bas ... I mean ... S.O. ... I mean ... ugly old thing ... and didn't want to wait however long it would have taken postal to get the replacements to me.
Hope this helps/helped.
