RR Spikes

D

DustinHall

Joined
Dec 31, 2008
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I just picked up a few dozen RR spikes and I'm eager to forge them into knives. I know the low carbon in them will not make them great knives but, never the less, it will be cool. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone here could tell me how I should go about tempering them once quenched. What temp and for how long? Also, which would be better, brine or water quench? Thanks for any info.
 
Hi Friend,

As you mentioned, they're low carbon, thus tempering is a non issue with them. Just heat one of those buggars up and twist and pound the snot out of it. When you're done forging it, let it cool off and and file (or grind) and sand it up to suit you. You might then want to heat it back up and quench it in the hopes of getting some hardening accomplished, but don't expect much. It will quench in water without any risks. No need to temper it back as it won't get that hard. The main thing is to just have FUN!

All the best, Phil
 
Where does one find RR spikes? Other than along the tracks.;)

The RR tends to get a little persnickity when you try and mess with their toys...:D
 
Hey, that's pretty cool! 5/$10-11 isn't bad at all for something fun to fool with!
 
I walked the tracks today and found 46 of them. Nobody saw me. :cool:

Phil, I have read that they WILL harden (to an extent) but, with the .35-.40 carbon they will need to be fast quenched in water.
Tempering is to relieve stresses caused by the transformation from austenite to martensite, right? So why then would I not need to temper the spikes at all after hardening even if they are just low carbon? Stresses would still be present I would think? :confused:
 
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hay phil what about a supper quench, i heard that that will get them a little harder.
 
What's a supper quench, JT? Is that where you take your steel and quench it in a plate of lasagna? :p
 
the repair crews do not stop to pick up RR spikes that get dropped.
I have seen/picked up 4-6 new HC spikes in a single small pile. I picked up
half a 5 gallon bucket full walking a one mile section of newly repaired section.
Much like Dustin's experince.
 
I have get them at critical and quench them in water, it gets them kinda hard but the edge still wont last to long
 
Superquench does a great job on them. Just do a file test after HT and see for yourself. My neighbor uses one I made him to cut the twine on hay bales. Four years later he still has not had to re-sharpen it.
 
Hey Dustin,

I'm sure not the guy to ask metallurgical questions of. I'm just speaking from the limited experience of knocking up a few myself and helping a few dozen kids in my modest high school blacksmithing classes twist and pound them out too.

All the best, Phil
 
B Finnigan said:
Superquench does a great job on them. Just do a file test after HT and see for yourself. My neighbor uses one I made him to cut the twine on hay bales. Four years later he still has not had to re-sharpen it.
Click to expand...


Could you please explain this "superquench"? I've never heard of it.
 
Farmer Phil said:
Hey Dustin,

I'm sure not the guy to ask metallurgical questions of. I'm just speaking from the limited experience of knocking up a few myself and helping a few dozen kids in my modest high school blacksmithing classes twist and pound them out too.

All the best, Phil
Click to expand...

Well, I appreciate you sharing what your experience with me, Phil. :)
 
So I'm still confused on if or how I should TEMPER the spikes after I quench them. Ya know, you might be right about not tempering, Phil. I guess I'd rather have them as hard as they can be so they hold an edge better rather than sacrafice hardness for a little more strength. Then again, I wouldn't want that edge to chip either. Hm.

Anyone else feel free to discuss!

Edit: On the head of the spike are letters... about 1/3 of them are marked as HC X which I assume means high carbon. A few have an S on them. Dunno what that means. One has an R. ?. A few have just a C on them and the rest are unmarked. If anyone knows what these letters represent then let me know please. Thanks.
 
yea, my first forged knife was a RR spike in a BBQ :p
the "HC" spikes are supposed to be higher carbon. to me they seem to be a medium carbon steel. not very consistently though. the knife i made was quenched in plain cold water, no temper, and actually isnt half bad for edge holding. i wouldnt feel sorry for myself if i needed to depend on it. spike steel is better suited for hawks and hot punches/chisels in my opinion, but if you get lucky, some of them will hold an edge ok. and their just cool to have ha ha.
 
All good info.
RR spikes make great things. Google "Railroad Spike Projects" and you will find all kinds of projects for them (most in blacksmith sites). Frederick's crosses are a fun project,too.

As to Ht:
Quench in water or brine, and temper at 350F to relieve stress. A temper is recommended for any steel that is quenched.

If you are making decorative projects, and want them shiny and black, after forging and wire brushing them (when you are done with any more work) heat them to 700-900F. Brush them with a mix of beeswax and turpentine. It will smoke like crazy ( keep away from any flame....it will ignite). When the smoke slows down ,rub with an old rag, buffing to a shine.

Now, just because a file will skate doesn't mean that it is hard. There are several structures that form needle like shapes in steel, which will skate a file, but be Rc 48.
Kevin has had some posts on this.

Spikes make great hawks, letter opener gifts, BBQ tools,etc.
.......................and the prefect legs on a forge (thanks IG).
Here are some project links:

http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=railroad+spike+projects&ei=UTF-8&fr=hp-pvdt

http://metals.about.com/library/bl-project-plans16.htm
 
Hello:

My mentor/teacher has me making blades out of RR spikes, says they are a good way for me to learn hammer control. He heat treats them in cold salt water with some lye and soap thrown in as well...They don't get as hard as say 1060 but they do hold a OK edge the way he does them. He tells folks that they are "tool box" knives for rough work and sells a lot of them to model RR folks...They aren't all that bad if you use the right ones and heat treat them right

Oh the HC on them means "higher caron" than the other spikes, at least that's what my friend that works on the RR lines tells me...What they are exactly he doesn't know...he saiys that varies from company to company..he is going to try to find out...

Jason
 
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